Working with large decals

[thomasjmdavis]

Working with large decals-
I am planning to put a large decal sign on the side of a building- the decal approximately 4" wide x 5.5" tall.  Looking for recommendations/best practices when working with a decal this big. Previous experience says that air bubbles will be the major issue, but even getting one that size off the paper without stretching/wrinkling might be a challenge.  Any advice is welcome.

[peteski]

That is quite large.  Is the building's wall smooth, or is it brick (with mortar lines)? Also is the wall flat, or there are angles/protrusions in it?

One possibility would be to cut the decal into smaller pieces and apply each piece separately.

While I have never tried to apply decal that large (will such large decal even stay in one piece without tearing?), I would make sure that there is plenty of water on the wall as the decal is slid onto it from its backing paper.  I would also mix some decal setting solution into that water.

[nickelplate759]

No experience working with decals that large, but some advice from working with somewhat smaller decals (that fit on N-scale rolling stock).

1.  Have spare decals on hand.  You'll very likely ruin more than one (I sure would)
2. large decals can be challenging to slide off of the backing paper.  You'll need to soak them longer - but not TOO long or the glue will wash off.
3. use plenty of liquid (distilled water, maybe with MicroSet mixed in) on the surface before the decal goes on. 
4.  Expect bubbles, and don't try and force every last one out on the first try.
5.  Different vendors' decals have different working properties.    Experiment with some decals you don't care about before you get to working with the good stuff.
6.  Don't be afraid to carefully cut the decal into multiple pieces to help it apply smoothly.

[dem34]

Make sure the surface is dampened before application. The decal should be just dampened on its sheet, it will release over time. Place the large decal with its carrier close as possible to where you want it, once you feel it release. Very slowly slide the decal down a small amount then apply pressure. Then carefully pull the carrier sheet in the opposite direction, this will deposit the decal without finagling it loose without a sheet, with the prepared surface there won't be a huge amount of resistance to miving it, once close, blot the decal carefully with tissue/paper towel and use the preferred setting solution as usual. Usually what I do with larger HO decals.

[thomasjmdavis]

Thanks for all the replies so far

The decal is one of my own creation, so in worst case scenario, I can print as many as I need.

That is quite large.  Is the building's wall smooth, or is it brick (with mortar lines)? Also is the wall flat, or there are angles/protrusions in it?

It is a brick wall with mortar lines (N scale Architect brick sheet, the mortar lines a very fine. I think the prototype wall may have been filled with mortar or stucco in the area painted, so I am considering using some plastic putty to simulate that. 

On the several suggestions to piece the decals- that is plan B.  I have printed the decal 2 ways- one with a color background (which will go over a white painted wall) with all the lettering and artwork in place. Any attempt to piece it will result either in overlaps (lines that will be darker where the background color is double thick) or gaps between separate pieces.  So, my preference is to do the sign in one piece.

However, if that fails, I will move on to plan B, in which I paint the wall in the background color and can cut out individual bits and apply them as if I was doing lettering and logos on an O scale freight car.  The disadvantages are that (1) I will need to re-print parts of the decal on white decal paper (not a big deal, except it will delay the project because I am out of white decal paper) and (2) I will have to get everything in just the right place.

[Lemosteam]

Make sure the surface is dampened before application. The decal should be just dampened on its sheet, it will release over time. Place the large decal with its carrier close as possible to where you want it, once you feel it release. Very slowly slide the decal down a small amount then apply pressure. Then carefully pull the carrier sheet in the opposite direction, this will deposit the decal without finagling it loose without a sheet, with the prepared surface there won't be a huge amount of resistance to moving it, once close, blot the decal carefully with tissue/paper towel and use the preferred setting solution as usual. Usually what I do with larger HO decals.

This.  I have not applied a decal this large, but I have applied 1" (N) stripes this long. Put a puddle of water on the surface first.  I always wet the surface first.  This will help eliminate bubbles. I don't like to use my fingers as sometimes the decal wants to stick to skin, but a makeup applicator instead to hold it in place as you slide out the backing.

Also agree to flll in the brick if possible, but the Micro Sol, or whatgever you use, will draw it down.

[Sokramiketes]

Is this a Lee sign?!?!?

[thomasjmdavis]

Is this a Lee sign?!?!?

Only if it works.  Otherwise...it's a yellow wall...

[Sokramiketes]

Excellent, can't wait to see your success!

[Tom L]

Cool!
Perhaps something like this?

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

Tom L
Wellington CO

[thomasjmdavis]

Well...it did not turn out perfectly, but I have "proof of concept" and the decal application itself was surprisingly effective.

Given the advice here on keeping everything wet... I decided the simplest thing to do was to do the transfer in the water.  So...I put lukewarn filtered water into a glass baking dish. Brushed the back of the decal with water, THEN soaked it for a minute. Gave the wall a generous coat of Micro-set and put the wall itself into the "bath" and slid the decal onto the wall while both were immersed in a 1/4 inch of water. The placement was within a couple millimeters. Lifted it out of the water, keeping it level so nothing would move (much). Very minor adjustments out of the water.  No airbubbles I could find (having done the transfer in the water.  There were, however, a few places where water was collected under the decal. I worked these out with a brush. And this is where I ran into a problem, not with the application, but with the decal. These were home made on my inkjet printer. Apparently, when I sealed it, I should have done a couple more coats. When I brushed out the surface, ink came off in places.  Everything was fine in the water bath, but the brush (by which time, it had been wet for several minutes) damaged the surface.  You see this particularly on the "large Lee" and the "overall man" (file names on my computer for those elements).

If I were modeling the late 60s, I would leave it as it is, or maybe distress it a little more.  But the photo I have of Dearborn in 1956, shows it with a fair amount of weathering on the yellow surface, with the lettering and figures appearing to be recently touched up.  So....I think I may try again with a re-print of the decal.  The brick bleeds through the surface more than is apparent in the photo- so I think that, plus a little weathering, will give just the look I want.

[wazzou]

You can probably carefully touch those blemishes up with some dry-brushed paint of the right colors.

[thomasjmdavis]

Here is the touched up version. I was able to use a clear back version of "overall man" and the "Lee" lettering directly over the original decal.  Have a line, that I think is washed out ink, that appeared at the edge of the top decal, but should be able to touch that up.  As @wazzou suggested, I did some brush touch up of the yellow in areas that had gone white.  I like the way the brick bleeds through in areas- happened on the real one, too.  Scratching my head on HOW this happened. I put down a layer of white primer under the decal, but some brick is pretty evident. Maybe the Micro-set ate through the primer to bring out some color?  Sorry about the flare in the upper right.  Hoping this time I get the photo so it isn't sideways.

Now, on to getting the building assembled, and finding some roof details.

[wazzou]

Terrific.

[peteski]

Looks great Thomas!
Now all it needs is a coat of Dullcote.   
But be careful if this decal is home made. Dullcote could make the ink or toner run.  Use mist coats first.