Atlas C55 #7 switches

[mike_lawyer]

I am almost completed with the bench work for my new PRR Middle Division Layout.  I am going to use Atlas Code 55 flex and was planning on using Atlas Code 55 #7 turnouts throughout.  The problem is that I can't find anyone with them in stock.  Does anyone know of a supplier that has any of them or any idea when Atlas is going to have more supply available?

If I can't find any Atlas #7s, I might have to go the Fast tracks handlaid route.

[John]

If I can't find any Atlas #7s, I might have to go the Fast tracks handlaid route.

you might be happier and safe a lot of money

[mmagliaro]

you might be happier and safe a lot of money

Having gone through this process after using a lot of Atlas turnouts, I second this.  If I ever build another layout,
NO  .... BLOODY.... WAY... would I do anything but build them myself with a FastTracks jig.  Once you build one,
they are as easy as rolling off a log and they look and work so much better.

[mu26aeh]

Shop I work at shows RH in stock.  Not sure how many are there, probably best to email for availability

https://mainlinehobby.com/150-2053-7-rh-turnout-cd-55.html

[robert3985]

Since I roll my own turnouts, I'm not sure about availability, but...Micro Engineering #6's will work just fine in place of the Atlas #7's...and look much better, be more robust and don't have any plating that will wear off after a couple of years of track cleaning.

Atlas turnouts are ALL improperly proportioned, being much too short between the point of the frog and the closure point toes...which makes the effective diverging radius much smaller than on a properly proportioned #5, #7 or #10. 

Atlas #7's are really about a #6.4 because of the smaller-than-it-should-be radius needed to get the turnout to work with its too short of a distance between the frog point and closure rail toes.  This doesn't hurt them operationally, but Atlas is lying by calling them a #7.

Photo (1) - Note the difference in length between the #6 and #7 in this diagram:


Photo (2) - ME #6 -top & Atlas55 #7 -bottom - Note that with the models, there is hardly any difference in length:


Although I encourage you (and anybody) to learn to make your own turnouts, you can easily substitute ME #6's (properly proportioned) for Atlas55 #7's...IF the ME turnouts are readily available.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[signalmaintainer]

And never, ever again will I purchase Atlas code 55 curved turnouts. So many design issues ranging from poor conductivity through the points (soldering magnet wire jumpers around the gap in the closure rails cured that), to wonky point geometry, to a frog the size of Texas, and of course gauging issues.

I have three on my layout, and after a lot of fiddling they are reliable. Sure wish FastTracks would produce a jig that matches the Atlas geometry though. I'd be willing to do the replacement.

Other turnouts on the layout are ME #6s. Definitely superior once the blunt points are tapered. A couple have points that don't snug up fully against the tangent stock rail, but that's not been a derailment-causer, oddly enough.

Next layout -- all handlaid FastTracks. 

[jdcolombo]

FWIW, I built my layout using about 80 Atlas #7's.  At the very end of construction, the Atlas switches were out of stock, so I bought the Fast Tracks #6 jig and the tools to make my own to finish the layout.

And if I ever build another layout, or expand the one I have, it will be with ALL hand-made turnouts.  The #6's I made operate 1000 times more smoothly than the Atlas #7's.  Engines and cars actually glide through the turnouts like they weren't there.  They are made from all nickle-silver rail, so there is non of this copper cladding showing through the frogs after several cleanings and nothing on the turnout is stamped metal.  I did not try to hinge the point rails, and I have had zero problems with them coming loose from the throwbar.  I did have to use a bit heavier piano wire on my Tortoise switch machines to throw the points, but that's about it.

My advice: forget the Atlas switches.  Buy the stuff you need to make your own, and not only will they be an order of magnitude better, but they also will never be out of stock.  And depending on how many you need, you might save money, too.  After your first two or three, you'll be able to make a complete switch in an hour.  Yes, more time consuming than factory-made ones, but honestly the difference in operation is indescribable.

John C.

[jeffstri]

I have 10 right hand and 9 left hand code 55 Atlas #7's that I don't need.

[Dave V]

I have had no luck with N scale code 55 Atlas turnouts of any geometry. They look great, though! 

Seriously, I know others have used Atlas 55 turnouts with no issues with reliability, gauge, etc., and I'm in awe.

FastTracks turnouts (I had a pair on the Enola Yard section of my old PRR Juniata Division) really are that much more reliable in a large part because there are fewer electrical breaks and fewer mechanical bits. Bending the iron like a real railroad versus tiny, shoddy "hinges" for the points...well that's gonna give you better electrical and mechanical continuity.

