Weekend Update 4/24/22

[motofavorite]

I had a very frustrating event. I had sprayed a passenger car with a water soluble acrylic from True Line Trains. Then I short a clear coat. I used Krylon gloss clear which said safe for plastics but I should have tested it first. My fault. I shot four cars, and on ONE car, just in one corner, this happened….



I get that there are compatibility issues with different paint types, and I should have tested on a throw away model, but I’m curious if anyone can offer insight as to why it didn’t happen on all 8 sides I shot, and instead just one corner of one side.

Craig.

Yikes. I hate when that happens. I wonder whether the acrylic was fully cured before the overcoat was applied. Acrylics need time for the latex to fully form its network and the hydrophilic solvent to evaporate. Lacquer too soon can interrupt the network formation and the remaining hydrophillic  solvent can act as a mask to the hydrophobic gloss.

[altohorn25]

I took some video of some of my PRR equipment on my module yesterday.

[Jesse6669]

This week I worked on some decals for another modeler, and some scenery on the T-gauge/M scale module.

These decals are being done in N scale, along with a couple more of some private owner hoppers.
 
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

The module (a bean shaped loop on a T-track 2x4 module base) is shaping up to be miles 7-8 on the White Pass Route, incorporating bridge 7B.  The rock are rubber rock castings from Cripplebush Valley Models, which so far I'm very impressed with.  Modelling rock effectively has always been my kryponite and this product is very easy to work with.   I'm going for the feel of the scene instead of the exact rock formations and so far it looks good to my eye and took much less time than carving or using plaster molds.

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

This week I'll be starting work on the bridge itself, which is currently (since the 80's iirc) a deck girder structure.  I'm tempted to try the trestle seen in the picture but the girder bridge is a much easier affair in 1:300 scale so that's what I've decided to do this time.

I also picked up a wonderful book for reference, Kevin Holland's "White Pass & Yukon in Color", the source of the reference pic.  I only wish I was old enough to have seen the WP&Y when it was hauling ore and containers in decent volume, although the passenger business is keeping it busy these days. I'm very excitedly looking forward to visiting the prototype in the near future! 
Jesse

[Ed Kapuscinski]

It was an excellent weekend around here.

Started off doing some Harrisburg Line railfanning with my friend Ben (who I'm sure many of you know).

Spotted this guy in Columbia on the way to Reading.



Ate breakfast at Dosie Dough in Wyomissing (which I HIGHLY recommend to everyone as a convenient place to consumer sugar and carbohydrates while watching trains). https://dosiedough.com/wyomissing/



Of course, I engaged in a little label maker based mischief.



And then, to celebrate Earth Day I recycled some of my old Coal Country layout into a temporary turnback loop to do some more robust "testing" of what I've constructed so far in York.

[thomasjmdavis]

I had a very frustrating event. I had sprayed a passenger car with a water soluble acrylic from True Line Trains. Then I short a clear coat. I used Krylon gloss clear which said safe for plastics but I should have tested it first. My fault. I shot four cars, and on ONE car, just in one corner, this happened….



I get that there are compatibility issues with different paint types, and I should have tested on a throw away model, but I’m curious if anyone can offer insight as to why it didn’t happen on all 8 sides I shot, and instead just one corner of one side.

Craig.

The explanation above from motofavorite is much more concise than anything I could offer as to the "why" of what happened. 

But I do use a lot of acrylic paints, and have for years now, I can offer some advice.  From what I understand, the True Line paints were made for them by RPM, similar or identical to the Model Master acrylic paints made by RPM (and before that Testors), and are now out of production ( https://sites.google.com/a/truelinetrains.ca/tlt/paint-accessories/paints )  due to RPM shutting down production of most of their model paint lines (I wonder if this has anything to do with Rapido shutting down their paint line as well). I have used a lot of Model Master, especially "Blue Angel Blue"- similar to the blue that I see in your photo.

I did have a couple experiences similar to yours, early on 15ish years ago- when I started using Model Master, also with Krylon clear (although Krylon crystal clear remains my go to sealer).  My difficulties were due to 2 things- 1) the areas that showed the problem were places where the paint was thicker than other areas of the car and 2) I did not give enough drying time- plenty if it had been another coat of acrylic paint, but not enough for the acrylic to really 'cure' (again, see motofavorite's post for better terminology).

