Best springy wire

[Bill H]

Group;
Struggling a bit searching for suggestions for a springy wire. I am using electrical slide switches that have either a 2.5mm or 2mm travel to move the points on fast tracks turnouts that have 1.25mm travel. The idea was to connect the plastic thumb of the slide switch with the turnout throw bar with a wire that has a "v" or "z" bend in it to absorb the difference in the throw as well as hold the points tight. So far both .015 and .020 piano wire does not seem to have enough "spring" in it. Would phosphor bronze wire be better?

Kind regards,
Bill

[garethashenden]

Smaller wire will deflect more, you can try guitar string wire. Top E strings are usually 0.011", but there's some variation available.

I think the real problem is the bend. You want an Omega loop. Bend the wire in the shape of the Greek letter Omega: Ω

[Angus Shops]

It sounds like you’re working on pretty much exactly what I’m using. I use .0125 phosphor bronze wire with (typically) a “square U” shaped bend in the wire to absorb the difference in the point throw and the switch movement. I’m using Fastracks switches so the PB wire can be soldered directly to the throw bar on the switch. When soldering I centre the points between the stock rails and put the ‘handle’ on the slide switch in ‘dead centre’ so that the PB bend is either in tension or compression depending on which way the points are thrown. The .0125 has enough strength to keep the points firmly in place but not too much to over stress the solder joint between the point and the throw bar. I also drill a slightly over size hole in the slide switch ‘handle’ (which I also cut shorter so it’s not so obvious). A bit of paint and some careful ballast or ‘dirt’ around the slide switch and the whole works is actually pretty well camouflaged.
Simple, inexpensive, and woks well.

[davefoxx]

When I was in N scale, I installed my slide switch turnout throws like this:



It minimized the visual impact by being installed next to the throw bar rather than inline with it.  This also required no special bends in the wire (I used piano wire), because the wire could pivot in the slide switch, which took up any slack, and, allowing the slide switch’s full throw, it kept the points tight to the stock rails.

Hope this helps,
DFF

[Scottl]

When I was in N scale, I installed my slide switch turnout throws like this:



It minimized the visual impact by being installed next to the throw bar rather than inline with it.  This also required no special bends in the wire (I used piano wire), because the wire could pivot in the slide switch, which took up any slack, and, allowing the slide switch’s full throw, it kept the points tight to the stock rails.

Hope this helps,
DFF

Dave, did you use the switch contacts as well? I really like this approach and was planning something like this (disguised with switch machine cover) but want to use the switch for the frog and position detection.

[davefoxx]

Dave, did you use the switch contacts as well? I really like this approach and was planning something like this (disguised with switch machine cover) but want to use the switch for the frog and position detection.

No, I used Hex Frog Juicers, but I could have easily used the switch contacts.

DFF

[Scottl]

Thanks, I thought so.

[dem34]

And if you want to be a little extra, Keystone details has a selection of 3D printed covers that fit over standard switch sizes that disguise them as pneumatic motors.

[NtheBasement]

I've done it two ways on Pecos, big hole or bendy wire.

[Sumner]

.... Keystone details has a selection of 3D printed covers that fit over standard switch sizes that disguise them as pneumatic motors....

If you have a printer or access to one I've got a number of .....



... objects that can fit over a SPDT switch to camouflage it and give you something larger to push back and forth to throw the turnout.  You can also print a platform with nothing on it and glue what you want on it ....

.... more here ....

http://1fatgmc.com/RailRoad/Trackwork/page-18.html

Sumner

[mmagliaro]

Group;
Struggling a bit searching for suggestions for a springy wire. I am using electrical slide switches that have either a 2.5mm or 2mm travel to move the points on fast tracks turnouts that have 1.25mm travel. The idea was to connect the plastic thumb of the slide switch with the turnout throw bar with a wire that has a "v" or "z" bend in it to absorb the difference in the throw as well as hold the points tight. So far both .015 and .020 piano wire does not seem to have enough "spring" in it. Would phosphor bronze wire be better?

Kind regards,
Bill

Phosphor bronze wire will not have the spring strength of steel piano wire.
.015" or .020" steel wire should have plenty of spring force for an N Scale set of points, so I agree that the problem must be in the shape or size of your "v" or "z". 

How are you "connecting" the wire to the thumb of the slide switch?  That is a BIG deal.  If you drill a hole in the thumb to insert the wire, it needs to be a MINIMUM hole so the wire press-fits into it very tightly.  Any wobbling of the wire in the hole at all will eat up all your spring force.  The same is true of the hole you drill in the throwbar.  A .015" wire should go into a .015" hole, and not one bit bigger.

Can you post a close-up picture of how you set one up?

[Ed Kapuscinski]

One thing I found when engineering my K-Mounts is that employing a lever action (like a Tortoise does) is quite handy when setting this type of thing up.

That said, I think I've been using .015 K&S wire.

[Scottl]

@Ed Kapuscinski , can you remind us where you posted those mounts?

[Bill H]

Phosphor bronze wire will not have the spring strength of steel piano wire.
.015" or .020" steel wire should have plenty of spring force for an N Scale set of points, so I agree that the problem must be in the shape or size of your "v" or "z". 

How are you "connecting" the wire to the thumb of the slide switch?  That is a BIG deal.  If you drill a hole in the thumb to insert the wire, it needs to be a MINIMUM hole so the wire press-fits into it very tightly.  Any wobbling of the wire in the hole at all will eat up all your spring force.  The same is true of the hole you drill in the throwbar.  A .015" wire should go into a .015" hole, and not one bit bigger.

Can you post a close-up picture of how you set one up?

Max:
Indeed the hole size in the thumb may be the problem. I am going to try to drill the hole with a #79 bit this weekend and will update the result. Thanks.

Kind regards,
Bill

[randgust]

If you've doing a Caboose-style spring throw, maybe a switch, I've evolved to a 'loop' rather than omega or z-bend, as there is no sharp angle to break in the wire.   I use .015 phosphor brass spring wire.   I used to just link them straight and after I broke two throw bars, tried a Z-bend, broke that, circles are still working.

Nothing against the slide switches, they are superior if you need to power the frog and can get the wires in there.   I find that the Peco springs aren't quite hard enough to make sure the points have electrical contact, and depending on the internal Caboose spring is too stiff and breaks stuff.