Missing part -- Model Power 4-6-2

[Bangorboy]

I've been out of the hobby for several years because of family needs.  Didn't even know Model Power had shut down.  Now I'm getting back into the trains.
I had a Model Power 4-6-2 Pacific I bought new about 9 or 10 years ago.  I had never run it.  I gave it as a gift for Christmas, and we ran it on Christmas Day.  I love it!  The valve gear action was especially impressive with all its moving parts.   It ran beautifully and was as smooth as any loco I've ever run.  Until.
We were backing it through a switch, and just after it cleared the points it suddenly flopped over on its side.  Turns out, the eccentric rod had come loose from the  reversing mechanism at the front, had pivoted down from the drive wheel and poked into the roadbed.  It pole vaulted that side of the engine upward, causing it to tip.
I've contacted the hobby shop, but they quit doing repairs several years ago.  (Repair person left for other employment.)  I can't find any sites on the internet to get parts or service.
Any chance any of you might have a dead 4-6-2 that could yield a part?  I don't know if it's a pin or a screw.  Haven't examined it under a magnifier yet.  But it's the part that holds the forward end of the eccentric rod to the reversing link.
The particulars of the locomotive:Model Power 4-6-2 PacificPart No:  87409 (The whole Locomotive with tender)Railroad: L&N. if that makes any difference.  I know some railroads had different parts and some models reflect the variants.  Probably not in this case, but want to cover all questions.

I've seen you guys on the site come up with some of the most obscure parts and supplies, so I hope you can help me find a way to fix this.
And I'm glad to be getting back onto the Railwire and see what you all are doing.  Feels like coming home.
Bill

[JMaurer1]

Here's a link to a Model Power parts diagram. Might make it easier to find the part by being able to say exactly which part it is (if the specific part is listed there). At least you can point out what you are looking for:

https://hoseeker.net/modelpowerN/modelpowerN462Pacific.jpg

[wm3798]

I'd also suggest that you carefully scan your trackwork and see if that little pin doesn't show up.  Matter can neither be created nor destroyed... it's got to be there somewhere.

One trick would be the panty hose over the vacuum cleaner trick.  Put a stocking over the end of your vacuum hose, and carefully move along the track in the area where the problem occurred.  It will suck up everything and stick it on the fabric without sucking it into the bag.  Odds are you will find the little bugger, then carefully re-assemble and see if that doesn't fix the problem. 

Then, when you run it, make sure you put a dab of gear lube on the moving bits to make sure they don't bind up again to repeat the problem.

Good luck with it either way.
Lee

[wm3798]

I don't have the Pacific, but I have two of the Mikados.  I'm assuming the siderods and valve gear are similarly assembled.  Which end of the eccentric came loose?  Was it the end nearer the drive wheel or the end closer to the piston?

Under magnification, it appears the connections are with some sort of rivet, so it's possible that whatever was there is not going to be reusable. (Probably wore down and sheered off).

Could be a question for @mmagliaro or @victor miranda to tackle.

Lee

[CBQ Fan]

I don't have the Pacific, but I have two of the Mikados.  I'm assuming the siderods and valve gear are similarly assembled.  Which end of the eccentric came loose?  Was it the end nearer the drive wheel or the end closer to the piston?

Under magnification, it appears the connections are with some sort of rivet, so it's possible that whatever was there is not going to be reusable. (Probably wore down and sheered off).

Could be a question for @mmagliaro or @victor miranda to tackle.

Lee

Last time victor was active was in 2017. 

[wm3798]

He lurks.  You just have to send up the correct Bat Signal.

[mmagliaro]

I would like to see a close-up photo of the problem area, so I can see with 100% certainty, what part you need.
Yes, those connections on the MP steam are with tiny rivets, which I have never found as something you could buy.
I typically cobble together a replacement using a small piece of fine brass tube or wire, carefully crushed or braces and struck with a hammer to flare out the two ends.  Either that, or get a micro nut and bolt (You can get them down the M0.6 which is, like, really really small, man)

Anyhoo... post a sharp close-up photo please.  I'm sure I'll have some ideas.

