So I have this idea and wonder if it can be built.

[turbowhiz]

So even with DC operation disabled the headlights will illuminate? I never tried that, and I'm surprised.  Seems counter-intuitive. I thought "no DC" meant "no DC". or no motor, sound or lights.

Yup. Works entirely fine. Proven again this evening at least with ESU Loksound 5 and dinotrax DN163whatever, since I've not checked this in years. And numerous other decoders I worked with in HO scale years and years ago.

YOU MUST DISABLE DC OPERATION!! Otherwise, logically, the loco will just run off.... (CV 29 Bit 2 = 0 ). This is a good idea as a best practice regardless, depending on your use case. DCC always? Always disable DC operation.

Its somewhat logical if you have a low level understanding of how DCC works. I worked with it down to the packet level a very long time ago, although its no longer at all my focus for at least 20+ years.

[Lemosteam]

Yup. Works entirely fine. Proven again this evening at least with ESU Loksound 5 and dinotrax DN163whatever, since I've not checked this in years. And numerous other decoders I worked with in HO scale years and years ago.

YOU MUST DISABLE DC OPERATION!! Otherwise, logically, the loco will just run off.... (CV 29 Bit 2 = 0 ). This is a good idea as a best practice regardless, depending on your use case. DCC always? Always disable DC operation.

Its somewhat logical if you have a low level understanding of how DCC works. I worked with it down to the packet level a very long time ago, although its no longer at all my focus for at least 20+ years.

Interesting. I may not need anything at all then. Just need to reset a CV, sounds like.

[turbowhiz]

Interesting. I may not need anything at all then. Just need to reset a CV, sounds like.

Just make sure you test it!!! CV 29 programming can be tricky especially if you're not using a tool like decoderpro, so you'll definitely want to make sure you got it right before putting something on your photo section. Especially if you're going naked without "protection".

[peteski]

Its somewhat logical if you have a low level understanding of how DCC works. I worked with it down to the packet level a very long time ago, although its no longer at all my focus for at least 20+ years.

I do understand how DCC works. At least I think I do.    The microcontroller on the decoder actually controls all the outputs (motor, functions, and sound if any).  So I thought with DCC disabled the microcontroller would just simply not turn on any of those functions.  There are also CVs on decoders (like ESU) for enabling or disabling   operation of specific outputs (while running on DC with DC enabled).

[Lemosteam]

Just make sure you test it!!! CV 29 programming can be tricky especially if you're not using a tool like decoderpro, so you'll definitely want to make sure you got it right before putting something on your photo section. Especially if you're going naked without "protection".

Was thinking just now that not all of my locomotives have4 a DCC decoder so the 9V battery trick won't work for those without a decoder.  This also flies in the face of my original post.   

[nscaler711]

So my question is why use DCC at all if its mostly for a stand alone photo ops set up? I feel like whatever battery source youd use should be fine and a few switches you could use to power which ever track you want. Possibly even use reed switches for individual lights.
If you absolutely want to use DCC, try the Bachmann EZ Command (Old version.) they can be found relatively cheaply for under $100 and can control up to 9 decoders. The transformer (wall wort) has a output of 16v @ 1000mA which is also doable with some battery packs. But that's about the cheapest option unless you find ancient MRC controllers...

Also CV29 = 34 for 4 digit addressing, 128 speed steps, NO analog running, normal direction of travel and CVs 2,5,6 for basic speed table.

Though if you subtract the DCC part all together, you may be able to just set up a Arduino to control whatever lighting functions you want. Granted... I have never played with one, I just know they are capable devices.
I apologize If I am not helpful I suppose I may not 100% understand your reasoning.

[Lemosteam]

So my question is why use DCC at all if its mostly for a stand alone photo ops set up? I feel like whatever battery source youd use should be fine and a few switches you could use to power which ever track you want. Possibly even use reed switches for individual lights.
If you absolutely want to use DCC, try the Bachmann EZ Command (Old version.) they can be found relatively cheaply for under $100 and can control up to 9 decoders. The transformer (wall wort) has a output of 16v @ 1000mA which is also doable with some battery packs. But that's about the cheapest option unless you find ancient MRC controllers...

Also CV29 = 34 for 4 digit addressing, 128 speed steps, NO analog running, normal direction of travel and CVs 2,5,6 for basic speed table.