What I have found works for me is to allow at least 24 hours between paint and clear coat. I found even with water borne acrylic clears I get better results, as those sometimes "cloud" a bit if the paint under is not completely cured. I also allow 24 hours after applying decals, again to be absolutely sure no water is trapped under the clearcoat.

Of course, YMMV.

[Jesse6669]

Of course, I engaged in a little label maker based mischief.

I don't want to know what's happening with LOC A  ..   

[craigolio1]

Yikes. I hate when that happens. I wonder whether the acrylic was fully cured before the overcoat was applied. Acrylics need time for the latex to fully form its network and the hydrophilic solvent to evaporate. Lacquer too soon can interrupt the network formation and the remaining hydrophillic  solvent can act as a mask to the hydrophobic gloss.

I guess that’s possible too. I let it dry for four days I believe.

[craigolio1]

The explanation above from motofavorite is much more concise than anything I could offer as to the "why" of what happened. 

But I do use a lot of acrylic paints, and have for years now, I can offer some advice.  From what I understand, the True Line paints were made for them by RPM, similar or identical to the Model Master acrylic paints made by RPM (and before that Testors), and are now out of production ( https://sites.google.com/a/truelinetrains.ca/tlt/paint-accessories/paints )  due to RPM shutting down production of most of their model paint lines (I wonder if this has anything to do with Rapido shutting down their paint line as well). I have used a lot of Model Master, especially "Blue Angel Blue"- similar to the blue that I see in your photo.

I did have a couple experiences similar to yours, early on 15ish years ago- when I started using Model Master, also with Krylon clear (although Krylon crystal clear remains my go to sealer).  My difficulties were due to 2 things- 1) the areas that showed the problem were places where the paint was thicker than other areas of the car and 2) I did not give enough drying time- plenty if it had been another coat of acrylic paint, but not enough for the acrylic to really 'cure' (again, see motofavorite's post for better terminology).

What I have found works for me is to allow at least 24 hours between paint and clear coat. I found even with water borne acrylic clears I get better results, as those sometimes "cloud" a bit if the paint under is not completely cured. I also allow 24 hours after applying decals, again to be absolutely sure no water is trapped under the clearcoat.

Of course, YMMV.

In this case the paint had dried for four days before the clear coat which is longer than I usually allow for. I think it just have been because I put it on to heavily in that spot.

[davefoxx]

New video and pictures coming from this weekends work. Hemet depot scene developing.

If I were you, @chuck geiger, I'd scratchbuild the Hemet station.  It would be a styrene scratchbuild that's not too complex as far as the basic structure goes.  That station kit that you have appear as if the walls are too short, so the siding and trim detail will be missing.  That's a signature detail that should not be missed.  If, on the other hand, you are using that kit merely as a temporary stand-in, then carry on.

DFF

[apudelek]

After a month at work offshore and a week of sitting around at home doing nothing, I finally got off my bum and started my next project yesterday:  an MTL troop sleeper conversion to a NH express car.  While the original plan was to modify a Skytop Models resin shell, that plan was tossed when I found out Skytop is no longer in the business.  I tabled my plan for a bit to assess how I wanted to alter the original MTL shell.

Here is the car prototype; note the square window in the baggage door standard on the NH conversions:

http://images.yuku.com.s3.amazonaws.com/image/pjpeg/ecf269c2e907aa73f5ddff719c6034a8f92fcbbf.pjpg


After marking the intended opening of the door on the shell, I began by using my pin vise to drill numerous holes within the area.



Once I completed the drilling, I used a tapered file to expand the holes into a larger opening.  I felt I had more control than with an Exacto-Blade when I did this.  Here was the rough opening.



I used the tapered file again to expand the corners of the opening out to my desired positions for each.  I then switched to a flat file to clear the area in between the corners of the opening down to a more-or-less rectangle.  Once this was done, I reverted to my Exacto-Blade to trim the rough spots and straighten out any irregularities.  Looks okay so far...




Contemplating next steps...  Building the door (and the possibly tricky square window) and how I will plug/cover the remaining windows with styrene so it is backed properly.  Thinking about keeping the window inserts in and adding a thin layer of styrene with putty in the openings to support the outer styrene.

