Loksound V5 Kato USA into a Kato RS-2

[dpharris]

These are beautiful decoders! 
I want to fit one into a Kato RS-2.  Here is the RS-2 with DC board removed:
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And here it is with the V5 test fit:
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As you can see the left end fit nicely into the slots for track power, but the right end is interfered with by the other slotted piece (blue arrow). 
I plan to remove some of that latter piece (red rectangle) to allow the board to lie flat, and also some at the left end (red rectangle) to allow more room for a speaker. 
I am not sure whether I can just use the built-in smd LEDs, or I will need to fit the supplied LEDs to get closer to the ends. 

Comments/Questions:
1. I had some trouble loading the sound into this decoder, it kept failing with my MacBppk with Virtualbox Windows, and did succeed after several tries with VmWare and Win10. 
2. Any comments on the above fit? 
3. Should I add additional caps for dropout protection?  If so, how, as it is not clear to me on the diagram. 

Thanks, David
 

[RBrodzinsky]

If you are just adding caps, use the U+ and the GND pads to connect the caps.  Not sure where you would put them, try running without them, first.

Make sure the shell will fit down properly over the board in the front, preferably before cutting metal.  The mounted LED should provide sufficient light.

[peteski]

I cringe when I see a PC board with all those tiny SMD components being bent like that.  I would never do that.

[RBrodzinsky]

And these come with a big warning label

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[dpharris]

Good thing I am naive, then!  It is really a gentle bend, so I don't think anything has happened.  I runs fine on the tester. 

But thanks for the warning, though -- forewarned is good.  Will let you know if I screwed the pooch. 

David

[Steveruger45]

Where is the speaker going to go?

[dpharris]

I will try the speaker under the big part of the decoder (to the left on the picture, where the speaker wires come off the decoder).  There is not a lot of room, but I have a resin 3d printer to make a custom speaker box, so am hoping it works out.  I will cut that area back so its flush with the other side.  I do have a selection of speakers available.  If not, ... then there is the fuel tank

[peteski]

Good thing I am naive, then!  It is really a gentle bend, so I don't think anything has happened.  I runs fine on the tester. 

But thanks for the warning, though -- forewarned is good.  Will let you know if I screwed the pooch. 

David

Sure, it still works now.  But hairline fractures could develop during flexing, either in the components: like those multilayer ceramic capacitors, any of the semiconductor components, or in the solder joints.  It might bite you in the future.  Like the warning label says: these are complex delicate sub-miniature electronic circuits - handle with care.

[dpharris]

Agreed.  Thanks. 

[dpharris]

Here's a short video of the result of installing a loksound 5 Micro for Kato USA into an N-scale Kato RS-2. 

[[[ Edited: Better video.  Use captions.  ]]]

[dpharris]

I 'milled' my frame with a file, taking off the forward section that blocked the decoder, and filing down the rear to just allow the worm-gear springs to remain. 
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I also made a 3d-printed speaker-box, and made some motor-wipers from brass sheet.  Here is the RS-2 put back together. 
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In fact, on assembly with the shell, I found that the front light was obscurred, and so I reduced the size of the speaker-box from the one on the left, to the one on the right, below.  In addition, I formed a light-pipe from a short length of fibre-optic tube with its ends heated to form lenses, and fixed it into position between the decoder-LED and the front headlight lens.  This worked well.  The rear light s dim, too, so I may try the same in that location. 
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Over-all, I am very pleased with it.  The sound file is great.  My speakers could be better.  The two 10x7mm speakers were 25 ohm, so the two in parallel were still 12 ohms.  I plan pn ordering some more speakers, likely 15x9mm, 8 ohm.

David

[dpharris]

Changed up the video for a better one.