KATO AC&F 70t Hopper Body Mount Couplers

[thumpernickle]

I would like to body mount MTL True Scale couplers to my KATO AC&F 70t covered hoppers. As I inspect the car frame, there is not a lot of room for the coupler box and screw. Has anyone attempted to body mount couplers on these cars? Any tricks or tips to achieve this?

[rodsup9000]

  This is how I mounted some 1023's it on some of the old Kato 2 bay hopper I have. Took the car apart, drill and taped the hole where the dimple is and mounted the coupler.
Had to cut the excess length off the screw as it was too long.


 

[Tom L]

I’ve done a bunch of these using 1015s.  Same way, disassemble, drill and tap, then cut screw flush.  With the 1015s I always use a flat, tapered head brass screw (instead of the MT screws) and recess the coupler box so the screw head is flush.  Since the depth of the hole is minimal, I also put just a bit of adhesive on to top of the coupler box. Something like Aileen’s tacky glue or PL6000 adhesive.  Keeps things from moving side to side and loosening up because the screw doesn’t have alot of bite.

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Tom L
Wellington CO

[bigdawgks]

I also installed 1023s on mine. They work fine even with BMLA trucks (although the truck pins aren't a perfect fit). Like all hoppers the screws need to be cut down to minimize the amount they stick out the top.

[thumpernickle]

I’ve done a bunch of these using 1015s.  Same way, disassemble, drill and tap, then cut screw flush.  With the 1015s I always use a flat, tapered head brass screw (instead of the MT screws) and recess the coupler box so the screw head is flush.  Since the depth of the hole is minimal, I also put just a bit of adhesive on to top of the coupler box. Something like Aileen’s tacky glue or PL6000 adhesive.  Keeps things from moving side to side and loosening up because the screw doesn’t have alot of bite.

(Attachment Link)

Tom L
Wellington CO

I liked your recessed screws into the coupler box. Do you have a source for the screws? And the countersink you used to recess the head into the box.

[Tom L]

I liked your recessed screws into the coupler box. Do you have a source for the screws? And the countersink you used to recess the head into the box.

I have a pretty good stash of Walthers 00-90 brass flatheads I bought years ago at a train show, so I don’t have a source currently.  I did buy a bag of the somewhat Metric equivalent (is it M1.2?) on EBay last year. They are the black one in the picture.  They were cheap, even shipped from China, they are black and the heads are slightly smaller so easier to recess.  Down side is they are steel, so are harder to cut and file. I prefer the brass screws.

I recess the box by reaming out the hole just deep enough for the flathead to sit about flush using a 3/32” drill bit with a point that is about the same as the taper of the screw.  I only use the countersink bit shown in the photo because it is easier to grasp and twist by hand than a plain bit and the point of the bit is a good match for the taper of the screws.

Here’s the set up!

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Tom L
Wellington CO

[nkalanaga]

Tom:  I've been doing the same thing for years with my 1025s.  I use a standard 3/32 bit, simply because I have one, but the idea is the same.  Most of the time they don't actually need counter-sinking, as the box is thinner than the 1015s, but getting rid of the visible screw head is an advantage.  And I've had some wheelsets, especially 36 inch sets, where the axle is thick enough that MT screws don't work.

[thumpernickle]

Thanks to everyone for the tips and ideas. Especially excited about countersinking the screws.

[Sokramiketes]

I have a pretty good stash of Walthers 00-90 brass flatheads I bought years ago at a train show, so I don’t have a source currently.  I did buy a bag of the somewhat Metric equivalent (is it M1.2?) on EBay last year. They are the black one in the picture.  They were cheap, even shipped from China, they are black and the heads are slightly smaller so easier to recess.  Down side is they are steel, so are harder to cut and file. I prefer the brass screws.

I recess the box by reaming out the hole just deep enough for the flathead to sit about flush using a 3/32” drill bit with a point that is about the same as the taper of the screw.  I only use the countersink bit shown in the photo because it is easier to grasp and twist by hand than a plain bit and the point of the bit is a good match for the taper of the screws.

Here’s the set up!

(Attachment Link)

Tom L
Wellington CO

Agree with the brass being easier to trim to length than steel, but the upside of the M1.2's include phillips drive (easier to install) and cheap enough to buy 3mm, 4mm, and 5mm lengths for whatever the need is.

Since the M1.2's have a head that fits without drilling out the MTL box, I think it's worth saving two steps to have a couple varieties on hand.  YMMV. 

[thumpernickle]

Agree with the brass being easier to trim to length than steel, but the upside of the M1.2's include phillips drive (easier to install) and cheap enough to buy 3mm, 4mm, and 5mm lengths for whatever the need is.

Since the M1.2's have a head that fits without drilling out the MTL box, I think it's worth saving two steps to have a couple varieties on hand.  YMMV.

Quick question on these M1.2 screws. Are you saying they don’t need to be counted sunk because they will sit flush with counter sinking them? Or is the head flat? Is there a specific name for the screw head you used?

[Tom L]

Agree with the brass being easier to trim to length than steel, but the upside of the M1.2's include phillips drive (easier to install) and cheap enough to buy 3mm, 4mm, and 5mm lengths for whatever the need is.

Since the M1.2's have a head that fits without drilling out the MTL box, I think it's worth saving two steps to have a couple varieties on hand.  YMMV.

Excellent point.  I am so set in my “brass” routine of buying the longer ones and cutting, that it didn’t really occur to me to just get a bunch of different lengths! Maybe it’s because I’ve already done the majority of my cars and just do one every once in a while.

Tom L
Wellington CO

[cjm413]

I used MTL 903/905 Z/Nn3 couplers

[thumpernickle]

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I found some M1.2 screws in various lengths and it worked perfectly.