Dremel cutting bits

[jjb62556]

I have a couple older Kato SD40's I need to put decoders in. I would like to put them in the fuel tanks, but I have no milling machine.
What kind of cutting bit do I need for my Dremel and do they make them? I Know they have them for soft metals, but I think the Kato frames are harder than those bits will cut....Jim

[nickelplate759]

I have cut into Kato frames with carbide cutting wheels on my Dremel.  It tends to yield sloppy results, at least when I do it.

If you try this, wear eye protection, as sooner or later you will shatter a cutting wheel.

[peteski]

Kato's "white metal" doesn't seem to be any harder than other brand's metal chassis.  It is a likely zinc-based Zamak-type die-cast metal.  There is likely some aluminum in the alloy.

It is rather soft compared to metals like steel or even iron.  If you want to machine it using mill-type bits then HSS or carbide will work. 

George mentioned using carbide cutting wheels and breaking them from time to time.  So George is not milling/grinding it but cutting it.  I never used a cutoff wheels for doing any serious frame metal removal, but in my experience those cutoff wheels get clogged up with the metal and they stop cutting.
I use standard Dremel abrasive cutoff wheels. I didn't even know that carbide ones existed.

I agree that wearing eye protection is a must.

If you have a vise, you could clamp the chassis in the vise then cut it using fine-tooth hacksaw.  I have a metal cutting band-saw and it cuts the Kato metal frames easily.

[nickelplate759]

Sorry, I used the wrong terminology.  I'm using the same abrasive cutoff wheels that Peteski is using (not carbide!)

[Dwight in Toronto]

A few months ago, I bought one of those small, bench-top, combination sanding machines (1” belt + 5” disk).  I bought it solely to try making hand-built N scale turnouts (using Fast Tracks paper templates), and needed something to remove material and shape/taper the point- and stock-rails.  This $65 sander was lower cost than Fast Tracks hand-held filing tool, and is, of course, far more versatile.

Case in point - I used it just recently to “machine” (ie - sand down) the rear deck of an Atlas GP38-2 so as to accomodate a 9 x 16 speaker/housing.  The result was nigh near as clean, level and smooth as I’ve seen from proper milling machines.  And oh yeah - the sander has worked beautifully in helping to fabricate those turnouts; I’ve built six #10’s so far and, with powered frogs, they all perform better than any RTR turnouts I’ve ever owned. 

[basementcalling]

A few months ago, I bought one of those small, bench-top, combination sanding machines (1” belt + 5” disk).  I bought it solely to try making hand-built N scale turnouts (using Fast Tracks paper templates), and needed something to remove material and shape/taper the point- and stock-rails.  This $65 sander was lower cost than Fast Tracks hand-held filing tool, and is, of course, far more versatile.

Case in point - I used it just recently to “machine” (ie - sand down) the rear deck of an Atlas GP38-2 so as to accomodate a 9 x 16 speaker/housing.  The result was nigh near as clean, level and smooth as I’ve seen from proper milling machines.  And oh yeah - the sander has worked beautifully in helping to fabricate those turnouts; I’ve built six #10’s so far and, with powered frogs, they all perform better than any RTR turnouts I’ve ever owned.

Take some photos next time you make a turnout that way. Sounds interesting enough to want to see what you are doing.

[wazzou]

I bought one of those benchtop combo sanders, a Craftsman, (I think mine’s closer to 3-6”) probably 15 years ago and used it to sand the bolsters on over 300 MT Cars, specifically why I bought it.
I’ve used it to quickly sand the draft angles on DPM walls.
I have planned to use it in some aspects of turnout building as well.

[lock4244]

A few months ago, I bought one of those small, bench-top, combination sanding machines (1” belt + 5” disk).  I bought it solely to try making hand-built N scale turnouts (using Fast Tracks paper templates), and needed something to remove material and shape/taper the point- and stock-rails.  This $65 sander was lower cost than Fast Tracks hand-held filing tool, and is, of course, far more versatile.

Case in point - I used it just recently to “machine” (ie - sand down) the rear deck of an Atlas GP38-2 so as to accomodate a 9 x 16 speaker/housing.  The result was nigh near as clean, level and smooth as I’ve seen from proper milling machines.  And oh yeah - the sander has worked beautifully in helping to fabricate those turnouts; I’ve built six #10’s so far and, with powered frogs, they all perform better than any RTR turnouts I’ve ever owned.

I modified a number of Atlas B23/30-7's for Briggs Models M420's with a bench-top grinder, think it had a pair of 8" wheels. Different tool, same task, same quick and excellent results. Made quick work of material removal and was able to be fairly precise.

[dem34]

I just use a standard mill file for work like that, mark out the spot to be removed in masking tape and grind back and forth until I remove what I need.

[Southern1970]

I used a dremel high speed cutter #194 on a Kato GP30 frame.  I have a Kato SD40 (non dcc) to do next as well. [ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[robert3985]

If I didn't have a mill, I'd probably do the vice and hacksaw trick, and clean up with a Dremel and/or files.

But, I have a mill and boy does it make modifying frames easy!

Got a lot of DCC installs to do on locomotives that need chassis modifications?  A little Sherline is well worth the money IMHO.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[NtheBasement]

I watched some people converting N scale locos at a meet once.  The guy gripped the frame very firmly in one hand and had a Dremel with a bull nosed bit, maybe 1/8"" diam, in the other.  Not sure what the bit was made of.  I was impressed that he was doing it free hand, had his hands pushed together hard for control, no chattering.  I had mine done by Aztec which is no help to you now.

[Lemosteam]

I have a couple older Kato SD40's I need to put decoders in. I would like to put them in the fuel tanks, but I have no milling machine.
What kind of cutting bit do I need for my Dremel and do they make them? I Know they have them for soft metals, but I think the Kato frames are harder than those bits will cut....Jim

If you decide to do this manually with a Dremel, MAKE SURE the bits are solid carbide.  The frames will eat high speed steel like nobody's biz.

And wear gloves- they will get REALLY hot.

[jjb62556]

I ordered some carbide ones on line today...

[robert3985]

You might consider some diamond grit bits too.  They don't load up as easily as even Carbide bits.

Cheerio!

Bob Gilmore