BLI BigBoys both In-Stock and arriving soon

[peteski]

And, I agree about the smoke possibly adding to the ambiance in a photo or close-in video.

IMO, Photoshoping smoke after taking the photo of a smoke-free model would look more realistic than the "real" N scale smoke.

[robert3985]

IMO, Photoshoping smoke after taking the photo of a smoke-free model would look more realistic than the "real" N scale smoke.

Yeah...you're probably right about that, but I thought a slow exposure would blur the "real" smoke some, and maybe make it more realistic.

However, after disassembling one of these and seeing how nice the stacks look without the bright brass smoke generators making themselves so very obvious....and also looking at how easy removing the smoke generator unit looks to be...I'm pretty sure mine will be removed and any "smoke" in future photos will be shopped.

Compared to the shallow stacks on the Athearn Big Boy with that fugly screw in the rear stack, the BLI Big Boy's stack, and included folded and unfolded stack "smoke hood", really look great without the brassy smoke generators.

Photo (1) - BLI Big Boy Smoke Hood:


Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[Ed Kapuscinski]

FYI, if anyone is interested, MBK has 10% off locomotives right now and these apply:
https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/trains/locomotives/#/filter:custom_scale:N

[mmagliaro]

The first thing that jumps out at me is that circular mold mark right at the center "V".  It looks like it is raised above the surrounding surfaces.
And the surfaces themselves look slightly rough, almost like a 3D print surface.   That drawbar/slot system has to be smooth like a mirror - smooth like the glossy surfaces on a Microtrains truck bolster - for it to work.  And I wouldn't bother with any kind of lube, graphite or otherwise.  This problem has to be solved mechanically.  The surfaces have to be so smooth that the pin cannot possibly hang up in there no matter what angle, no matter what forces are on it.

Perhaps somebody with a BLI engine that is NOT exhibiting this problem would post a super-close-up of that same drawbar area, so we can compare them?  This might be a manufacturing tolerance or QA problem.  Maybe that raised circular area isn't that pronounced on all of them.

I'm still trying to figure out why my tender keeps derailing and I'm starting to think it has something to do with this rather byzantine drawbar situation -



What I'm seeing is that the cab will swing way out when the loco enters a curve (and note that my tightest curve is 19" radius). Then, when it re-enters a straight and the cab swings back over the rails, there is an audible click accompanied by a noticeable jump in the tender. At this point the tender will more often than not run crooked with one of its wheels derailed until it hits my double x-over and then rerails itself. So, it seems like that drawbar is getting a bit hung up in the curve-to-straight transition, building up pressure, and then breaking loose with excessive force.

Anybody else seeing this? Anybody else actually running one of these things?

Thanks,
-Mark

[MK]

FYI, if anyone is interested, MBK has 10% off locomotives right now and these apply:
https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/trains/locomotives/#/filter:custom_scale:N

I think the sale ended yesterday, 1/29.

But I think the 10% off Train World sale is ending today.  But 10% does not apply to new release or pre-order.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I think the sale ended yesterday, 1/29.

But I think the 10% off Train World sale is ending today.  But 10% does not apply to new release or pre-order.

Lol. Would you believe the banner was still up when I posted that?

[MK]

Yes, I would.  Sometimes companies don't get around to it until the next day unless they have automatic scripts that remove it a stroke after midnight.  But I'm sure if you try to order the 10% off code won't work.

Go to Amherst.  If you look carefully you can get real bargains like Atlas ESU Loksound diesels for $125-$130 or Bachmann SC-44 for $225 or 50% off BLI list prices.  So many stuff, so little cash!   

[Nato]

     "WOO KA CHOO" my BLI No. 4023 Big Boy arrived today, fast shipping from Hog Trainz. It is painted and numbered for the locomotive that is on the locomotive in Keneflick Park in Omaha, Nebraska. Like all these models it has "Paragon Sound" which  can be broadcast through speakers under a layout (who needs this feature) has a pipet in the packaging for applying Fleishman Light Oil if I had any and wanted a smoker. I will not be able to operate/run mine until the March Ogden Train Show on the Wasatch N Scale Layout. Yes I still have a KATO 4014 with LOC Sound on order to pull excursion trains . Nate Goodman (Nato). Salt Lake, Utah.

[robert3985]

The first thing that jumps out at me is that circular mold mark right at the center "V".  It looks like it is raised above the surrounding surfaces.
And the surfaces themselves look slightly rough, almost like a 3D print surface.   That drawbar/slot system has to be smooth like a mirror - smooth like the glossy surfaces on a Microtrains truck bolster - for it to work.  And I wouldn't bother with any kind of lube, graphite or otherwise.  This problem has to be solved mechanically.  The surfaces have to be so smooth that the pin cannot possibly hang up in there no matter what angle, no matter what forces are on it.