Though if you subtract the DCC part all together, you may be able to just set up a Arduino to control whatever lighting functions you want. Granted... I have never played with one, I just know they are capable devices.
I apologize If I am not helpful I suppose I may not 100% understand your reasoning.

Several issues for photographing trains on this module:



Primarily I will be doing night shots, so I need the headlight and passenger cars to be lit for effect.

I don't want anything to move-especially accidentally.  Module is only 60" long with no protection at either end, and I may photograph meets (east/west mains)

DC Engine lights are dependent upon Voltage- the higher the voltage, the brighter the light, so for now I will only be able to use my DCC engines until I get decoders in them.

I don't want to fake anything using Photoshop.

I'm a cheap bastard and don't have a lot of expendable train money, so just go buy this or buy that is not always an option for me.  If I can accomplish the goal in under $100, I can manage that or just a straight power supply will work, at least for DCC as proven above.

[pedro]

If you were to stay close to your car while out on your remote photo shoot, is there any reason you couldn’t just use a power inverter plugged into your car’s 12V outlet and run a plug-in DCC controller like the Power Cab off an extension cord?  A cheap basic inverter can be had for +/- $40. That’s assuming your car is not already equipped with 110V outlets? Both my 2010 VW and 2019 Ram have 110V outlets already…


Also, Dewalt and Milwaukee (maybe others) make tool battery-powered inverters but they are relatively spendy if you’re not already invested in their respective large capacity batteries. Just a thought.

[learmoia]

Sorry that I wasted my time posting my message. Best of luck with your project.   
Curious what other brilliant DCC ideas others will come up with.

Wait, this was an actual Peteski post.. (not one of the post monkeys)

I vote for the 9v battery idea..

Otherwise, If you have something like an NCE Power cab, or Zephyr, when you want to do a photo shoot, just bring that long with your module.

~Ian

[peteski]

John, for added security why can't you just add Plexiglas barriers at each end. They only have to be about 1" tall and clear.

You also mentioned that you have DC-powered locos.  How are you going to solve the problem of those not moving while the headlights are on? 

My popcorn bucket is still full, and I'm enjoying watching the progress of this thread. 

[Lemosteam]

John, for added security why can't you just add Plexiglas barriers at each end. They only have to be about 1" tall and clear.

I can do that, but recall this mates to my main layout and I really don't want to be adding and removing them over every time I go out.  These will be taken, hopefully, during a late summer evening lightning storm.  I'm actually comfortable reprogramming my DCC locos to have the CV block DC running.

You also mentioned that you have DC-powered locos.  How are you going to solve the problem of those not moving while the headlights are on? 

See reply 21.

My popcorn bucket is still full, and I'm enjoying watching the progress of this thread. 

[rodsup9000]

 For DC locos, you could insulate the motor tabs so the motor doesn't get power and the headlight would

[peteski]

See reply 21.

Allrigthy then - DC locos are out. One fewer puzzle to solve. 

[nscaler711]

Primarily I will be doing night shots, so I need the headlight and passenger cars to be lit for effect.

I don't want anything to move-especially accidentally.  Module is only 60" long with no protection at either end, and I may photograph meets (east/west mains)

DC Engine lights are dependent upon Voltage- the higher the voltage, the brighter the light, so for now I will only be able to use my DCC engines until I get decoders in them.

I don't want to fake anything using Photoshop.

I'm a cheap bastard and don't have a lot of expendable train money, so just go buy this or buy that is not always an option for me.  If I can accomplish the goal in under $100, I can manage that or just a straight power supply will work, at least for DCC as proven above.

Ah I see, Yeah I feel the cheap bastard part too.
So If you only use DCC engines, definitely set CV29 to 34 it should shut off DC mode on the decoders. How ever some decoders may not light up if they are not already set to on before hand, and I am not sure on what brands do that.
So with that mind, a straight power supply of 9-12V would be best at 1amp (1000mA is 1 amp) should be enough to power all lights that you want.
As far as the DC loco photo sessions, you may just have to isolate the motor tabs and you should be fine, if they are anything like a standard kato with the tabs that come down from the board you should be able to slide a piece of tape or paper for no residue. - sorry for broken record here.

Check out these batteries as an option for powering the module too:
https://www.amazon.com/Mighty-Max-Battery-Verizon-PX12072-HG/dp/B00OZMW232/
You should be able to find that style battery at most home improvement store and possibly Wal-Fart.... er.. Wal-Mart...
They are rechargeable as well. granted youll need the dedicated charger for it... I or others can find one I'm sure.