Pavonia Diesel Shop TTRAK Module

[lock4244]

I vote for Option A, visually more appealing, looks like a servicing facility. Option be looks like an N scale model shoehorned into way too small a space.

[wm3798]

I'm in favor of option A with the following caveats.

You MUST build the approach module so as to stay off the Dr Hotballs Sh!t List, (as he makes a very valid point), and...

Make the module a rhombus.  Or a pentagon, or some other asymmetrical shape front to back.  The track geometry will obviously parallel the table, so why not make the module so it's edge does not?  Maybe work in that long gentle curve to the left across the front of the three modules you'll need.

The way I look at it, the way Dave usually sets up the tables, there's 6 to 8 inches in front of the module to play with, and maybe another 6 to 8 behind it before you foul the wiring channel or the next run of modules.  Take what's yours, baby.  Ain't nobody else claiming it!

Lee

[Blazeman]

You're pretty far along with this, so not suggesting a change.

Question:  Did you consider the RDG Darby Creek facility viewable from Industrial Hwy south of the airport?  An adjacent module could have been utilized to portray the bridge over the creek.

http://www.readingmodeler.info/index.php/forum/taking-a-ride-on-the-real-reading/685-darby-creek-engine-terminal

[Ed Kapuscinski]

You're pretty far along with this, so not suggesting a change.

Question:  Did you consider the RDG Darby Creek facility viewable from Industrial Hwy south of the airport?  An adjacent module could have been utilized to portray the bridge over the creek.

http://www.readingmodeler.info/index.php/forum/taking-a-ride-on-the-real-reading/685-darby-creek-engine-terminal

Oh man, I love that facility. I remember driving by the big empty field where it USED to be when I was a kid.
But I have great memories of Pavonia, so it wins.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I decided I didn't want to use one of my foam topped modules since I didn't need and significant below grade terrain, so I built my first plywood top module.

I realized halfway through it that the smart move is recessing the leg bolt blocks makes transportation easier, but I didn't undo the other half. Oh well, it's a journey...

Not too bad for an hours work. Plus, I have two more frame "kits" ready to go.

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[Scottl]

How do you like the Ryobi nailer?  I've been eyeing one of those.

[crrcoal]

How do you like the Ryobi nailer?  I've been eyeing one of those.

I've got one and have used it around the house and more recently on a Free-Mon module. Zero complaints!

[Scottl]

Thanks.  It would be handy and I have lots of batteries/tools in that system.

[Lemosteam]

How do you like the Ryobi nailer?  I've been eyeing one of those.

I have both the brad nailer and the stapler. I got the stapler for thin materials that the brad nailer might bury too deep, allowing the ply to pop off, so I use the stapler with penetration below surface.

[Chris333]

I have an air powered pin nailer that was like $12 bucks and has never had a problem.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

How do you like the Ryobi nailer?  I've been eyeing one of those.

Get it!

One of the things I LOVE about being a greenie is that it's so much less risk on getting tools that I don't NEED.

I needed it for a minor job, and have found plenty of uses for it after. Well worth it for me.

I've had a few issues, but they're all almost certainly user error.

[wm3798]

I'm thinking about mass producing some corner blocks that contain the T nut and adjustable foot assembly. 
I'm also working on some sort of alignment method with a pit and socket that allows me to put feet on one end of each of my modules, to minimize the futzing when assembling a long unit of them.

Presently it's just a mind game, but once I start putting hammer to nail, I'll post up some pics.

Lee

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I'm thinking about mass producing some corner blocks that contain the T nut and adjustable foot assembly. 

Some thoughts: 2x2 is great for this. Cut it to 1" lengths, then bore a 5/16" hole down the center.

Insert these (don't use T nuts, they suck): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KT43MU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ALWAYS use 1/4-20 hardware to keep your logistics simple, and if you want to get REALLY fancy, print up some of these to put on your 1.5" bolts to make your life easier when adjusting:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/aPuranZVUUf

I'm also working on some sort of alignment method with a pit and socket that allows me to put feet on one end of each of my modules, to minimize the futzing when assembling a long unit of them.

So like, one bolt per module, like an articulated spine car? I dig that!

I know how I'd go about that, using my 3D printer, but you can probably do something with just wood too. Neat idea!

[wm3798]

My adjustable feet are going to all be adjustable from the top of the module using an Allen wrench.
I'll have to start building something so I can photograph how I do it.

I'm thinking more like a right triangle out of 1x so it not only holds the foot, it also holds the corner true and square.

For the end of module bit, I'm thinking maybe a spring loaded ball catch.  I dunno.  I'll go stare into my numerous bins of surplus hardware.  I'm sure I'll come up with something.

Lee

[Ed Kapuscinski]

My adjustable feet are going to all be adjustable from the top of the module using an Allen wrench.
I'll have to start building something so I can photograph how I do it.

I'm thinking more like a right triangle out of 1x so it not only holds the foot, it also holds the corner true and square.

For the end of module bit, I'm thinking maybe a spring loaded ball catch.  I dunno.  I'll go stare into my numerous bins of surplus hardware.  I'm sure I'll come up with something.

Lee

Ah, yeah. I can't get down with the allen wrench thing. I just don't want to put those extra holes in places they don't belong.