Programming and cleaning track power source

[ridinshotgun]

So I am planning on building a portable programming and cleaning track that I can take with me to shows.  I have the programming side worked out with a DPDT switch to select either my sprog or lokprogrammer.

However, for the cleaning track I want to save some packing space and instead of carting a railpower pack around I want to use a wall wart to provide direct power to the cleaning track.  I have a 12v wall wart from an old LED light.  Is there any reason that I can't use it direct wired to the cleaning track?  I there anything that I need to put inline between the power source and the track for safety reasons?

[C855B]

Generic 12V wall warts in my experience are loosey-goosey about the actual voltage. Typically the devices they plug into handle any voltage regulation; I've seen a couple with output as high as 16V. Just measure first before powering a decoder with it. As far as safety goes, a 2A fuse should keep you out of trouble, and have spares with you.

[peteski]

If this is for DCC locomotives, you would have to have the alternate power source (DC) enabled in CV29 for those locos to run from DC.
If your programming setup has a DCC throttle capabilities (the ESU LokProgrammer can also behave like a DCC throttle to test run the model on the programming track), then why not just  use that capability for cleaning your loco wheels?

If you want to use a wall-wart, I would use a one that produces regulated DC 12V (not the cheap ones which are not regulated).  But you have to make sure that the DC power has absolutely not possibility of connecting the the track while your programming setup is connected to the track.  DPDT switch (with break-before-make contacts, which lucky most DPDT switches are) would be a safe way to prevent accidents.

You would end up with 2 DPDT switches. One would select DC-cleaning or DCC programming, and then when the first switch is in the DCC programming position, the second DPDT switch would select Sprog or LokProgrammer

But to me just using the LokProgrammer to clean the wheels seems like the  simplest solution.

[ridinshotgun]

Generic 12V wall warts in my experience are loosey-goosey about the actual voltage. Typically the devices they plug into handle any voltage regulation; I've seen a couple with output as high as 16V. Just measure first before powering a decoder with it. As far as safety goes, a 2A fuse should keep you out of trouble, and have spares with you.

Yeah I had two wall warts one was putting out almost 17v the other is putting out 12V. I know which one I won't be using!

[C855B]

... But you have to make sure that the DC power has absolutely no possibility of connecting the the track while your programming setup is connected to the track. ...

That, too.   

[ridinshotgun]

If this is for DCC locomotives, you would have to have the alternate power source (DC) enabled in CV29 for those locos to run from DC.
If your programming setup has a DCC throttle capabilities (the ESU LokProgrammer can also behave like a DCC throttle to test run the model on the programming track), then why not just  use that capability for cleaning your loco wheels?

If you want to use a wall-wart, I would use a one that produces regulated DC 12V (not the cheap ones which are not regulated).  But you have to make sure that the DC power has absolutely not possibility of connecting the the track while your programming setup is connected to the track.  DPDT switch (with break-before-make contacts, which lucky most DPDT switches are) would be a safe way to prevent accidents.

You would end up with 2 DPDT switches. One would select DC-cleaning or DCC programming, and then when the first switch is in the DCC programming position, the second DPDT switch would select Sprog or LokProgrammer

But to me just using the LokProgrammer to clean the wheels seems like the  simplest solution.

Yes this isn't my first rodeo with CV29, every loco I have is made to run on DC in addition to DCC but thanks.  (except for one set of locos that have old lokpilots that don't have that ability.  Which reminds me I need to rip them out and replace them with a newer version)

I find it much simpler to have constant power to a dedicated track that I can just put my loco on to and have it go to town to clean that wheels instead of having to bring up a throttle, throw a switch and mess with buttons.  I don't want complicated with more switches.. Simple is better since I will not be the only one using it at shows.

[peteski]

I find it much simpler to have constant power to a dedicated track that I can just put my loco on to and have it go to town to clean that wheels instead of having to bring up a throttle, throw a switch and mess with buttons.  I don't want complicated with more switches.. Simple is better since I will not be the only one using it at shows.

Hmmm . . . Complicated with more switches?  Using the Lokprogrammer for cleaning locos you would only have a single DPDT switch selecting Sprog or LokProgrammer. If you want to add DC cleaning capability to the same track, you will need to add the second DPDT switch.  That's more, not less switches.  But yes, you would also have to get the LokProgrammer into the driving mode, and select loco address.

There are many regulated 12V DC wall-warts out there. Electronic Goldmine has few. The All Electronic probably has a few too (all for short money). Then there is amazon.

[ridinshotgun]

Hmmm . . . Complicated with more switches?  Using the Lokprogrammer for cleaning locos you would only have a single DPDT switch selecting Sprog or LokProgrammer. If you want to add DC cleaning capability to the same track, you will need to add the second DPDT switch.  That's more, not less switches.  But yes, you would also have to get the LokProgrammer into the driving mode, and select loco address.

There are many regulated 12V DC wall-warts out there. Electronic Goldmine has few. The All Electronic probably has a few too (all for short money). Then there is amazon.

Sorry you assumed it is on the same track it is not.  It is duel track.  One for programming and the second for cleaning.  So yes my set up is simpler to use, especially for those who have a hard time figuring out exactly how to change the direction of travel in their locos.   

One switch on the programming track.  Sprog or Lokprogrammer.  Stop making things complicated before I down vote you!   

[peteski]

One switch on the programming track.  Sprog or Lokprogrammer.  Stop making things complicated before I down vote you!   

Hey, that can be a 2-way street!    

https://theelectronicgoldmine.com/collections/adapters/products/g21027a
https://theelectronicgoldmine.com/collections/adapters/products/g26132
https://theelectronicgoldmine.com/collections/adapters/products/g26836

[ridinshotgun]

Hey, that can be a 2-way street!    

https://theelectronicgoldmine.com/collections/adapters/products/g21027a
https://theelectronicgoldmine.com/collections/adapters/products/g26132
https://theelectronicgoldmine.com/collections/adapters/products/g26836

Since you know where to find stuff point me in the direction of some quick disconnecting fittings that are smaller than powerpole connections I can use to connect the programming unit to the switch and the wart to the cleaning track.  Something for 24g wire.  I saw a set up one time that used micro barrel connectors but for the life of me I can't find the darn things.  Everything I come up with is a prewired connector like for use on decoders or some kind of computer connection fitting.  Just searching for micro connectors doesn't do it.

[C855B]

Molex Standard .062" connectors. It's what I relied on before PowerPoles became a thing. Used to be a piece of cake to get at Radio Shack, but you know the story there. Mouser and Digikey, though Amazon might be worth searching.

[ridinshotgun]

Yeah I have some molex connectors but I wish I could find those mini barrel connectors.  Simple one small barrel per wire and disconnect was easy.  The molex all seem to come in pairs with a larger housing.  I have some of those tamiya molex type connectors so I will probably go with them if I can't find those barrel connectors I saw.

[MK]

Kato connectors (which are "mini-Tamyia"s)?

[Bill H]

Try Wago nuts/connectors. I use them paired with ferrules all the time in areas that I change wiring setups for testing.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0LRTXZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kind regards,
Bill

[wvgca]

you may want something with adjustable voltage, cleaning under twelve volt will be pretty fast, imo