Impass tring to mount turnout servos to the underside of a layout

[Sumner]

But that assumes one has access or owns a 3d printer (which are few and far between) and isn't using servos.
And it also assumes that one isn't setup for CTC (Centralized Traffic Control) operation as opposed to 'local control' (Interlocking Towers).

The tools shown could easily be made without a printer.  I just put them up as examples since others were also providing suggestions.  I also gave two examples of using basically the same tools.  One of which was using servos.

From the past I know that what I'm using would not fit your situation  .

Sumner

[Jim Costello]

Sorry, I do not have any photos showing how I mounted the servos . The 3D printed servo locator from 'Sumner' is a more advanced tool than my wire on a block of wood.
You can also trim the bracket to fit in tight areas..I have cut off corners, redrilled holes etc.
I have used a gel CA glue, Acrylic construction adhesive and the like.
I spoke to Jeff from Motrak at a NMRA convention about 5 -6 years ago. He was aware of the sagging issue and was trying to come up with a alternative mount. I was not aware
that the newer version was available. We have been a dealer of the Tam Valley products and the Motrak brackets since the TVD products became available.

Jim  NHRHTA  #L082
Modelling the NH down under

[bbussey]

I’ve always used servos with Tam Valley singlet decoders. I used to use throw rods similar to above, but I’ve recently started using DuBro push/pull cables and clevises instead. Allows the servos to not be mounted directly under the turnout points, beneficial when points are bunched up such as with double crossovers. The servos are mounted to simple wood blocks yellow-glued to the table underside. For long runs, I feed the cable housing through brass tubing.

[videobruce]

Jim;
One problem with the new Motrak  design is there is no provision for the cable exiting the base of the servo enclosure, it's blocked by the base of the additional post. I wasn't aware of this and had to cut off the top of the post so the cable was free as I didn't want to try to cram it between that post and the servo. But that defeats the purpose of the 2nd attachment point, but I didn't see any other easy way.

[Jim Costello]

 I went for the Tam Valley 3D printed units.They are solid units and with the micro switch fitted saves on the relay and running a wire from the control panel to the point frog.
 Again I use some glue to help hold the servo in place as well as the servo mounting screw supplied. They are not currently available but there must be different versions out there.
There have been many ideas on servo mounting over the years. Bbussey' method  of using RC control links and cable also work a treat for those hard to get to installations and I know of
modellers using this idea on top of layout and servo mounted on the edge. Scenery covers the linkage.

The 'secret' to good and easy setup is to make sure the wire from the base of the mounting bracket through the baseboard and turnout is as vertical as you can get it and that the servo horn controlling this wire
is mounted on the centre of the servo, using the centring tool. Adjusting the throw is then so much easier.

Jim  NHRHTA  #L082
Modelling the NH down under.

[videobruce]

The 'secret' to good and easy setup is to make sure the wire from the base of the mounting bracket through the baseboard and turnout is as vertical as you can get it.

That is easier said then done since I'm running the music wire down from the turnout, not up from the horn so it's easier to make one sharp 90 degree bend to hold the wire from dropping thru the throw rod of the turnout. IOW's, gravity not working against me.
I see all those sharp bends in these examples others have done and can't see a way of making multiple bends using the music wire I have.

[Jim Costello]

I am sorry you have not understood my original post.  I use the block of wood with the vertical wire to mount the servo bracket directly under the throwbar hole. Once this is in place you can push the music wire through the tie bar down through the hole in the bracket. Make sure the music wire is long enough so you can work with it, insert the servo horn onto the music wire, the right way up and using pliers bend the wire about the servo horn.Measure correctly and it will work correctly.Then you can mount it to the servo. Use masking tape or similar to hold the wire in place above the track  rather than bending it at 90 degree

Jim  NHRHTA  #L082
Modelling the NH down under

[videobruce]

Sorry, I was referring to using the 60+ Motrak mounts that I already have. I paid more for the mounts than I did for the servos. 
Also, those 2 blocks of wood takes up far more real estate that just the mount which is more of a problem with many of the locations.