[peteski]

The eccentric crankpin in that loco is made from pot metal, and the link is retained by flaring the end of the post on the end of the eccentric's post.
On the reversing link side, small rivets are used to connect parts together. Like Max, I have never found a source for those, and have made my own couple of time.

[Bangorboy]

Thanks for all the replies.  Love the camaraderie that this site exhibits all the time.
I have the same parts diagram as JMaurer1 posted, but the eccentric rod isn't called out separately, let alone the rivet.
A magnet didn't do any good, but I'll try the vacuum cleaner trick.  Thanks, Lee.
It is exactly the Pin/Screw/Rivet that you painted blue in your photo.  The front end of the eccentric rod came loose from that curved bellcrank-like device.  The rear end of the eccentric rod is still attached to the crank on the center driver.  It pivoted down from that crank and became a vaulting pole.  After sitting in the box since I purchased it all those years ago, it had only been run about 15 minutes since new.  I don't think it wore down, but if it's a rivet it probably wasn't completely peened on the inside end. 

I'll examine the hole and see if nylon hose will help locate the little bugger.  If not, I'll soon see if I'm clever enough to manufacture my own as you mentioned.  I really appreciate the advice.
Happy railroading for the New Year to all of you.
Bill

[peteski]

Unfortunately none of the model manufacturers supply those tiny rivets as spare parts. The best you can hope for is to buy the entire valve gear assembly, but as you found out Model Power is long gone. Actually Model Power N scale models were taken over by MRC (Model Rectifier Corp.), so you might have some luck getting spares from them). Other than that, like you said, you have to roll your own.

[Bangorboy]

Thanks, Peteski.
To answer the request for a picture, I'll attach one I just took a minute ago.



The missing fastener is at the joint of 2.  Eccentric Rod and 7.  Link (Expansion Link)Photo attached.
In the photo, A became detached from B.

Bill

[mmagliaro]

If you've got steady hands (and a bit of nerve!)  you can make something for that from a straight pin.  Hunt up the very smallest one you can find in your sewing supplies, or look at a sewing store like JoAnn Fabrics.   You can cut off most of the shank, push it through the two pieces from the front (so the head of the pin will become the new rivet "head").  On the back side it gets a little tricky, but I've managed to just bend it sideways and then grip the front and back between fine pliers and give it a little squeeze.   It doesn't have to hold very much force.  It just needs to keep the two pieces together.

[Dwight in Toronto]

If worse comes to worst and Bill is unable to improvise a suitable repair, might it be possible to simply remove the loose, troublesome eccentric arm?   Not prototypical and not ideal, but he still gets to enjoy a nice little steamer.

I’ve had the same Model Power 4-6-2 for maybe 15 years or so, in a very attractive Canadian Pacific livery, and tackled a sound install just over a month ago.  With an ESU 58731 “Kato Japan” board, ESU speaker, 0402 led in the headlamp, and new hand-crafted tender wipers, this is one of my favourite runners.  I hope Bill’s returns to duty soon!

[160Carl]

As a plastic modeller, I would stretch some sprue, very thin. Cut a long length, and flare one end with a heated screwdriver blade.
Then, feed this through the hole on the upper hanger and rod, so the UNFLARED end is sticking out.
 Next clip it close, but not too close to the assembly. Leaving a bit poking out.
Finally, reheat the flat screw driver, and push it against the exposed bit, to flare that end.

[wazzou]

As a plastic modeller, I would stretch some sprue, very thin. Cut a long length, and flare one end with a heated screwdriver blade.
Then, feed this through the hole on the upper hanger and rod, so the UNFLARED end is sticking out.
 Next clip it close, but not too close to the assembly. Leaving a bit poking out.
Finally, reheat the flat screw driver, and push it against the exposed bit, to flare that end.

Good suggestion, but I think the action of the valve gear would render that repair moot over a short period of time.