Best Clear Resin for Locomotive Cab glass?

[ednadolski]

Can anyone recommend a clear printing resin that works well for locomotive cab glass?  My understanding is that there are some (most?) resins that can frost or yellow over, but are there any better options?

I'm thinking of making some kind or replacements for the factory glass, that will fit better into the cab walls, and not have other annoyances like cast-in  windshield wiper 'details'.

Another concern is visible print lines (even at 8k), but presumably those could be sanded out w/ a superfine grit paper, and then re-coated with a clear gloss from the airbrush.

TIA,
Ed

[Lemosteam]

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=56642.0

Take a look here.

@Jesse6669 has had some good luck too, but I am not sure which resin he uses.

[Peachymike]

I haven’t had a lot of luck with printing windows in any clear materials, as you noted the surface is never smooth enough and needs finished and clear coated. This can be tedious and difficult, especially if doing multiples. A couple things I have done and had some success were:
Print the part, finish it and then make a silicone rubber mold. Pour the clear in the mold and shoot it with a UV lamp, the part comes out very clear.
Lately I have been messing with the idea of vacuum forming thin p.e.t (.005-.007”) over a 3d printed block. Works really well for things like curved truck windshield etc. where the part is fairly flat. I am still trying to get a one piece insert for the whole cab but not quite there yet.
I find the any of the clears I have tried will yellow if you cure them too long. Mixing a very little bit of transparent blue into the clear has worked worked as it tends to go an ever so pale green that looks plausible (look at the edge of a piece of plate glass).
Just my two cents worth.

[Jesse6669]

@Jesse6669 has had some good luck too, but I am not sure which resin he uses.

I've done Voxelab Clear and then an 80-20 mix of Voxelab Clear and Phrozen Onyx Impact Plus which yields a smokey gray.  I've successfully printed both--The Onyx mix is ok for me since most of my cars (1:450 or 1:300 scale) don't have interiors and the smoky clear looks good, plus the Onyx makes the parts more flexible and easier to work with.  The clear by itself is ok, and pretty darn transparent.  I never had to sand it or anything.  Interesting how these macro shots (those are 1" squares) show some lines and scratches but in "real life" they look smooth as glass. [Edit] I think those lines/scratches are actually from the back of the raft, just coming through since it's transparent.

[ Guests cannot view attachments ] Voxelab Clear

[ Guests cannot view attachments ] Voxelab Clear/Onyx 80-20 mix

[peteski]

It would be interesting to know if all those resins eventually yellow from the natural UV exposure.  If not, those would come in handy for my other hobby (model cars) to make headlight lenses ano other "glass" (in RTV molds, not 3-D printed).