Glue for scratchbuilding styrene structures

[Bob]

I am making a large number of scratchbuilt styrene structures.  For the most part I use CA glue, and sometimes use the solvent type glue.  Any of you have a favorite type of CA glue or other type of glue you use for styrene structures?  Just curious if there are other options.

[wazzou]

I generally prefer Tamiya Extra Thin Cement for a number of reasons, but I like the precise application brush.

[Chris333]

1 gallon jug of MEK from the hardware store that I pour into a tiny Testors bottle with a brush built into the lid. Or 16oz. bottle of EZ bond thin that I keep in the fridge.

[NtheBasement]

Never tried bonding styrene with CA.  Does it make a strong joint?

I use Tamaya for the same reason as @wazzou and occasionally do inside corners with the black Testors liquid with the needle tube applicator.  If the corner is hidden I use 1/8" square Evergreen tubing as corner blocking for added strength.

For CA I usually go with whatever is cheapest and comes in the smallest tubes, as I don't go thru it fast and the bigger bottles harden up long before they go empty.  I store the opened tubes upright.

[peteski]

CA is excellent for bonding most materials (including styrene).  Yes, if the glued surfaces are clean and free of oils, the bond will be strong. Remember the old TV adverts where a guy is hanging off his hard-hat bonded with CA to a beam?

I'm a CA addict - I use CA for majority of my hobby tasks, but I'm also addicted to CA accelerator - couldn't enjoy my hobby without them.  I like my glue joints to set up very fast.

Cheap CA from dollar stores will work.  For accelerator my one and only choice is Bob Smith Industries (BSI) accelerator.  Many hobby stores carry BSI line of adhesives.  Some sell it under the hobby store's name,  but BSI is listed as the manufacturer.

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Photo shows that I use both,  BSI, and a dollar store CA.  Accelerator is not pictured.

Another good thing about CA is that unlike solvent cements which weld styrene, CA will also work when gluing other materials to styrene.

When they are called for I do occasionally use other adhesives like the styrene solvent cement (mentioned here earlier) or epoxy.

[TrainCat2]

I generally prefer Tamiya Extra Thin Cement for a number of reasons, but I like the precise application brush.

+1

Also, I use Testors liquid cement in certain applications such as telescoping tubes, squares, etc.

[wm3798]

Good old Plastruct Cement.  The liquid kind in the orange bottle.  Basically the MEK that @Chris333 mentions.  But I get mine a small bottle at a time.
Lee

[peteski]

Good old Plastruct Cement.  The liquid kind in the orange bottle.  Basically the MEK that @Chris333 mentions.  But I get mine a small bottle at a time.
Lee

My anal nature makes me mention that Plastruct Plastic Weld cement contains no MEK.  I have 2 bottles.  The very old one contains Chloroform, and the newer one Trichloromethane.  No MEK, unless they have changed the formula again.

But basically, the Plastruct cements are just some of several solvent-based cements which join the plastic by melting (welding) the pieces together.

I mentioned that because some modelers like to stay away from MEK because it is considered to be a hazardous chemical (just like many other chemicals we use in our hobbies).

[wm3798]

I stand corrected

[Chris333]

Some modelers like to walk towards MEK because it is considered to be a hazardous chemical. 

[peteski]

Some modelers like to walk towards MEK because it is considered to be a hazardous chemical. 

Yeah, sniff it baby!     Personally, I find the sweet smell of Methylene Chloride more pleasant.  MEK, is meh.
Not that I sniff glue, but when you crack open a bottle, you get a faint smell of the liquid.

[robert3985]

I'm still using up my supply of Tenax 7R plastic "welder", which I much prefer over adhesives.  I've also got a bottle of Plastruct welder which I sometimes use when using Plastruct products.

I use gap-filling CA sometimes on the interior of already "welded" corner joints to reinforce them, along with my trusty CA Accelerator.

When I decide to tackle another Intermountain Reefer or boxcar kit, my Tenax 7R welder makes attaching all the minuscule exterior parts quite easy...without any worry of stringing glue on the painted exterior or shiny globs peeking out of oversized mounting holes...plus, Tenax works with painted parts, still "welding" them in spite of being painted.

There are several places to purchase Tenax replacements that are identical to it except for the name...Micro-Mark "Same Stuff" Professional Plastic Welder, JM Hobby Supply-Styrene Tack It II, and Plastruct Plastic Weld (which appears to be the same as Tenax or do the same thing)

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[peteski]

Tenax 7R was basically Methylene Chloride.  It evaporates very fast and that sometimes can be undesired.

MEK (Testor's Liquid Cement or other brands) also welds polystyrene but is not as aggressive as Methylene Chloride and it evaporates slower.  That slower evaporation sometimes can be an advantage.  I use both types, depending on the task at hand.

[Chris333]

You can always blow on MEK.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I generally prefer Tamiya Extra Thin Cement for a number of reasons, but I like the precise application brush.

This is the way