Fixing an ME turnout throwbar

[mike_lawyer]

Hi everyone,

I had a ME #6 turnout thrownbar that broke over the holiday weekend.  As an aside, I wish ME made their turnout throwbar plastic tougher than their regular ties.  In any event, I have some PCB ties from Fast Tracks, but have always found it difficult to get everything aligned.  First, the PCB ties are thinner than the ME turnout ties, so you have to shim underneath the PCB ties when installing.  Second, the regular Fast Tracks PCB ties are not very wide.  I would like a wider PCB tie there for drilling a decent size hole for a tortoise switch machine throwbar. 

Does anyone have a suggestion for wider PCB ties?

[Bill H]

Mike:
I use standard width pcb ties for throwbars. I drill a 020 hole, and then use 020 wire or 015 spliced onto the end of the regular tortoise wire with a bit of tubing and JBWeld. Never had a single problem with that approach, but I am sure others will have other options for you. FWIW, I also silver solder the points to the throwbar. Note however that I use code 40 exclusively which has a bit more flex than code 55.

Kind regards,
Bill

[ristooch]

You might try Clover House HO ties. I suppose you could use Fast Tracks HO ties also.

I have used Clover House HO ties for throw bars when I built my own turnouts. Since you will be retrofitting into the ME turnout, you might need to sand them to a narrow enough width to slide within the space of the old throw bar, but at least you might have more drilling width than a standard n-scale PCB tie.

[Dwight in Toronto]

The fret “framing” that surrounds the FastTracks ties is substantially wider than the ties themselves, and can easily be trimmed/cut/filed/belt-sanded etc to any desired dimensions. 

[robert3985]

In the past, if I've had to repair an ME #6's throwbar, I just use a regular N-scale PCB tie-sized tie.  No need in my experience for a wider throwbar since the point rail heels have sliding/rotary hinges, which alleviates any torque that may occur at the point rail toes.

The throwbar being not as thick as the ME ties isn't a problem at all, in fact, it's preferable since you don't want the bottom of it sliding on anything.

One thing to do is offset the gap you cut in the PCB throwbar so that it's not centered, but drill your switch motor lever hole in the middle.  This lessens any weakening of the PCB throwbar at the lever hole by keeping it as thick as possible between two layers of copper cladding.

When I've felt the need for more strength on an ME PCB replacement throwbar, I fashion small, shallow "Z" plates out of .003" shim brass, and solder them to both the railfoot of the point rail toe and the top of the PCB tie.

I use "silver bearing" solder 96/4 tin/silver (not "silver solder") and the best self-neutralizing flux made (Superior No.30 Supersafe Soldering Flux), both of which can be purchased here: https://www.hnflux.com/page22.html  This silver-bearing solder melts just a few degrees hotter than lead/tin electrical solder, but is 5 to 6 times stronger, making it ideal for track work.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[mike_lawyer]

In the past, if I've had to repair an ME #6's throwbar, I just use a regular N-scale PCB tie-sized tie.  No need in my experience for a wider throwbar since the point rail heels have sliding/rotary hinges, which alleviates any torque that may occur at the point rail toes.

The throwbar being not as thick as the ME ties isn't a problem at all, in fact, it's preferable since you don't want the bottom of it sliding on anything.

One thing to do is offset the gap you cut in the PCB throwbar so that it's not centered, but drill your switch motor lever hole in the middle.  This lessens any weakening of the PCB throwbar at the lever hole by keeping it as thick as possible between two layers of copper cladding.

When I've felt the need for more strength on an ME PCB replacement throwbar, I fashion small, shallow "Z" plates out of .003" shim brass, and solder them to both the railfoot of the point rail toe and the top of the PCB tie.

I use "silver bearing" solder 96/4 tin/silver (not "silver solder") and the best self-neutralizing flux made (Superior No.30 Supersafe Soldering Flux), both of which can be purchased here: https://www.hnflux.com/page22.html  This silver-bearing solder melts just a few degrees hotter than lead/tin electrical solder, but is 5 to 6 times stronger, making it ideal for track work.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

Thanks Bob, I have some of that silver solder, and you are right, it is much stronger than the standard solder sold by Fast Tracks. 

I just wish there were some really good commercially made turnouts in N scale.  I like ME turnouts but have found the throwbars to be weak and will sometimes break.

That is the one thing I envy about HO, they have some great turnout options between Peco and the new Walthers turnout line.

[signalmaintainer]

The fret “framing” that surrounds the FastTracks ties is substantially wider than the ties themselves, and can easily be trimmed/cut/filed/belt-sanded etc to any desired dimensions.

For the win! Thanks, Dwight! I know that's a solution I'll put to use.