Weekend Update 8/8/21

[ednadolski]

Don't get me started about deer. Last week. $5K and counting.

(Attachment Link)

Could have been worse tho, when that kind of hit occurs in the wrong place, it can total the car.

(also presuming on my part that no one was injured)

Ed

[Maletrain]

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]


Um, that code 3000 rail looks a little large, even for G scale.   

Seriously, really nice looking caboose - both of them.

[C855B]

Could have been worse tho, when that kind of hit occurs in the wrong place, it can total the car.

(also presuming on my part that no one was injured)

Nobody hurt, although Robyn has been pretty skittish about our driving at night since then. And you're right, if it hit hard enough to trigger the airbags and smash into the sliding door, it would be all over for the van.

Funny-ish part is we've been driving it up to our cabin since the hit, and on the last outing some of the remaining broken bits decided to loosen and rub the tire just as we were pulling into a gas station. Good thing I keep a mini-Leatherman in the luggage, I had to use the saw blade to cut the fender liner loose. Must have been quite a sight as I was hunched over into the wheel well while filling the tank, sawing away at something and pulling hard on big chunks of plastic from under the van. 

[Cajonpassfan]

Very. I’ve @SP-Wolf!
Otto

[nkalanaga]

W Neal:  I have a pair of those, bought new.  They really need to be lowered, unless you bought them as collectables.  If you have wide enough curves (at least 15 inch radius), here's how I did it.

I found that the easiest way to do that was to forget about being neat, and just cut the floor out over the trucks.  Cut it all the way to the end, but DON'T cut the end sill.

Glue a piece of styrene to the inside of the floor, in top of the "ledges" along the sides.  Trim the sides of the removed piece, and glue it to the underside of that plastic piece.  The car should sit at about the right height.  You still have the original bolster, so the trucks should fit fine.

You will have to body mount the couplers.  I reused the truck mounted ones.  Just cut them off, possibly trim the back corners for truck swing clearance, and screw them to the floor.  You might need a small shim.  Trim the end sill for clearance, just enough of a notch that the coupler will sit flat.

Other than painting the visible end of the coupler box, you're done!

[up1950s]

did you mean 8/8/21?

Thanks , and sorry .

[Pomperaugrr]

I was able to get the base coat of paint on my N scale Housatonic RS3M #9935 and my GP9M #7324. I still need to do touch up, gloss coat, decals and dull coat, then reinstall glass, headlights, etc. The day after I took these shots, I found a great shot of the #7324, which showed that the prototype did not have a steam generator, but the N scale shell I was able to source for this project did have the two domes. 

I have removed them without doing too much damage to other details and will need to repaint the short hood, once I finish smoothing out the modifications.

[ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[w neal]

Hard to picture the procedure. Got any links or pics?

[Jbub]

The Evanston Roundhouse Festival was a hit. There were 3 N scale layouts, 2 HO, 1 O (3rail) and 1 S (American flyer). Not much in the way of vendors and hardly anything N scale for sale. There is a historical society of sorts that recently moved UP 4420, an 0-6-0 switcher to the roundhouse and they are in the process of restoring it to operational condition.

Here are a few pictures from our (Wasatch N Scale) layout.

[gi-depp]

Finished my poject yesterday

[Jbub]

Finished my poject yesterday

You should do a "how to" guide. I'm sure there are a lot of modern guys who have thought about doing this.

[Jim Costello]

Jbub, The rock walls on the Wasatch N  layout; are they from rubber moulds or are they hand crafted in place. If from moulds
what brand was used? Very impressed and would suit a section on my layout.

Jim. NHRHTA  #L082
Modelling the NH down under

[nkalanaga]

W Neal:  No, but I can get some this weekend, if you still need them.  Basically, pull the cover off, and you'll see what is needed.  The inside of the side sills is stepped, with a narrow upper portion and wider lower portion.  Cut two pieces of thick plastic ( I used 0.060) to sit on that step.  Make sure they fit snugly, and are long enough to reach past the inside axles, mine were just under an inch long.  Remove these and set them aside.

Now, from the underside, cut the floor loose from the side sills, and across just in front of the first crossbearer inside the truck, and at the end sill.  Don't remove the end sill.  These cuts don't need to be real pretty, just save the bolsters.  The best way is to cut the sides from the inside, so you don't remove the ledge.  Make the cross cuts from the underside, so you can see where you're cutting.  Clean up the cut edges on the car, so nothing interferes with the trucks.  Also clean the top of the removed pieces, so they can sit flat.

Glue the two filler pieces into the car, on top of the ledges, and let them dry.  Once these are solid, you can glue the cut-out floor pieces to the underside of the fillers, making sure the bolsters are in  the right places, and centered.   When those are dry, put the trucks on, after removing the couplers, and measure the end sill for coupler height.  Make a notch to clear the coupler box you're using, add any shims needed to the floor, and screw the couplers on.

The inside will be rather ugly, but with the cover on, it can't be seen anyway.

I replaced the weight in mine with a couple stick-on lead weights.

[NtheBasement]

Jbub, The rock walls on the Wasatch N  layout; are they from rubber moulds or are they hand crafted in place. If from moulds
what brand was used? Very impressed and would suit a section on my layout.

Jim. NHRHTA  #L082
Modelling the NH down under

That rock work is excellent, caught my eye immediately.  The way the strata line up it is almost certainly hand carved, probably Sculptamold.

[Jbub]

That rock work is excellent, caught my eye immediately.  The way the strata line up it is almost certainly hand carved, probably Sculptamold.

Jbub, The rock walls on the Wasatch N  layout; are they from rubber moulds or are they hand crafted in place. If from moulds
what brand was used? Very impressed and would suit a section on my layout.

Jim. NHRHTA  #L082
Modelling the NH down under

Yes, it's an impressive module for sure. I'll have to ask to be sure, but I think it's all hand carved plaster and a beast of a thing to move around. It's a very close representation of this area

https://www.google.com/maps/dir//41.1384725,-111.8591663/@41.1385426,-111.8606207,484m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m2!4m1!3e0?hl=en