[chuck geiger]

If I were you, @chuck geiger, I'd scratchbuild the Hemet station.  It would be a styrene scratchbuild that's not too complex as far as the basic structure goes.  That station kit that you have appear as if the walls are too short, so the siding and trim detail will be missing.  That's a signature detail that should not be missed.  If, on the other hand, you are using that kit merely as a temporary stand-in, then carry on.

DFF

I have been fighting with myself with this for a year now. I was going to scratch it, then said this kit, then a Walthers Santa Fe brick depot that wasn't even prototypical. You are right DFF, I just picked up lots of Evergreen rods, strips and sheets. I have never built from styrene anything other than background buildings. It's a stand in now (lol).

[chuck geiger]

Foxy is like a motivator and always makes me better. Contacting the depot musuem.

San Jacinto District
Hi folks, I am building the ATSF/BNSF Hemet portion of the San Jac in N scale and I am going to scratchbuild the depot from styrene. I have a lot of pictures, but no plans, is there a building plan or diagram that includes the depot and the freight station you can share with me?

[OldEastRR]

After a month at work offshore and a week of sitting around at home doing nothing, I finally got off my bum and started my next project yesterday:  an MTL troop sleeper conversion to a NH express car.  While the original plan was to modify a Skytop Models resin shell, that plan was tossed when I found out Skytop is no longer in the business.  I tabled my plan for a bit to assess how I wanted to alter the original MTL shell.

Here is the car prototype; note the square window in the baggage door standard on the NH conversions:

http://images.yuku.com.s3.amazonaws.com/image/pjpeg/ecf269c2e907aa73f5ddff719c6034a8f92fcbbf.pjpg



Contemplating next steps...  Building the door (and the possibly tricky square window) and how I will plug/cover the remaining windows with styrene so it is backed properly.  Thinking about keeping the window inserts in and adding a thin layer of styrene with putty in the openings to support the outer styrene.

Here's my NH version from the MTL  car: (in the old paint scheme)

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/29/2970-020522201345.jpeg[/img]]

I used JB Weld epoxy to fill the window holes. put plastic on the outside of the car walls and tape down a stiff piece of styrene or cardboard to keep the plastic wrap flat and tight, Then mix  up the JB epoxy and fill in the windows from the inside. Do only one side at a time and let the epoxy set up hard before doing the other. Strip the stuff off the outside walls when the epoxy is hard.

For the door use a plain piece of sheet styrene. I made mine a little bigger than the opening so I could glue it in (the door is inset). For the window, use the glass from the smallest side windows (at the left end of the car in the picture)  as your square door window. Cutoff a single widow, use it to mark and cut out the square hole in the door.

Don't forget the driprail above the door  and  the  small tag board slot next to it (both made of thin styrene strip). Also cover the windows in the end doors.

My model has almost the same trucks as your proto picture. The Allied full Cushions went byebye in the'50s. If you want trucks like mine they're modified MTL BX Express trucks -- I shortened the extended tongue holding the coupler box. This is because I wanted truck mounts. If you go with body mounts, you can just cut off the coupler extension on the truck.

[Kentuckian]

Foxy is like a motivator and always makes me better. Contacting the depot musuem.

Yes, an encourager that gives constructive criticism without making you feel feel like an idiot. A rare gift.

[thomasjmdavis]

Foxy is like a motivator and always makes me better. Contacting the depot musuem.

San Jacinto District
Hi folks, I am building the ATSF/BNSF Hemet portion of the San Jac in N scale and I am going to scratchbuild the depot from styrene. I have a lot of pictures, but no plans, is there a building plan or diagram that includes the depot and the freight station you can share with me?

Chuck, I imagine you are aware of the article on Hemet by John Signor in the 1st Quarter 2021 issue of the SFRHMS Warbonnet (maybe an inspiration for your project?). You might try contacting John Signor and/or the SFRHMS to see if they have more information on the structures. The article does have a map of the Hemet area that shows the location of railway structures and a number of industries, and the track plan. If you don't have a copy, back issues are probably available (I've always had good luck ordering).

The depot is apparently still there (I am in Michigan, so I can't go look...), and in use as a museum. http://atsf.railfan.net/depots/hemet.html  They might be able to provide you with drawings or at least more information on dimensions and details.