DCCSA

[John]

Anyone try these yet?

https://www.iascaled.com/store/CKT-DCCSA

[CRL]

I wonder it it would fit in the speaker recess of the newer Atlas Silver series locos… seems more useful than sound.

[peteski]

Interesting.  970uF total capacitance using 2 tantalum polymer caps.  They probably are using 2 470uF caps. While they do seem to also have on-board protection circuitry, I wonder what is the cap's voltage rating.  I suspect 16V.

[reinhardtjh]

Interesting.  970uF total capacitance using 2 tantalum polymer caps.  They probably are using 2 470uF caps. While they do seem to also have on-board protection circuitry, I wonder what is the cap's voltage rating.  I suspect 16V.

Schematic is here: https://github.com/IowaScaledEngineering/ckt-dccsa/raw/master/pg/ckt-dccsa-panel-v2.0-a410feb/ckt-dccsa.pdf

Voltage isn't given but the part number is.  Specs are here: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/avx-corporation/TCN4477M016R0100/5957643

It is a 16v Tant Poly

Full design info here: https://github.com/IowaScaledEngineering/ckt-dccsa

[Steveruger45]

I think you are correct Pete. Just had a look at the downloadable documents provided on that site. The AVX caps data sheet does list 470uF caps and these are 16v as only voltage rating listed.

Note, while I was looking I see now John posted on this too with the links I was looking at.
Thanks John.

[peteski]

Thanks guys!

[John]

So how would this hook up ..   This has me confused ..   

Warning: The Run-N-Smooth PowerKeeper only operates with a DC voltage. Do NOT connect it to track power!  Doing so will do nothing and risks destroying the device.

[Steveruger45]

According to what I can see in the schematic of this, it includes two diodes (one Schottky and one zener) and a resistor and is a two wire hook up to the U+ and common negative.  Loksound manual shows similar cap with diode and resistor arrangement for upto 2200uF but with only one regular diode. [ Guests cannot view attachments ] .

Would appreciate if Pete could confirm my understanding of that schematic. 

[craigolio1]

So how would this hook up ..   This has me confused ..   

Warning: The Run-N-Smooth PowerKeeper only operates with a DC voltage. Do NOT connect it to track power!  Doing so will do nothing and risks destroying the device.

These caps are polarized and so they get connected after the bridge rectifier, which gives them DC. If you connect them to the track power side of the rectifier they will be exposed to AC.

Craig

[peteski]

This is very similar to the TCS keep-alives (but much smaller capacitance).

It hooks up to decoder's internal DC power. The +12V (often the blue wire) and decoder's "ground" or common. Some decoders have a wire or pad with that circuit, on others you have to find it.

[TiogaTracks]

Looks like a handy product, and I’d certainly want some for whenever I dust off my N-scale fleet.

Just checking my assumptions:  would there be any harm in adding these to decoders that have some keep-alive caps already installed?  I’m thinking I could just wire these as Peteski said above, but you all would know better than me.

-Steven

[CRL]

@TiogaTracks - Just curious, but if you already have keep alive caps, why would you want to add more?

[TiogaTracks]

A lot of my sound-equipped locos have older decoders, from around 2009-2011.  A pair of Kato E8s with early Digitrax decoders have a cap in a milled hole in the nose of the frame, which I don’t want to go to waste.  I’d rather buy an extra cap than buy a whole new decoder.

-Steven

[Ed Kapuscinski]

So where do you connect this?

[John]

So where do you connect this?

This is the reply I got for the same question

Newer decoders will have dedicated keepalive connections, making it easy to connect.  They'll be called out in the manual.  Just connect the Run-N-Smooth to these points (positive to positive, negative to negative) and you're good to go.

Older decoders can still be equipped with keepalives, but you'll need to identify the positive and negative power supply points on the decoder to connect to.  The details will vary based on the exact model of decoder, but there's enough people retrofitting keepalives now that if you search around, often you'll find someone who has figured out the connection points.

Most of my decoders are older -- not the fancy new ESUs .. so will have to figure it out .. I also have a BLI with sound -- it might be easier