To make PRR B6 from Rapido or Bachmann 0-6-0 ?

[propmeup1]

Question for the DCC conversion brains out there. I'd like to do a PRR B6 0-6-0 for DCC and sound.  I have two Rapido from back in the early 70's.  Thought about getting a Bachmann which I don't believe is DCC ready either. 
    So question is, which one of these two would be the best bet to transform into a PRR B6 with sound.   All the cosmetic work is not an issue. It's the DCC and sound part for me to do a none DCC ready loco.  I've put many decoders in a DCC ready but not an old DC loco.

Thanks in advance,

KTB

[garethashenden]

Whichever one runs better I would think. DCC isn’t going to mask a poor running locomotive, actually having sound will make pickup problems even more notable. So I would go with the current generation of the Bachman model.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Whichever one runs better I would think. DCC isn’t going to mask a poor running locomotive, actually having sound will make pickup problems even more notable. So I would go with the current generation of the Bachman model.

Oh man, I would LOVE to see a build of one using the new Bachmann model.

I think the secret is to cram as many keep alives as possible into it.

[mike_lawyer]

I vote for the Bachmann 0-6-0.  It has a modern frame and is a much better mechanism.  I've been wanting to do a B6 for a while, and will be anxiously watching your build.  I would think there should be enough room in a tender for sound.

[Mark5]

Well, the Arnold Rapidos have massive flanges (if that is a factor for you).

[mmagliaro]

Hands-down, I'd use the Bachmann.  You are going to have to make massive cosmetic changes either way to make this look like a PRR B6 (valve gear, firebox, cab, rods, domes are pretty much all wrong).  But at least the Bachmann engine has fine-flanged drivers and a much smoother mechanism with finer gears than the old Rapido one. As for DCC, switch out the tender for one of the Bachmann slope-back tenders with all-wheel pickup.  You will have to hard-wire the decoder in there, as there is no board like there is on the other Bachmann "dcc ready" tenders.  And you'll have to do some cobbling to make the drawbar work.  But all-wheel tender pickup is a MUST in an 0-6-0.

If you read the page on Spookshow's review site, you'll note some comments about accessing the motor terminals to isolate them from the frame.  You will have to remove the motor and do some frame grinding and insulating so that you can intercept the wiring path to those motor terminals.  But again, if you are planning on making this into a B6, I am assuming you are more than up to the challenge since there will be a good bit of frame and body chopping anyway.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Hands-down, I'd use the Bachmann.  You are going to have to make massive cosmetic changes either way to make this look like a PRR B6 (valve gear, firebox, cab, rods, domes are pretty much all wrong).

Why not just put the Trix shell on the Bachmann drive? That'll get you a lot closer to start from, right?

[mmagliaro]

Why not just put the Trix shell on the Bachmann drive? That'll get you a lot closer to start from, right?

The Trix shell is much closer than the Bachmann. The cab is too big, but I left it alone on my Trix "upgrade", and other than that,
it gets you the Belpaire firebox, walkways, and domes in the correct places.

And although it is a metal shell, you can grind off the molded piping and add all free-standing wire details (although again, this was some time ago, and I didn't bother in this example)

I was more focused on the valve gear and rods, which are crude on all three (the  Trix, Bachmann, and Arnold ).

I think you have a good idea, Ed.  If the Trix shell will fit, it's a much closer and easier starting point.

I left the Trix mechanism in there on mine years ago, and just remotored it and put all-wheel pickup under an old Bachmann slope-back tender (they are brass import trucks, cut apart and modified to get all-wheel with no wipers)
Just cutting down the flanges and darkening all the shiney metal goes a long way.

But that valve gear... LOL!

[Ed Kapuscinski]

If you want a new cab, I think there might be good options on Shapeways.

[propmeup1]

I forgot about the Trix shell. I may have one around here somewhere.  I too was thinking Bachmann due to being newer and the flanges. so we're all pretty much on the same page. Now time is the factor.  Thank for the info.

[mike_lawyer]

Hands-down, I'd use the Bachmann.  You are going to have to make massive cosmetic changes either way to make this look like a PRR B6 (valve gear, firebox, cab, rods, domes are pretty much all wrong).  But at least the Bachmann engine has fine-flanged drivers and a much smoother mechanism with finer gears than the old Rapido one. As for DCC, switch out the tender for one of the Bachmann slope-back tenders with all-wheel pickup.  You will have to hard-wire the decoder in there, as there is no board like there is on the other Bachmann "dcc ready" tenders.  And you'll have to do some cobbling to make the drawbar work.  But all-wheel tender pickup is a MUST in an 0-6-0.

If you read the page on Spookshow's review site, you'll note some comments about accessing the motor terminals to isolate them from the frame.  You will have to remove the motor and do some frame grinding and insulating so that you can intercept the wiring path to those motor terminals.  But again, if you are planning on making this into a B6, I am assuming you are more than up to the challenge since there will be a good bit of frame and body chopping anyway.

Definitely upgrade to one of the Spectrum slope-backed tenders, as Max said.  Makes a huge difference in pickup ability.  Max, how would you go about changing the valve gear on the Bachmann?

[mmagliaro]

Definitely upgrade to one of the Spectrum slope-backed tenders, as Max said.  Makes a huge difference in pickup ability.  Max, how would you go about changing the valve gear on the Bachmann?

You want to know how I would do it, or how it might most easily be done?   
I think if I were doing it, I would just bite the bullet and scratch build it all, only because having gone through the trial-by-fire
of hand-making rods and valve gear and rods a few times, I have become more "fearless".  Ha ha ha.  Back when I made
my B6 from that Trix engine, I didn't even consider it because I thought it too difficult or impossible.  But you never know
until you try!

But I think, if you could possibly find one, the parts off a Life-Like/Walthers 0-8-0 would make a really good starting point.