Weekend Update 12/5/21

[brokemoto]

For those of you who have worked on these LL models before, what have you done for the Micro-Trains coupler conversion?

I used Unimates on the B end.  For the pilot, I used 2004s, but not with the best results.  Fortunately, I ran the LLs that I had A-B, so the front coupler was not that important.  I did manage to make the 2004s work, but it took some shimming and careful cutting.  In the end, though, I was somewhat less than delighted with the result.  They functioned, but that is the best that I can state for them.  MT recommends something else, but I forget what it is.  I could not find anyone who had the kits, at the time, so I tried what I had in my MT box.

I forget exactly what I did to make the 2004s work.  I have long since sold all of my LL and Kato PAs.

I am glad to see that I am not the only one who has problems with finicky BLI power, especially the diesels.  They reminded me of my Atlas-Kato no flywheel power.  When they ran, they ran well, but were far too prone to stalling.  The only way that I could address the A/K problem was hardwiring pairs together.  I guess that you could do that on BLI power, but it would be a task.  My solution was to sell my BLI diesels.  I still have the steam, though.

I was totally baffled by the frequent stalling of the Baldwin Centipedes.  You would think that with all of those "legs", at least two would always be in contact.

[C855B]

... I am glad to see that I am not the only one who has problems with finicky BLI power, especially the diesels. ...

It's their insistence on traction tires. Aside from insulating the tired wheels, they also lift the center wheel on 3-axle bogies, making contact there unreliable as well. I've started replacing BLI wheelsets with Kato, but that's been an on-again, off-again project and I haven't done enough to report whether the whole idea is successful and worth my time and expense.

[CRL]

OK, how did you do it?  The partially cleared window effect.

I noticed that and said wow, but then noticed the wipers were too short to have made those marks. We have a conundrum here… or my OCD is kicking in again.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Weathering is mostly done on the FP10. I may have gone a little overboard with the grime. I wanted to show the engine during its last weeks of service. It still needs horns mirrors and MU details. The chassis is being modified to allow for the marker lights to be lit. The headlight hasn't fully dried yet.

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[peteski]

OK, how did you do it?  The partially cleared window effect.

Customarily this is done with pieces of masking tape cut into the shape of wiper's sweep area applied before weathering, and before wipers are installed. Then weather, peel off the mask, then install wipers.  In N scale, this requires some precise cutting.

I'm also curious how the masks were cut.

[peteski]

Weathering is mostly done on the FP10. I may have gone a little overboard with the grime. I wanted to show the engine during its last weeks of service. It still needs horns mirrors and MU details. The chassis is being modified to allow for the marker lights to be lit. The headlight hasn't fully dried yet.

Looks really good Daniel, and I agree that the weathering might be a touch too heavy. Or to be more specific, I can see the individual droplets of weathering (it seems to have a "dot" texture, especially on the roof).  In real life it would be a homogeneous layer of grime.

[altohorn25]

OK, how did you do it?  The partially cleared window effect.

I masked the windows with a small piece of masking tape before I weathered the units.  After weathering, I installed the windshield wipers.

[altohorn25]

Customarily this is done with pieces of masking tape cut into the shape of wiper's sweep area applied before weathering, and before wipers are installed. Then weather, peel off the mask, then install wipers.  In N scale, this requires some precise cutting.

I'm also curious how the masks were cut.

A very sharp pair of scissors and a lot of bad words...... 

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Looks really good Daniel, and I agree that the weathering might be a touch too heavy. Or to be more specific, I can see the individual droplets of weathering (it seems to have a "dot" texture, especially on the roof).  In real life it would be a homogeneous layer of grime.

It does look mottled in the pictures. It isn't as bad in person, but not ideal. I'm not sure why either. I used the same grime mix a few weeks ago for a tank car and it came out fine. I may try and mute it with gray or black chalk powders.

[Kentuckian]

It's their insistence on traction tires. Aside from insulating the tired wheels, they also lift the center wheel on 3-axle bogies, making contact there unreliable as well. I've started replacing BLI wheelsets with Kato, but that's been an on-again, off-again project and I haven't done enough to report whether the whole idea is successful and worth my time and expense.

If you ask BLI nicely they will send you replacement regular axles for the traction-tired ones at no charge.

[peteski]

A very sharp pair of scissors and a lot of bad words...... 

That's what I suspected. Thanks!   
On a serious note, I wonder if one of the computer-controller cutters (like Silhouette) could be used to make cutting multiple masks without much cussing? 

[peteski]

It does look mottled in the pictures. It isn't as bad in person, but not ideal. I'm not sure why either. I used the same grime mix a few weeks ago for a tank car and it came out fine. I may try and mute it with gray or black chalk powders.

Interesting.  I'm glad it looks good viewed in-person.  Grime mix looked good on the tank car? Maybe you used different air pressure, or different size nozzle opening?  Or maybe different brand paint on the model's surface caused the wet grime mix not to spread out as well as on the tank car?

[Cajonpassfan]

If you ask BLI nicely they will send you replacement regular axles for the traction-tired ones at no charge.

I did that on a number of my six axle units. Big improvement.
Otto

[brokemoto]

It does look mottled in the pictures. It isn't as bad in person, but not ideal. I'm not sure why either. I used the same grime mix a few weeks ago for a tank car and it came out fine. I may try and mute it with gray or black chalk powders.

I  rode behind (or in front of, in push mode) those things.  The real thing looked mottled and dirty, anyhow, so I would not sweat it, especially considering that you weathered it.   Nice job on it.

If you ask BLI nicely they will send you replacement regular axles for the traction-tired ones at no charge.

Thank you for the update.

[up1950s]

That's what I suspected. Thanks!   
On a serious note, I wonder if one of the computer-controller cutters (like Silhouette) could be used to make cutting multiple masks without much cussing?

Or maybe those Cherieos shaped loose lief hole reinforcements as a shape to put over masking tape , at least as a arc starting guide ?