Weekend Update 9/11/22

[TiogaTracks]

Agreed, the bridges and riverside scenery look great!

I went down a rabbit hole of scratching together interior scenery for a freelanced small NYC-style railroad tower.  I’m calling it here before I go crazy (err,crazier?).

I just made a pencil.  A G-SCALE PENCIL.  At what point does misguided model railroading become dollhouse building?  Either way, I think I’ve lost it!

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The desk lamp works, it was a Model Power N-scale streetlight.

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I still need to figure out the roof of the tower, and how to attach it to its foundation.  Then I’m ready to start wiring the layout for DCC, hiding the second loop control board on the tower’s blacked out first floor.

-Steven

[tehachapifan]

Good stuff so far!

I have yet another N scale SP SW1500 kitbash in the works. This is my sixth, but this will be the first that doesn't ride on a modified Con-Cor/Kato switcher drive. Instead, this one has a custom-built drive that utilizes a Bachmann (I believe coreless) motor and LL truck assemblies with MT Flexicoil sideframes (still deciding on wheels). This will be a sound unit with a LokSound 5 decoder (temporarily installed in photo) and a 9x16mm speaker installed in the fuel tank. So far, the drive runs and sounds great!

The shell is made from Atlas N MP15DC shell components with the exception of the number boards and part of the handrails. The see thru grills are made from Eduard mesh and the SP-style lighting is from Detail Associates (one light on the cab end...the red UDE light...is a Sunrise casting). The horn is from MBE, the cut levers are BLMA and the sunshades are from TWX (mounted over a BLMA sunshade track).

[BCR 570]

Some decent progress on the Highway 97 overpass section of the layout this past week, prior to re-hanging on the wall.

Removal of the stub end Fort St. John Subdivision trackage:




Relocating the right-of-way using a balsa wood template (18" radius curve with easements either end):




With track pinned in place temporarily, a clearance check through the backdrop using a loaded 85' trailer flatcar:




Balsa sub-roadbed installed on the rear shelf behind the backdrop, for the run along the wall:




After a busy first week back at school, I hope to get some more progress done this weekend.

Tim

[Jim Starbuck]

Good stuff so far!

I have yet another N scale SP SW1500 kitbash in the works. This is my sixth, but this will be the first that doesn't ride on a modified Con-Cor/Kato switcher drive. Instead, this one has a custom-built drive that utilizes a Bachmann (I believe coreless) motor and LL truck assemblies with MT Flexicoil sideframes (still deciding on wheels). This will be a sound unit with a LokSound 5 decoder (temporarily installed in photo) and a 9x16mm speaker installed in the fuel tank. So far, the drive runs and sounds great!

The shell is made from Atlas N MP15DC shell components with the exception of the number boards and part of the handrails. The see thru grills are made from Eduard mesh and the SP-style lighting is from Detail Associates (one light on the cab end...the red UDE light...is a Sunrise casting). The horn is from MBE, the cut levers are BLMA and the sunshades are from TWX (mounted over a BLMA sunshade track).

Beautiful work! I love the scratch built mechanism.
This is an outstanding build.

Jim

[Dave V]

I had hip surgery back on August 25th. Many years ago I was a distance runner (even did a marathon) and--of course--I ran for the Air Force. In those days 5 miles was a short run. Well...by 2011 an MRI showed that I'd torn the labrum in my right hip. Okay, so I throttled back on the non mission-essential running. Moved to Colorado, took up hiking and resumed skiing (been a skier since age 9). Got big-time into spin classes at a local studio, then retired from Air Force and bought a Peloton. This is all good, right? I mean biking is low-impact, isn't it? That ever increasing pain in my right hip and down my right leg must just have been me getting old (I turned 48 last month).

Well, this year's MRI showed the labrum torn all the way through. I was struggling to ski, to hike, and some days to walk. So...the doc who fixed my shoulder a few years ago (he works on the Olympic athletes who train here in Colorado Springs) is also one of the best hip guys on the Front Range. My labrum was entirely too shredded to save, so--after shaving down a bunch of bone spurs--he gave me a new labrum from donor tissue.

I'm already in physical therapy and already driving (and---with doc's permission--10 minutes a day on the Peloton again). I've even lost more weight which is kinda surprising considering how I've reduced my workouts by like 90-95%. But I'll take it!

The good news is that I can work on trains from a seated position. Building one of the many old Rail Line boxcar kits I have around… These are some 40+ year old kits that build into a D&RGW 3000-series boxcar equal in detail and crispness to a Blackstone model. This one will have Grandt Line D&RGW 3’7” archbar trucks. My supply of the Blackstone version of those trucks is getting down to a handful.



Then last night (on crutches) it was time to JFRTM.

[C855B]

... This is all good, right? I mean biking is low-impact, isn't it? ...

I learned the truth about that 40 years ago, Dave. I road-raced bicycles back in school, and tried to resume that 10 years later. Nuh uh. After a couple of weeks of workouts I was standing at the line printer at work waiting for a report, and both knees let go. Fortunately no permanent damage, but doc said to cut it out, that I had overextended several ligaments. Got rid of my bike and called it "done". Paying for it now with some arthritis in my left knee that locks-up occasionally. I have the orthopedist in "Favorites", too.

You've related a lot of health issues along the way. Getting old is not for wimps. Good luck with it all.

[peteski]

I went down a rabbit hole of scratching together interior scenery for a freelanced small NYC-style railroad tower.  I’m calling it here before I go crazy (err,crazier?).

