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I have a project that requires #10s. Maybe I'll give em a try. Worst comes to worst I can always just make it on a paper template. But to be perfectly honest if the proper technique is being followed there shouldn't be too much heat transfer to the jig itself. I know a few crazies out there that get a few turnouts out of FDM printed Jigs.
I have a couple, and ran into issues with the brand of PCB ties it would accept. The 2nd concern was the area of the frog, you have to be very careful of placement of the frog as it has more play than that of the Fast track jigs I have.
I had some clover house that would not work and some ones that I cut (they fit the Fast Track jigs), just were a bit too wide for these.
Trying to understand why the N version is priced the same as the HO when material and processing should be less to make.
I bought one of the BlueRidgetrax jigs and could not use it. I bought the N scale Code 55 #5 turnout jig and the cnc cutting was not very accurate. It would not allow the base of the rail to seat into the jig. I tried both Micro Engineering and Atlas code 55 that I striped out of some flex track. I used a diamond cutter in my Dremel to widen all of the track lines. Also the ties spaces were cut too deep (I used Clover House pcb ties). When I placed the pcb ties in the jig the rail would not seat down far enough to touch the ties to be soldered. I had to fill each tie slot with a strip of styrene to raise up the tie enough so I could solder it. Once I got all of that done, I soldered a turnout to find that the frog alignment was off and the turnout would not function.I will say that the frog helper part did work and I used that to solder the frogs of other turnouts I built. All in all, I would not recommend the BlueRidgeTrax product.
Anyone ever use those voltscutter PCB ties? Looks cool with them pre-gapped and with throwbar holes already drilled.