Marine Drive Overpass Diorama

[Van Horne]

I was more than impressed when you showed us the bones of this at the last op session! It might be helpful to non-residents if you put a screen shot from Google Earth on here so everyone can see just how crazy you are!

Dave

[BCR 570]

Thank you all.

It might be helpful to non-residents if you put a screen shot from Google Earth on here so everyone can see just how crazy you are!

I will have to see if I can figure out how to do that.

Tim

[BCR 570]

One of the factors driving the size of the diorama was the ability to fit it into my car for transport.  With one of the rear seats folded down, it fits between the front seats and the tailgate:






Now back at the Makers Lab at school where I will start gluing down the layers.


Tim

[wm3798]

Looks like a job for a laser cutter...  Kudos on doing it all by hand!
Lee

[BCR 570]

Looks like a job for a laser cutter...  Kudos on doing it all by hand!

Yes that might have been an option.  Oh well I went old school . . .

Tim

[BCR 570]

Cardboard Contours (cont.)
I was unsure which adhesive to use for gluing the first layer of cardboard to the styrofoam.  (The PL300 was recommended to me for the styrofoam, and LePage's white glue for the cardboard.)  Before leaving for a short holiday I glued a scrap piece of cardboard to a scrap piece of styrofoam with the white glue in hopes of saving another purchase of PL300.  When I returned several days later, the bond was very strong (wouldnt be able to get it apart):




With that settled, I laid down white glue for the first layer of cardboard, which will represent 18 metres above sea level:




I inserted nails in the pin holes which will be used to align each layer with the one beneath it.  I then weighted the cardboard down with weights and left this first layer to set up overnight:




Tomorrow I will start on the remaining layers.

Tim

[BCR 570]

Cardboard Contours (cont.)
I have been thinking ahead to the step step of how to secure a plaster scenic base to the cardboard.  I am a little concerned that the moisture in the plaster could adversely affect the cardboard.  Today I stacked a few scrap pieces and applied some drywall patching plaster on the slope as a trial.  This material appears to have a lower moisture content and is designed to adhere to drywall.  I used it with considerable success on my gravel pit so thought I would try it out here:




I will check on it tomorrow to see how well it has dried and adhered to the cardboard.


The first layer of cardboard has adhered very well to the styrofoam base, so on to the contour stacking.  I used nails in the pin holes to align each layer of cardboard with the previous layer:




Prior to gluing I traced the contour outline of the layer to be added to the previous one to indicate where the glue should go / not go:




The first three layers for 18, 19 and 20 metres above sea level after gluing and weighting:




Tim

[BCR 570]

Cardboard Contours (cont.)
The patching plaster looks like it might work for filling in the slope between the contour levels; very little cracking or shrinkage, and nothing a second layer won't fix:




Here is a view of the first three contour layers after removing the weights:




Continuing with subsequent layers:




Using nails to align the pin holes in each layer:




Next five layers representing 21 to 25 metres above sea level glued now in place:




Eleven more layers to go . . .

Tim

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Have you tried lightweight spackle? I think it might be better than the plaster.

[BCR 570]

Have you tried lightweight spackle? I think it might be better than the plaster.

No, not familiar with that product; tell me more.

Tim

[chuck geiger]

This is way past next level....

[garethashenden]

No, not familiar with that product; tell me more.

Tim

The ultimate scenery material! Its not as wet and saggy as plaster, and its much lighter. I don't know what its made from, but it can be described as spreadable foam. Its official use is filling small holes and cracks in walls before painting (which is what I'm doing today) but it is a wonderful compliment to extruded foam scenery. I have a small flexible artist's pallet knife that I use to spread it with. If you put it on thick it can take a few days to dry, but nail holes in walls are ready in less than an hour.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/DAP-Fast-N-Final-32-oz-Interior-Exterior-White-Spackling/3033261 (Other brands are available)

[BCR 570]

Thank you; the product I am testing is described as "spackling and patching compound" so not sure how different it is from what you are suggesting.




Tim

[packers#1]

That looks like a lightweight spackle compound to me, must just be called something different by that brand/north of the border.

[garethashenden]

The main difference between spackle and lightweight spackle is how it shrinks as it dries. Lightweight basically doesn't shrink. It might a little on a very large application, but that's not what its really intended for. Standard spackle will shrink a bit as you encountered. The same brand seems to have a Dyna Patch Light with a greenish coloring, as opposed to the gold here. It might be worth getting a small container and comparing them.