The NPPX - A ‘Beer Can’ layout on a shelf

[ednadolski]

Here is an N-scale project that I have been working on (and off) for a bit of a while now, and have finally got it into a state where I can do some simple, basic ops. I call it a “beer can” layout because of said cans serving as stand-ins for grain silos until I get around to building some more respectable structures.  The main concept is from the one-turnout shelf idea, tho I added a second turnout for a bit more variety. 

Since simplicity, relaxation and fun are the overarching goals, I dubbed it the NPPX, initially thinking it to mean No Problems No Pressure Exchange.   However it could also fittingly stand for No Particular Prototype or No Pesky Planning (and perhaps a few other similar thoughts).  That’s not to mean tho that it’s some kind of throwaway or such, rather it’s more of a vehicle to try out new ideas and some kinds of projects that I have not done much of in the past.

While my intent is to avoid detailed planning, I nonetheless have a short list of givens and druthers:

• No specific prototype, other than some kind of simple, modern-era transload facility probably serviced by the BNSF (since that’s mostly what rolling stock and motive power I have).
• Start with OTS code 55 track, and upgrade over time  to code 40 with hand-built turnouts and track.
• Start with micro trains couplers and eventually migrate to LEZ couplers
• Long turnouts and siding lengths
• Scenery, structures, details, etc. to be added over time and as time permits.

Ops are on an as-the-mood-strikes basis and consist simply of the local arriving with a small train of 4-6 cars having a mix of loads and empties, switching them onto the required spots, and picking up outbound cars to depart with.  These pics show the current state of affairs, everything is a WIP (and likely will remain as such for some time).












Thanks for looking, and stay tuned for updates. 

[amato1969]

Yea, another shelf switching layout - I love it!  Less planning, more JFRTM.

  Frank

[milw12]

Ed,

This will be fun to watch, it's everything I enjoy about model railroading: simplicity and a laid back attitude. However, my beer can layouts tend to produce an empty can at the end of an operating session! 

Lucas

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I like the "lab" concept. Very cool.

[pedro]

I like it. Interesting idea to gradually morph to finer standards.
Also, Ed’s Law beer can silos:

[milw156]

were those formerly painted for Old Style in La Crosse???

[ednadolski]

First significant change for the NPPX: upgrading to Code 40 track.  Here is my initial installation of my detailed Code 40 turnout, along with some Railcraft (sorry @robert3985 !) flex track.   So far everything is just all tacked down to see how it works (the joints to the flextrack have no rail joiners and so are a bit bumpy) , and I expect to be installing one more turnout as soon as I have it ready to go.










Obligatory pics next to the commercial turnout that this is replacing:






Lastly, here is a quick vid of BNSF 6864 pulling the first cut of cars thru the new turnout:

Thanks for looking!

Ed

[svedblen]

The impression I get is one of neatness, robustness and reliability all at the same time. Very good! And when you scroll down and see the commercial turnout alongside it - then it really shines.

[jagged ben]

Wait, did you actually get your hands on some old Railcraft?   Good deal if you did.  I think the alloy they used back then corrodes slower than today's stuff. 

[amato1969]

Looking great @ednadolski !  I used the same "long frog" approach on my handlaid switches, works great with auto-juicers.

  Frank

[robert3985]

First significant change for the NPPX: upgrading to Code 40 track.  Here is my initial installation of my detailed Code 40 turnout, along with some Railcraft (sorry @robert3985 !) flex track.   So far everything is just all tacked down to see how it works (the joints to the flextrack have no rail joiners and so are a bit bumpy) , and I expect to be installing one more turnout as soon as I have it ready to go.


Thanks for looking!

Ed

@ednadolski Ed,  No need to be sorry!!  Haha...I'm always on the lookout for Rail Craft Code 40, and it's been a couple of years since I've found any, but I have more than enough for my next 20+ feet of sections I'm in the process of planning since I'm using it only for industrial, siding and branchline trackage. (I like the contrast between Code 40 and Code 55 branchline/mainline rails).

I know that I've posted this elsewhere at TRW in the past, but now seems like an appropriate time to repeat it.  If you decide to use rail joiners for your Code 40 (sometimes, I think they're necessary if only for their structural strength) I use shortened ones I make (both Code 55 and Code 40) from my tight Rail Craft/ME rail joiners that I cut to the same length as the distance between ties...or slightly shorter.  The secret is to cut off the "tongues" on either end of a standard rail joiner, then mount the modified rail joiner onto a length of scrap rail and cut the short rail joiners by cutting both the scrap rail and the joiner at the same time...thus not crushing the rail joiner.  I clean up any burrs by first, sliding the new joiners back on the scrap piece of rail, then using my fine jeweler's files for final cleanup.  If your flush cutters are sharp, not much cleanup is needed.

When mounting the short joiners to your rails, first, cut the rails so that the rails projecting out from the last tie is 1/2 the length of the space between ties.  Then, I cut the under-rail spacers away from 3 ties on either side of the future joint, slide the ties back from the future solder joint...align and solder the joiners, check their alignment again, then slide the ties back.  VOILA!!...the joiner virtually disappears, and there are no funky, spikeless ties under too-long rail joiners.

Photo (1) Here's a photo of my shortened rail joiners on lovely Rail Craft Code 55 trackage at Echo Yard that's been painted with the first coat of Krylon Camo Ultra-Flat Black:


As always, Silver/Tin solder (6 times stronger than Lead/Tin solder) and Superior Supersafe No. 30 Flux (available here: https://www.hnflux.com/page36.html ) makes these little joiners both strong and neat.

Love to see such quality and excellent work as you're doing Ed! ALWAYS inspirational!

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[ednadolski]

If you decide to use rail joiners for your Code 40 (sometimes, I think they're necessary if only for their structural strength) I use shortened ones I make (both Code 55 and Code 40) from my tight Rail Craft/ME rail joiners that I cut to the same length as the distance between ties...or slightly shorter.  The secret is to cut off the "tongues" on either end of a standard rail joiner, then mount the modified rail joiner onto a length of scrap rail and cut the short rail joiners by cutting both the scrap rail and the joiner at the same time...thus not crushing the rail joiner.  I clean up any burrs by first, sliding the new joiners back on the scrap piece of rail, then using my fine jeweler's files for final cleanup.  If your flush cutters are sharp, not much cleanup is needed.

Thanks @robert3985 , that's pretty much exactly what I do for the "heel blocks" on my turnout points.  I do make them a bit longer, since they are soldered only to the closure rails, as shown in the pics at the end of this post.  (I may try the P:87 heel blocks some day, but for now I don't have any for C40 rail).

I will probably do something much like what you've shown for the regular flextrack joints on the rest of the layout.  In my current setup, they are just end-butted together, and thus have a bit of 'bump' since they are not perfectly aligned.  On a layout this small I am not too concerned about rail expansion being an issue; also the fully soldered joints should make wiring a bit simpler

Cheers,
Ed

[ednadolski]

BTW @robert3985 is that cork roadbed?    It looks a bit different to me than the regular Midwest stuff.

Thx again,
Ed

[wazzou]

BTW @robert3985 is that cork roadbed?    It looks a bit different to me than the regular Midwest stuff.

Thx again,
Ed

Looks to me like regular sheet cork that has had a beveled shoulder cut into it.

[chuck geiger]

? Are you going to cover the CI GT's? I love the long throw rod. I am looking at some kind of other control with these
throws. https://www.central-hobbies.com/products/briggsmodels.html