I just made a pencil.  A G-SCALE PENCIL.  At what point does misguided model railroading become dollhouse building?  Either way, I think I’ve lost it!

The desk lamp works, it was a Model Power N-scale streetlight.

I still need to figure out the roof of the tower, and how to attach it to its foundation.  Then I’m ready to start wiring the layout for DCC, hiding the second loop control board on the tower’s blacked out first floor.

-Steven

I like it!  I also don't think that either the G Scale pencil or a working desk lamp are all that crazy.

If you want to see "crazy", how about the interior of an N scale bar, complete with bottles, pool table with a cue and cue-balls, and full illumination?





Then there is our own DKS who takes microscopic modeling even few steps higher.  You are in good company Steven, even though you model on the opposite spectrum on model RR scales. 

One comment I like to make is that the tiny chair you used would be best suited for a home dining room (as your photo shows).  I think that a RR tower would more likely have one of the rolling office chairs.  Since you are in a dollhouse scale, those are available too.  Here are some examples of such dollhouse chairs I found on the Internet.

   

[peteski]

Good stuff so far!

I have yet another N scale SP SW1500 kitbash in the works. This is my sixth, but this will be the first that doesn't ride on a modified Con-Cor/Kato switcher drive. Instead, this one has a custom-built drive that utilizes a Bachmann (I believe coreless) motor and LL truck assemblies with MT Flexicoil sideframes (still deciding on wheels). This will be a sound unit with a LokSound 5 decoder (temporarily installed in photo) and a 9x16mm speaker installed in the fuel tank. So far, the drive runs and sounds great!

The shell is made from Atlas N MP15DC shell components with the exception of the number boards and part of the handrails. The see thru grills are made from Eduard mesh and the SP-style lighting is from Detail Associates (one light on the cab end...the red UDE light...is a Sunrise casting). The horn is from MBE, the cut levers are BLMA and the sunshades are from TWX (mounted over a BLMA sunshade track).

Very nice. I always impressed by your modeling, especially the lighting effects.

You are correct, Bachman (and several other model RR companies) have started using inexpensive coreless motors.   Several years ago those have became easily obtainable and low cost due to proliferation of inexpensive flying toys (like toy drones) which required that type of motors.  SO Mass production was started in China. The high quality coreless motors are still being made bu European companies such as Maxxon or Minimotor.  Those high-end motors are quite pricey, but they usually have more windings in the rotor basket (comparable to poles), and precious metal commutator and brushes (for longer life). Also the low-cost motors with dual shafts usually don't have a bearing on the commutator end (the bearing is buried inside the motor, leaving the shaft to float).  But in model RR applications those inexpensive motors should be sufficient for the task.

[davefoxx]

Post your anachronisms!  Mine is the American Freedom Train PA-1 No. 1776.  I find it funny that Amtrak Phase III stripes are upside down, as compared to the AFT scheme.  Okay, okay, it’s not a bicentennial scheme (which I’m a sucker for), but it does coordinate well with my growing bicentennial fleet.



DFF

[timwatson]

Worked a little on my lil hon30 layout. I replaced a foam core and chooch rock curved stone bridge with a resin 3d printed one. This is the last bridge change and now I can start laying track work.

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More progress shots here https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=53305.0

[tehachapifan]

Beautiful work! I love the scratch built mechanism.
This is an outstanding build.

Jim

Thanks, Jim! Your N scale switcher builds provide a lot of the inspiration!

Very nice. I always impressed by your modeling, especially the lighting effects.

You are correct, Bachman (and several other model RR companies) have started using inexpensive coreless motors.   Several years ago those have became easily obtainable and low cost due to proliferation of inexpensive flying toys (like toy drones) which required that type of motors.  SO Mass production was started in China. The high quality coreless motors are still being made bu European companies such as Maxxon or Minimotor.  Those high-end motors are quite pricey, but they usually have more windings in the rotor basket (comparable to poles), and precious metal commutator and brushes (for longer life). Also the low-cost motors with dual shafts usually don't have a bearing on the commutator end (the bearing is buried inside the motor, leaving the shaft to float).  But in model RR applications those inexpensive motors should be sufficient for the task.

Thanks, Peteski!

Dave V., your modeling and photos are stunning as always!

[ednadolski]

The see thru grills are made from Eduard mesh ….

How would that stuff work for n-scale chain link fence?

Ed

[DKS]

How would that stuff work for n-scale chain link fence?

Sorry for butting in, but I have yet to see an etched material that realistically reproduces chain link fence in N Scale. Etched metal is way too thick, and even the smallest openings are too large. For the very best effect, use tulle, a.k.a. bridal veil fabric. It's sometimes available in grey, which is perfect for N Scale chain link fence as-is.

Here's a close-up of a fence I completed recently:

[tehachapifan]

How would that stuff work for n-scale chain link fence?

Ed

Hadn't really considered using it for chain link but I tend to agree with DKS. Also, the mesh I'm using or both the top and from grills have rectangular openings. Can't recall if they have a mesh with square openings.

[ednadolski]

Sorry for butting in, but I have yet to see an etched material that realistically reproduces chain link fence in N Scale. Etched metal is way too thick, and even the smallest openings are too large. For the very best effect, use tulle, a.k.a. bridal veil fabric. It's sometimes available in grey, which is perfect for N Scale chain link fence as-is.

Here's a close-up of a fence I completed recently:

Looks great, is there a specific one that you use?   I’ve searched online and there seems to be a lot of variety, but without actually seeing it is hard to tell how it will look as a scale model.

Thanks,
Ed