Not being a hand-layer myself (other than some trestles and two turnouts for which I outsourced the rails, my HOn3 layout is all commercial track) I'm being hypocritical here, but if I were building another N scale Penny Middle Division I'd be going one of two ways...  Peco 55 (not ideal due to appearance and cost, but reliable as all-get-out) or Atlas 55 flex with a combination of Micro Engineering #6s and--wait for it--FastTracks turnouts. I feel like for the number of crossovers I'd need for a Middle Division layout, I could overcome my aversion to handlaying and save a significant amount of money by doing the crossovers using a FastTracks jig.

Just my two cents. I just hope you're one of the lucky ones for which the Atlas code 55 turnouts don't start failing inexpliably.

[Sumner]

... Yes, more time consuming than factory-made ones, but honestly the difference in operation is indescribable.  John C.

Yep and if you need a curved one, a 3-way or any other combo you can make it ....

http://1fatgmc.com/RailRoad/Trackwork/Trackwork-Index.html

Sumner

[robert3985]

FWIW, I built my layout using about 80 Atlas #7's.  At the very end of construction, the Atlas switches were out of stock, so I bought the Fast Tracks #6 jig and the tools to make my own to finish the layout.

And if I ever build another layout, or expand the one I have, it will be with ALL hand-made turnouts.  The #6's I made operate 1000 times more smoothly than the Atlas #7's.  Engines and cars actually glide through the turnouts like they weren't there.  They are made from all nickle-silver rail, so there is non of this copper cladding showing through the frogs after several cleanings and nothing on the turnout is stamped metal.  I did not try to hinge the point rails, and I have had zero problems with them coming loose from the throwbar.  I did have to use a bit heavier piano wire on my Tortoise switch machines to throw the points, but that's about it.

My advice: forget the Atlas switches.  Buy the stuff you need to make your own, and not only will they be an order of magnitude better, but they also will never be out of stock.  And depending on how many you need, you might save money, too.  After your first two or three, you'll be able to make a complete switch in an hour.  Yes, more time consuming than factory-made ones, but honestly the difference in operation is indescribable.

John C.

I agree 100%. 

I've been building my own since the late 1970's and for portable modules and a portable sectional layout in Code 70, Code 55 and Code 40. 

Not only do they run exponentially smoother than commercial RTR brands, they are also more durable and look more prototypical. 

Since I learned to make my own before Fast Tracks was even thought about, they have been exponentially less expensive too than commercial brands, saving me a big pot of money over the decades. 

While others are lamenting the unavailability of those brands made in China due to various economic or international political factors, I am happily making whatever turnouts I want at my workbench.

Yes yes, I fully realize that making your own turnouts is not something that EVERYBODY will want to do.  But, for those on the fence, it is certainly worth learning how to do it because developing the skill set gives you a lot of advantages over buying commercial RTR turnouts, and, you'll be pleasantly surprised at how simple it is, especially if you spring for the Fast Tracks jigs and fixtures to start out with (or you know somebody who will loan you his).

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[danoh]

I wanted to build a switching layout, and was surprised at the lack of turnouts. Going down the black hole internet led me to fast tracks. After more investigation, I didn't buy the turnout jigs. DID buy the frog jig, and the 2 filing jigs. I elected to use the paper templates drawings available for free on the fast tracks website. It was a rough go for the first 2 or 3, but one get's into the swing of things, and is not really that hard to build without the jigs. I back the drawings up using a rail truck, and the Mark IVb track standards gage. I do agree that they are easy to make, and kinda relaxing.

I am gratified to learn from other comments on this thread that the hand laid turnouts work better than the commercial fabricated ones.

[mmagliaro]

And never, ever again will I purchase Atlas code 55 curved turnouts. So many design issues ranging from poor conductivity through the points (soldering magnet wire jumpers around the gap in the closure rails cured that), to wonky point geometry, to a frog the size of Texas, and of course gauging issues.

I have three on my layout, and after a lot of fiddling they are reliable. Sure wish FastTracks would produce a jig that matches the Atlas geometry though. I'd be willing to do the replacement.

Other turnouts on the layout are ME #6s. Definitely superior once the blunt points are tapered. A couple have points that don't snug up fully against the tangent stock rail, but that's not been a derailment-causer, oddly enough.

Next layout -- all handlaid FastTracks.

I used the FastTracks 22/18 curved jig to make a replacement for my Atlas curved turnout.  It dropped in place of the old Atlas turnout with only the slightest of adjustments to the flex track coming in and out of it.   You won't regret it.  No more shimming and patching for me.  Everything rolls through that turnout without a hitch now.

[mike_lawyer]

I think I am going to spring for the Fast Tracks turnouts.  The question is whether I should order the #6 or the #7 turnout jig.  Any advice or recommendations?

[wazzou]

I think I am going to spring for the Fast Tracks turnouts.  The question is whether I should order the #6 or the #7 turnout jig.  Any advice or recommendations?

Go for the longest your area will permit w/o sacrificing what you wish to include.