0 Members and 3 Guests are viewing this topic.
Started with some castingsThen hand-carved plaster to blend them togetherA wash of alcohol and inkspray painted on three (3) different diluted shades of tanThen a final wash of alcohol and ink to bring out the shadows and blend it together
Hmmm. In all the examples I have ever dealt with in this type of design, the contact strips are loose and are kept in place by the sideframes/bottom gear cover unti. Once that is removed the contact strips are loose and will not support the axles. They are free to be removed.If you glue the new sideframes to the contact strips, what retains the contact strips keeping them tight against the gear case?
The contact strips plug onto mounting pins on the side of the gearbox.Tim
Started with some castings
Dealt with my first raw 3D print items, as in, still on the support structures. These are from Baldylox Designs. AgCom took delivery of 3 Walinga style bulk feed trailers. A lot of careful snipping of support structures to free the items. I managed to only break of 1 mudflap on the trailer, and 3 wheel mounts on the conveyor
No modeling from me this week.Finally got back to Songkhla for the first time in 5 years. Mother in law didn't tell us just how bad the flooding was. When we checked our house, there was mildew everywhere. Ended up hiring a cleaning service. They are about 2/3 done now after 5 hours. It's a lot better but here are some highlights:2 of the 4 mini-splits are broken and will probably need replacing. A 3rd is struggling to keep below 25c at night.Monsoon rain caused a bit of damage - looks like water flowed though all the outlets on one side of the house, leaving water marks. Unsure if these circuits are damaged.The two dimmer circuits ARE damaged and heard and audible "pop" when I tried to turn on one. The other was dead from the start. A few of the high hats lol like there is water pooled in them.The wiring was embedded in the masonry at the time we built the house (the other option is exposed conduit about a meter high). This means any repair will require partial demo of each wall and ceiling. I'm hoping we can just ignore the dimmer circuits and everything else is working.House now smells like mildew and ammonia.
With all of the supplies I ordered arriving, it was time to try scratch building one of the pier building sides. I will be basing them on Pier 38 & 40 since I was able to get some street view pics as well as a drawing of the pier structure. So here is Pier 40 today at 104 years old and vacant for over a decade. The concrete and the structure are in bad shape. Since I am building in the 40's / 50's, that means the pier was only 20-30 years old so the concrete was in much better shape. I made some slight mods during the build and forgot to increase the height of the tackle rig. Since this one os going on the far left and wont be in full view because of Baily's Warehouse, I'm ok with this one. Next one will have the rig a 1/4in taller.
That's hot *****!I just realized, you NEED to find a way to work John's Roast Pork into the layout.https://www.google.com/maps/@39.9211538,-75.1452304,3a,75y,112.27h,80.7t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1s2ozeH0ce9CiAQn0hiTksSg!2e0!7i16384!8i8192"Since 1930". That's the former B&O right behind it.
It's too bad they didn't just make a whole ZWT side frame part that snaps into the gear case. Gluing to Delern had always been an issue for me.
That gave me some time to channel my inner "Hand Tool Rescue" and rescue a car that I've had since I was a kid. This is an old Con-Cor car that I had weathered and started lowering 25+ years ago. I realized it could still be part of the fleet so I finished the job of lowering, replaced the old trucks, and dropped it on the layout. Is it an ESMC car? No. But will it make a nice train-filler and bit of nostalgia? You betcha.