soldering iron suggestions

[ATSF_Ron]

Forum friends, I'm in need of a new soldering iron.  I have a decent one for most soldering jobs, but I need a pencil tip version to solder up close tolerance items on ME turnouts.  Specifically, I'm trying to power the frogs from underneath, and the clearance between ties on the bottom won't allow for the one I have.  I see there's a variable wattage one by Schneider listed on Harbor Freight's web site.  Anyone have experience with this one?  Sorry, but no model # is listed in the ad.  It's $44.  The last one I bought was a crappy $15 job which is now in a landfill, so ya get what ya pay for!

[GGNInNScale]

I have used YiHua, very nice control of heat.  I have the 936A model now.  5 different tips.  Heats fast and you can get into a truck with a bronze tab and solder to it without damage.

[ATSF_Ron]

Thanks! I’ll take a look at one.👍🏻

[robert3985]

As far as soldering irons go, I've done a bit of research into soldering stations and the A#1, Top-of-the-Line station in terms of versatility, reliability, accuracy and robustness is the Hakko FX888D-23BY (Blue and Yellow), which runs around $125 and allows a tip temperature between 392degF and 842degF and is rated at 75W.  Has a fast heat-up time of about 1minute, and has exceptional quality construction.  Interchangeable tips are available from Hakko or aftermarket sources.  The only potential problem with it is that there are quite a few counterfeit ones out there, so get it at a certified Hakko dealer.

Second choice is the Weller WE 1010 which is going for around $110 right now, and allows a tip temperature between 300degF and 850degF and is rated at 70W.  Has a fast heat-up time of around 15 seconds and has toolless tip changeability and is more of a conventional design than the Hakko.

Both get excellent ratings, but for my money, I'd go with the Hakko.

Frankly, for my iron and doing model railroad track work, my old Realistic 30W iron with interchangeable tips, a simple stand with a wet sponge has worked very well for me over the years in making hundreds of PCB turnouts in Code70, Code55 and Code40, and hand-laying Code40 track, as well as soldering 22AWG solid copper feeders to frogs, rails and PCB ties.

I also use Superior Supersafe No.30 Soldering Flux and 96/40 Tin/Silver silver-bearing solder (which is 5 to 6 times stronger than Tin/Lead electrical solder) and has better conductivity also.  Using both of these products is using the VERY BEST flux and solder for track work and I highly recommend buying both if you're gonna be doing a lot of track/feeder soldering.

Have fun!

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[rodsup9000]

 I have a Hakko that Bob mentioned and it's great for working on stuff at the workbench.
 I also have a Weller 30 watt with lot of different tips, that is my go to soldering iron for working on layout. I've had the Weller for over 25 years. The good Weller 30 watt (blue handle) runs just over $50.
 

[wazzou]

I have the Weller WES51 Soldering Station pictured.  I've really liked it.

[JMaurer1]

I have a Weller soldering station (among several others...okay, maybe 10...plus...can you really ever have too many soldering irons?). More important than which iron you have is if the tip has been properly 'tinned'. While most tips are supposed to be pre-tinned, that doesn't mean that they have been done right or well. I take one of my other irons and dip the new irons tip into flux and with the new iron cold, tin the tip just like I would a wire I'm about to solder...and get as much tinned as possible.

As for the Harbor Freight iron, that looks very similar to what I have (humm, HF copying name brand stuff and selling it at a cheaper price...who would have thought?). It looks good to me and for under $50, I would probably get it. But then again, knowing the proper way to solder is more important than the tool you use. The best iron in the world won't do a good job if you don't know how to use it.   

[ATSF_Ron]

Lots of good recommendations for me to consider here, guys.  I don't want to spend a ton of money on one, but I do need one with interchangeable tips.  Silver solder is definitely the way to go.  My large roll ran out, so I guess it's off to Amazon to try and find more.  That roll lasted me 10 years or more!

[samusi01]

I have the Hakko unit Bob mentioned, it's a good piece of equipment. The reason I purchased it was I started with their FX600 iron and adding the station allowed me to have common tips. The 888 stays on the desk and is used for precise work and the 600 floats around the layout as necessary.

[freescopesdad]

I have this Weller WES51 as well. Works great.

[ridinshotgun]

I've got the Hakko FX888D and I love it for bench work.  I am making a portable box that I can carry it with me to shows in case it is needed but I also have a butane soldering iron that has no cords that I can use on sceniced modules that need repair.

[JMaurer1]

Silver solder! Stay away from that. It uses acid flux and unless you neutralize the acid after you are done soldering...well, it's acid.

[peteski]

Silver bearing solder can be purchased as solid-core (no flux). Sometimes they include a tube of acid flux separately. That is how my silver solder is.
While silver solder is stronger than the 63/37 electronic solder is, it also has a higher melting temperature (which will require higher tip temperature and/or longer dwell time) which can melt the plastic ties.

Bob is successfully using silver solder, but he uses if for hand-laid track where he is soldering rail to PC Board ties. I figured I would mention that.

EDIT: Added word in bold.

[robert3985]

Silver solder can be purchased as solid-core (no flux). Sometimes they include a tube of acid flux separately. That is how my silver solder is.
While silver solder is stronger than the 63/37 electronic solder is, it also has a higher melting temperature (which will require higher tip temperature and/or longer dwell time) which can melt the plastic ties.

Bob is successfully using silver solder, but he uses if for hand-laid track where he is soldering rail to PC Board ties. I figured I would mention that.

@peteski Actually, I am not using "silver solder" but I am using "silver-bearing" solder that is 96% Tin/4% Silver (96/4), and its melting temperature is only a few degrees F higher than regular tin/lead solder.

Of course, I am using Superior No.30 Supersafe Soldering Flux also, which is the very best soldering flux for model train rails as well as brass/bronze/nickel silver and copper projects and is self-neutralizing.

I have no problems whatsoever melting plastic ties, either with laying my own Rail Craft/Micro Engineering Code55 flex nor with laying other brands on other layouts than mine in Code80, Code70, Code55 and Code40.

As far as I am concerned, there is no downside to using 96/4 silver-bearing solder, and it works great with just my old 35W Realistic iron when I need to tin something.  Nowadays, I'm using my American Beauty 250W Resistance Soldering Station for 95% of my trackwork, including soldering my under-the-rails 22AWG solid copper feeders on each and every piece of current-carrying rail.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[peteski]

Yes, that was a mistake. I fixed it.  I suspect that this is also what JMaurer1 meant.  If there is a silver solder, its melting temperature would be higher than what solder iron can produce.

Good to know that using elevated soldering temperatures does nto cause any plastic tie melting.