Kato BigBoy pic - large screen cap for detail

[Dwight in Toronto]

I did not pre-order, preferring to see one in person first, but local hobby shops here in Toronto do not yet have any on the shelf (reportedly “inbound “).

The only dcc/sound version I would be interested in would be retrofitting ESU.  Reading all of the above, there appears to be a lot of uncertainty around the viability of custom installs with this beast, but if anyone can do it, it is Railwire craftspeople … I know you will eventually find & share “a way”!

[woodone]

Peteski, the two rods are in the very top of the boiler shell. I have figured out that the rods connect the front engine with the rear engine . Right rail & left rail. Knowing this I think I will rewire the way I had done. No need to run a pair of wires from the front engine to the rear engine. With out me removing the front engine I did not realize the front & rear engine were tied together with these rods. Wiring the headlight looks to be a PITA!

[peteski]

Peteski, the two rods are in the very top of the boiler shell. I have figured out that the rods connect the front engine with the rear engine . Right rail & left rail. Knowing this I think I will rewire the way I had done. No need to run a pair of wires from the front engine to the rear engine. With out me removing the front engine I did not realize the front & rear engine were tied together with these rods. Wiring the headlight looks to be a PITA!

Rods?  That is a diecast metal split-frame chassis in the boiler.  It (along with the plastic boiler) provided pivot for the engines, and provides  electrical contact for both engines (so you have all the drivers picking up track power).  Yes, you need to isolate both motors from their corresponding split sub-frames.  As you keep discovering, this is an unconventional design.

This is what the "rods" frames look like.  I suspect that you haven't yet fully disassembled the boiler area.

[woodone]

You are right I have not torn mine apart has much has you have.
I am not sure what you mean about isolating the motors. They must have some sort of insulation on the metal case of the motor.
I checked and there is no connection between the two.
I just ran wires between the two motors and then to the decoder.
Figured that with both the red & black wires removed from frame contact the motor is good to go.
I got the headlight board out and have it modified so I can control the H/L with the decoder.
I cut a small gap into the H/L board on the left side, then soldered a small wire to the pad just in front of the left side contact strip on the board. I also put a small piece of Kapton tape at the front of the board on the right rail contact.
Looks to me they (Kato) made the frame just a bit thinner on the frame that comes from the left frame over the board.
I found that if I pushed up on the board it would short.  Now to test run.

[peteski]

I guess I misunderstood you Jerry.  Sounds like you handled wiring the the motors correctly.  When you have the model fullt disassembled you will see that Kato provided channels in that long metal chassis to run the wires on top  of the chassis from the front motor and headlight.  Not sure how  you are running those wires when the chassis is  no fully exposed.

As for the light board, yes Kato made the frame thinner so the left frame (which extends to the right side) does not short out to the right side contact pad. I mentioned that earlier. But yes, if you push the light board up, it will short out the right and left frames.  Again, strange design.

[Tjack757]

After I found this thread during a Interweb search, I joined the forum for more insight on converting my Kato Big Boy to DCC.

[woodone]

It's going back together.  I have the front H/L working & the wiring complete in the locomotive.
I did a test run with a non-sound decoder just to check things out.
I had to pick up a decoder to get the latest Tsunami2 decoder heavy steam this decoder has a sound file made from the 4014 has of late.
Tomorow should let me start putting parts back on.
I have to run my wiring along the draw bar to get into the tender. Going to put in 6 pin connector to hook to the decoder.

[peteski]

Nice!  I'm planning on a 3-wire connection between tender and loco.  I'll also document my install as the time allows.

[Tjack757]

Peteski,
What decoder are you planning on using?
My plan was to keep the wiring simple, using only three wires also 2 for the motors and one for the head light. I am very interested in how you route the wires and connectorize the wires. Rumor has it that Kato is using the Soundtraxx TSU-Big Steam decoder.

[peteski]

I will be posting progress of my light board modification and wire routing as time allows (in a separate thread in the DCC section).  My plan is also to add a small PC board at the rear of the loco's frame as it seems Kato actually cast grooves for one.  Maybe they will be doing the same on their install. That board will be like junction block for all the wires (and a headlight resistor as there will not be room for one on my modified light board). I'm also planning a 3-pin connector there, so I can still easily disconnect the tender. Those are my preliminary plans - not sure if it will all work out.

I'll likely use ESU decoders as that's what I prefer.   While I'm sure some would argue, to me  ESU is a major step up from Soundtraxx decoders (in configuration flexibility).  Plus I like to minimize the number of sound decoder brands I use.

[Sokramiketes]

As Charlie Vlk used to say about Kato...snatching defeat away from the jaws of victory. 

Enjoy!

Kelley.
www.dufordmodelworks.com

I can even read this in his voice!  Good memories of Charlie. 

[Dwight in Toronto]

I will be posting progress of my light board modification and wire routing as time allows ………….  I'll likely use ESU decoders as that's what I prefer ……………. I like to minimize the number of sound decoder brands I use.

Ahhhh, music to my ears - my thoughts exactly.  I may well be visiting my LHS tomorrow to study one of their on-the-shelf DC Big Boys.   Which means that I will probably end up being THIS CLOSE to purchasing it.  And if I do, it will be with the faith, confidence, and anticipation that Pete and others on this board will show and share how the model can, indeed, be equipped with ESU LokSound.

Pete - you said “decoderS” - are you thinking one decoder per ‘engine’ block?  Maybe one sound, one LokPilot?

[peteski]

Pete - you said “decoderS” - are you thinking one decoder per ‘engine’ block?  Maybe one sound, one LokPilot?

LOL! No, I just mentioned that I like ESU decoders in general.  I'm also curious how the decoder (any decoder) will handle driving 2 coreless motors.

If I  wanted to stuff two decoders in there, they should be sound decoders (since each engine would need its own chuff sounds, and theoretically go in and out of sync).

[Mark5]

I'm also curious how the decoder (any decoder) will handle driving 2 coreless motors.

I am watching this with some interest (mainly curiosity), but the Kato HO P42 has a two motors (one in each truck), and the instructions indicate that a single decoder can handle it, though it seems counter-intuitive to me:

http://www.katousa.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/HO-P42-DCC-Modifications.pdf

[up1950s]

A bit pissed off the lettering isn't silver am I .

Pete proved me wrong later on . Now I am pissed at UP for the white . With Big Boy chalked on the smoke box door my guess now it was to replicate the as delivered paint . But 4000 was the one with the chalked door not 4014  . 4000 had the radiators on the porch and was coal fired , and didn't have front engine chain lubrication . So the white was totally uncalled for by the UP . After all these of trying to get manufactures to follow UP standards of steam locos having Aluminum Leaf lettering , UP does this and sets us back 80 years on that effort . Well they got 4014 resurrected , so I guess I have said too much again .