I hate numberboards... but

[Ed Kapuscinski]

... thanks to @jpec I think these turned out ok.

They're laser printed onto regular paper, then covered with some packing tape. Then installed.

They're a pain in the a$$, but less so than other methods I've done.

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[Bendtracker1]

Those don't look too bad Ed.
Have you tried Shell Scale Decals for numberboards?

I've been using them on my recent locos.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I haven't, but I hate the thought of having to align that many tiny numerals. You guys with three digit unit numbers luck out on that front!

[jpec]

... thanks to @jpec I think these turned out ok.

They're laser printed onto regular paper, then covered with some packing tape. Then installed.

They're a pain in the a$$, but less so than other methods I've done.

(Attachment Link)

It's pretty easy and a whole lot less of a pain in the as* than decaling...make an excel spreadsheet , fill the cell in black, print and trim. I used to use Micro Kleer or whatever it's called to hold them in place but I found double-sided Scotch tape does a great job on the back side and if you want to go ham, regular tape on the front for the "lens"...

[randgust]

I've been using John Sing's method of printing them out of Excel onto small mailing return label stock (sticky back) now for years.   May hit the edges with a tiny bit of ACC to make sure they don't dry out and fall off, but that's all.    Sure look good.  ACC won't run a inkjet printed sticker.  If you're putting a bit of packing tape over the top to make it look like glass, cool, I'll have to try that.

And I just don't get hung up over lit numberboards.   If anything, most RTR diesels light them up like they were theater marquees, way too bright to the point they have to be painted over anyway and still glow just a bit.    I prefer one or two super-bright tiny LED's right in the headlight housing, period.   I just think that at any distance, what you see is a VERY bright headlight, and not numberboards, until you are literally on top of a locomotive.

[sd45elect2000]

I've been using John Sing's method of printing them out of Excel onto small mailing return label stock (sticky back) now for years.   May hit the edges with a tiny bit of ACC to make sure they don't dry out and fall off, but that's all.    Sure look good.  ACC won't run a inkjet printed sticker.  If you're putting a bit of packing tape over the top to make it look like glass, cool, I'll have to try that.

And I just don't get hung up over lit numberboards.   If anything, most RTR diesels light them up like they were theater marquees, way too bright to the point they have to be painted over anyway and still glow just a bit.    I prefer one or two super-bright tiny LED's right in the headlight housing, period.   I just think that at any distance, what you see is a VERY bright headlight, and not numberboards, until you are literally on top of a locomotive.

I’m not hung up number boards either. In a locomotive consist only one engine should have the number boards lit anyhow. It’s the engine that the main track authority has been given to. All other need to be turned off. The lead locomotive is not always the one that has authority.
Let’s say that I am on 3614 West and I have authority to Milepost 106, I pickup two engines on my head end at milepost 77 and now my lead engine is 3908. I do not need to get a new track warrant but I do need to extinguish my number lights on the 3908 and leave the 3614 lit even though it’s now the third engine back.

Randy

[jpwisc]

I’ll be honest, I’ve been having custom numberboards made by Matt at Circus City. The fonts are right and he sizes them for the engines I’m working on. Huge timesaver
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[wm3798]

I'm like Randy.  Print them on a label stock, then give them a bit of gloss mod podge for that glassy, classy look.
Lee

[carlso]

I too use John Sing's method except that I print them on 20# computer paper. I cut them down to fit the numberboard, apply a tad of Aleene's tacky glue to the board wiggle the snipped print onto the board, press down into the glue, and after  it is dry seal with, whatever.

Here is a sample:
 In this case, I think the font size was 2 and I sealed with the spray I used on the boiler.


Be safe, be well,

Carl

[Wolf N Works]

I will jump on the pile. I also use Sing's method, I use the computer paper and seal with modge podge , canopy glue, super glue any thing that dries clear.

[Lemosteam]

Surprised that no one has mentioned mylar sticky-back sheets.  these can be printed on to eliminate the double stick tape and some of the overall thickness. a drop of Glosscote seals them in and makes a lens at the same time. white letters on black background or black letters on white- just paint the surface of the letterboard first (lit or not).

https://www.duall.com/store/product/115254.115269/computer-grafix-clear-adhesive-backed-ink-jet-plastic-sheets-8-5x11.html

[TravelingCarpenter]

I am with Allen, shell scale number boards! Some turn up their nose at number boards,,BUT I THINK, they matter immensely. People whine about a paint color being off, or a RR specific detail missing. I have never tried the “ John Sing” method. I just prefer to cuss while I do numberboards.







I am me, and I approve this message
TC

[John]

Let’s say that I am on 3614 West and I have authority to Milepost 106, I pickup two engines on my head end at milepost 77 and now my lead engine is 3908. I do not need to get a new track warrant but I do need to extinguish my number lights on the 3908 and leave the 3614 lit even though it’s now the third engine back.

Randy

Interesting -- I always figured the lights were for safety so that anything ahead could see you coming ..  thanks for the info

[PiperguyUMD]

I’ll vouch for the Shell Scale decals. I don’t remember exactly how I found them, the system is very forgiving. Plus they’re lighted!