Perhaps somebody with a BLI engine that is NOT exhibiting this problem would post a super-close-up of that same drawbar area, so we can compare them?  This might be a manufacturing tolerance or QA problem.  Maybe that raised circular area isn't that pronounced on all of them.

The "circular mold mark" on mine is actually slightly indented.  I don't have any problems on my test trackage which consists of two 6' Code55 tracks, a programming track, a hand-laid #6 dead-frog turnout made to "tight" NMRA standards, and an old ME #6 that's also a dead frog.  Both my customer's 4014 and my own 4012 roll through this crossover smooth as silk.

By the way, I checked the gauge on every wheelset on both BLI Big Boys, and every wheelset was spot-on...the second N-scale engine I've ever had that was correctly gauged straight out of the box like all of my Kato FEF-3's.

Photo (1) - BLI #4014's trailing truck & drawbar configuration:


Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[Jbub]

The "circular mold mark" on mine is actually slightly indented.  I don't have any problems on my test trackage which consists of two 6' Code55 tracks, a programming track, a hand-laid #6 dead-frog turnout made to "tight" NMRA standards, and an old ME #6 that's also a dead frog.  Both my customer's 4014 and my own 4012 roll through this crossover smooth as silk.

By the way, I checked the gauge on every wheelset on both BLI Big Boys, and every wheelset was spot-on...the second N-scale engine I've ever had that was correctly gauged straight out of the box like all of my Kato FEF-3's.

Photo (1) - BLI #4014's trailing truck & drawbar configuration:


Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

As I'm looking at this photo, I noticed that the lead truck on the tender doesn't pivot on the mounting screw but slides back and forth. I wonder if Mark's issue was something to do with that screw being over tightened or if there was some flashing on the post.

[u18b]

The "circular mold mark" on mine is actually slightly indented.  I don't have any problems on my test trackage which consists of two 6' Code55 tracks, a programming track, a hand-laid #6 dead-frog turnout made to "tight" NMRA standards, and an old ME #6 that's also a dead frog.  Both my customer's 4014 and my own 4012 roll through this crossover smooth as silk.

By the way, I checked the gauge on every wheelset on both BLI Big Boys, and every wheelset was spot-on...the second N-scale engine I've ever had that was correctly gauged straight out of the box like all of my Kato FEF-3's.

Photo (1) - BLI #4014's trailing truck & drawbar configuration:



Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

I don't own one of these, but that design is the same as Bachmann used on the Acela set.  Mold mark and flash caused the same thing. 
Unscrew those screws and pull the drawbar cover off and look at what you find.  I'd be willing to bet there is one or more of the following:
flash
mold line
mold dimple

Also check the drawbar itself.
Any imperfection could cause this hangup.

I just saw Spookshow's scathing review (ouch!!!     )- which caused me to look at this thread again.

[C855B]

... I just saw Spookshow's scathing review (ouch!!!     ) ...

You made me look - "ouch!!!" is right! Wow. Mark was apparently so bummed by his RSD-15 experience that he was armed for bear with the Big Boy, and he found it.

Mechanical design issues with the Big Boy aside, BLI really needs to get off their custom sound decoder jag. ~$500 for something you can't run seriously? They're not helping their own cause.

[wcfn100]

That looks like a typical "Kinematic" design for drawbars or coupler mounts.

What's 'typical' about it.  I only know of the Kato ones, and this isn't designed like that.

I wish I could see with the cover plate removed to show the pivot that is forcing the drawbar to straighten out when pulled? There could also be some binding under that plate.

Jason

[oakcreekco]

A well thought out, engineered, and problem free design.

It can be done.

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[peteski]

What's 'typical' about it.  I only know of the Kato ones, and this isn't designed like that.
Jason

YEs, it is atypical for US prototype models, but used on most currently produced European prototypes. Even on their short 2-axle freigth cars.  I buy quite a bit of those so I'm familiar with the design.

Generically "Kinematic"  means that the coupler (or a drawbar) is mounted in such a way that allows it to extend as it swings to the sides (so the close coupled models can safely traverse tight curves).  This is accomplished by having the coupler arm (or drawbar) follow a gull-wing shape oping in the floor (just like it is clearly visible in the BLI Big Boy model).

In US prototype models, as Ron mentioned, I think the first use of the kinematic coupling system one was Bachmann Acela couplers.  Then Kato used it on some of their passenger cars. The FVM Hiawatha passenger cars are another example, as is the BLI Pennsy heavyweight car.  I dont' recall any more, but here might be others too.