Adhesive for SMD LEDs?

[MetroRedLine]

How you glue SMD LEDs to the inside of a loco body? I tried CA (both thin and slow-setting thick) and NONE of them would stick. If it affects anything, I have the LED on, connected into a mini-breadboard powered by a pair of AA batteries so I can ensure maximum brightness when I place it behind the lens hole. But it...just...won't...stick. How do you DCC install gurus do it?

[wvgca]

i used walthers goo, it held well enough until it dried / cured ... any thing really thick would probably work as well also ..

[ednadolski]

Is this for a front/rear/ditch light(s)?   Do you glue the LED directly onto the lens?

Ed

[woodone]

I have used a light activated clear glue called Bondic.   It is petty thick and will hold your SMT LED in place untill you shine a UV light on it. It becomes a clear plastic.

[peteski]

How you glue SMD LEDs to the inside of a loco body? I tried CA (both thin and slow-setting thick) and NONE of them would stick. If it affects anything, I have the LED on, connected into a mini-breadboard powered by a pair of AA batteries so I can ensure maximum brightness when I place it behind the lens hole. But it...just...won't...stick. How do you DCC install gurus do it?

Have you tried CA with accelerator?
But you are correct that SMD LEDs are rather difficult to glue.  I often just encase the entire LED with a blob of 5-minute epoxy which I then paint using silver or black paint (sometimes both) in enough layers to block the light from glowing inside the shell.

[Viperjim1]

Has anyone tried using hot glue gun as it can be removed when need be and I don’t think it will get hot enough to distort the shell.

[peteski]

Has anyone tried using hot glue gun as it can be removed when need be and I don’t think it will get hot enough to distort the shell.

There are low temperature guns and glue sticks, so you might be ok using it with a plastic shell. Not that I have ever tried it.

[central.vermont]

I have used Evergreen Scale Models Canopy glue. SKU: 1884659 It's water based and flexible once dry.  This way you can remove them if they fail in the future.

Jon

[TravelingCarpenter]

I use sticky putty, like the kind you hang up posters.
UHU Tac PROPower, 2.1 oz (50g), 21 pads (48680), Black https://a.co/d/cN0YHGp

[MetroRedLine]

I use sticky putty, like the kind you hang up posters.
UHU Tac PROPower, 2.1 oz (50g), 21 pads (48680), Black https://a.co/d/cN0YHGp

I use sticky putty for DCC installs, but only as a tool for keeping wires out of the way or temporarily holding them in place. I'm concerned any heat from the lights (and they do still generate some heat, just not nearly as much as incandescent bulbs) will soften the putty.

[peteski]

I use sticky putty for DCC installs, but only as a tool for keeping wires out of the way or temporarily holding them in place. I'm concerned any heat from the lights (and they do still generate some heat, just not nearly as much as incandescent bulbs) will soften the putty.

White or red LEDs used in N scale (running 10mA or less current through them) should not generate any appreciable current. Should even not get warm to the touch.  The current-limiting resistors OTOH, well get a bit warm (since they are dissipating most of the power).

[jeffstri]

I use Plaid Gallery Glass Crystal Clear 16001. The Ngineering guys recommended this stuff to me years ago.  I use it to mount SMD LEDs, SMD resistors, strain relief at solder connections to smd LEDs and decoders, and hold wires in place. Also you can make an entire lens from it.

It's water-based, flexible when dry, and easy to remove. The manufacturer says it takes 8 hours to dry but that's for the thick beads used in stained glass. I encase the entire LED in a small drop. The thin layer to hold a SMD LED will set up in minutes and you can add another layer(s) if needed in 20-30 min when the first one is clear.

[MetroRedLine]

I use Plaid Gallery Glass Crystal Clear 16001. The Ngineering guys recommended this stuff to me years ago.  I use it to mount SMD LEDs, SMD resistors, strain relief at solder connections to smd LEDs and decoders, and hold wires in place. Also you can make an entire lens from it.

It's water-based, flexible when dry, and easy to remove. The manufacturer says it takes 8 hours to dry but that's for the thick beads used in stained glass. I encase the entire LED in a small drop. The thin layer to hold a SMD LED will set up in minutes and you can add another layer(s) if needed in 20-30 min when the first one is clear.

Thanks; I figured out a similar, and very inexpensive, solution - Elmer's Clear Glue. It seems to behave like the product you're talking about. It sets up in 20-30 minutes and you can also make a lens out of it. I ended up putting some behind the lenses, then adding a small amount on the SMD LED surface before applying it on in 20 minutes when it got more tacky. I connected the light to a small breadboard powered by 2 AAA batteries to illuminate the LED while installing it to ensure maximum brightness shone through the lens. After it dried, I added some more Clear Glue behind the LED and after it dried I lit it up again and brushed on black craft paint to eliminate the light bleed. And if I messed up, I can simply pull off the glue, peel it off and start all over again.

[craigolio1]

I loooooove bondic for this. Just a tiny drop to hood it in place And then I’ll fortify with a bit of white glue or even epoxy if I feel more support is required… after testing.

I use bondic to tack wires in place as I go as well.

Craig