So far what is your favorite resin for detail?

[bbussey]

You’re getting some curl-up of the sides at the ends because your car ends are still attached. Note all of the boards sweeping up slightly between the last vertical brace and the end, on both sides.

You’re going to have to print the ends separately. I discovered that early on. Eventually you will realize that too.

You may be able to get away with printing the car horizontally. But vertically is the best option because as Tony stated the FEP suction stays constant when the cross section of the model stays constant.

Is this the AnyCubic resin or still the other stuff?

[bbussey]

I’m getting a very slight slant on the G32B vertical posts, even less than what you’re getting on the K7 end slats, but it’s there if you look hard enough. I believe it’s due to the thicker width chord on top of the ends. I’m going to add a membrane along the bottom of the carbody and add a lower chord below the membrane, at the same thickness and width of the top chord, to insure the FEP suction is constant.

[Lemosteam]

You’re getting some curl-up of the sides at the ends because your car ends are still attached. Note all of the boards sweeping up slightly between the last vertical brace and the end, on both sides.

You’re going to have to print the ends separately. I discovered that early on. Eventually you will realize that too.

You may be able to get away with printing the car horizontally. But vertically is the best option because as Tony stated the FEP suction stays constant when the cross section of the model stays constant.

Is this the AnyCubic resin or still the other stuff?

Nope. I had separation from the membrane on all four corners so I am filling that in. The board slat wires are allowing the horizontals to bow, you can see they separated at the lower levels.

When I play the slices there are only minor variations between them. I am also using 0.03mm layers. The bloom has reduced significantly. This print also has vertical ribs, just shy of the top layers which helped prevent the sides from deflecting. One has to think that the pressure expands each cavity as the plate moves up and down, like putting your hand on a balloon. These help to prevent that, especially as I progress to the X23 without the open slats.

The waves in the walls are also gone. If I can end up printing this repeatably, I will stick with this orientation now that I have settled on all of the other parts.

All of the board gaps are there, save for the two near the upper left, which I think was caused by a large separation on the corner on that end that you cannot see.

If I print these as kits, I will have to print multiples of the same file to avoid the suction issue as opposed to printing one  or two kits at a time.

This is the remains of the Siraya.

[bbussey]

I fill the print plate to capacity.  Doesn't seem to matter regarding suction distortion if one instance of the model is printing or many instances.

[narrowminded]

Remember, the printer is inside a cabinet that I keep closed while printing. The lift handles are hot to the touch when I open it up.you can see the micro ceramic heater on the shelf below.

Just in case, John...  The resin can also be too hot which aggravates the bloom.  The preferred range for the Siryatech resin is something like 74 degrees to 86 degrees.  That should be verified but if not correct it will be close.  Colder requires more exposure time and hotter I assume would want less.  What I've been doing, printing in a pretty consistently 70 degree room, is to warm the resin and build plate in front of a very small space heater while I'm prepping to run.  That brings the resin to about 72 degrees but I put the aluminum build plate directly in front of the heater and let it get up to +/- 100 degrees F.  By the time I'm ready to run I install it in the machine and let that extra heat in the aluminum plate warm the resin in the vat while I'm homing the Z axis.  I'll check the temp after it sits in there a minute or so and if it has settled out at 74-76 degrees measured in the vat, I go ahead and start.  The heat generated from the normal running maintains that temp and even climbs a little but generally no more than 80- 82 degrees F.  Only when printing a plastic injection mold from ceramic filled resin that requires a longer exposure time as well as very thick walls did I exceed the ideal temperature before the print was done.  And that got to about 88 degrees by the time the print was done. 

[Lemosteam]

Well, it’s a crappy color, and a crappier still paint job from the shop, but the K7 proves the print style, assembly and viability, despite the fact I am waiting to reprint the slats in the AC resin. I have just lost all faith in the Siraya resin.

If I can’t get the AC resin to print the horizontal board gaps, I’m moving on to a legitimate PRR X23 kit using the same print orientations for the parts.

Here she is in all her ugliness:

[peteski]

John,  Why are you using the Siraya Fast resin in the first place? What are its advantages compared to to other resins?

[Lemosteam]

John,  Why are you using the Siraya Fast resin in the first place? What are its advantages compared to to other resins?

My machine did not come with resin. I watched some suggested videos at the beginning and bought some so I could start printing.

It is only now that I have enough money to investigate different resins, especially based on Gary’s, Chris’, and Bryan’s (among others) successes.

[Lemosteam]

So I conceded the K7 design to Shapeways, and I am not disappointed; the kit as printed is perfect. I have to clean it but the side plank gaps are perfect as designed. The roof snapped in place after (intentionally) drilling out the alignment tabs.

I will finish the kit after cleaning and I think that I would never have been able to do this in SLA, and I tried but only came close.

Pics below are pre cleaning.

Side view of boards:


Under frame:


Stand-off ladders and end detai:


The trucks are printed inside he shell with a loose gap to the sprue, as removed from inside the car:


Trucks removed from the sprue:


View of roof alignment bosses inside car walls:


Roof and shell assembled.


I think I will be able to print the X23 kit on SLA nicely when the design is completed.