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Made from new molds?The last ones were not that old so an expensive investment for…?
The only thing that was really grinding on me was how they had the rails off center from the tie centerSo when they put 3 sections together to make a full length of flex track they inverted the center section so it would jump out that there was a noticeable stagger.
They want to add #8's and #10's turnouts (no promises though) to their line too, but don't know if, or how soon that will happen.
Micro Engineering retooled the tie molds about 10 years ago on both the code 55 and code 40 due to the excessive flash issue and loss of detail on their original Railcraft molds. But as far as I know there have only been two versions of the code 55, the Railcraft and that ME revision. You can tell them apart by scrutinizing on the tie spike features, as there are very few double spikes per plate on the later molds… and also that offset tie feature. On the code 40 ME added tie plates and a thicker depth tie similar to the code 55 - and again less double spike detail… with the tie offset (I want to say the tie lengths were reduced by 6-12” on the 40 …if not on both styles also).Apparently the code 40 now uses 9” tie sections and the 55 uses 12” sections to comprise a 3’ stickIm guessing others have been sold old stock if they are not aware of the mold changes… or just never noticed!?!The offset tie issue has been discussed here by many before. Reinhardtjr and Pedro discuss it here too:https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=54555.15Edit- link
I just wish there was an easier way to make frogs other than by hand. Investment casting seems too difficult/expensive.Ed
I really hope they start making some #8 and #10 turnouts. I really like their #6 turnouts, but some larger number turnouts would be nice to have as well.
Athabasca Scale Models used to sell etched frogs and diamonds for code 55. I have 2 packages of the #7, #9, and #11 frogs along with a package of diamonds for a 45 degree crossing That I'll be using soon.
Rodney: I can't see any of your pictures, which might be my browser. However, I listed the source code, and found the image file URLs, from ImageShack. Trying to open them directly failed, so I downloaded and saved the files. None of my image viewing programs can open them either!
How well do they work in practice? I always wondered, since the flangeway is so shallow. Maybe 12 thou on a 25 thou half-etch?