Adding weight to Intermountain reefers?

[Cajonpassfan]

I have a whole bunch of the early production USRA rebuilds SFRD reefers, some built from kits but many others factory assembled. Unfortunately, the factory cars are way too light (.6oz/17grams). Most are also “welded” together with liquid cement, and virtually impossible to open up without damage.

There’s no room under the floor to add weight. I’ve heard of people removing an ice hatch and pouring glue into the car, followed by small steel balls, but that seems kind of messy and unpredictable as to weight distribution. It seems the glue would need to be viscous enough to spread evenly but not too viscous to leak out. Anyone here tried this or some other method? I’d like to add at least .25 oz to each car. Thoughts appreciated.
Otto K.

[sschnabl]

I wonder if using ballast would work, the real rock kind from Arizona Rock and Mineral.  I would think would be able to distribute the weight evenly and it would settle down.  Then maybe secure it like you would when ballasting track, although the thin glue might escape out a seam.

Scott

[thomasjmdavis]

I wonder if using ballast would work, the real rock kind from Arizona Rock and Mineral.  I would think would be able to distribute the weight evenly and it would settle down.  Then maybe secure it like you would when ballasting track, although the thin glue might escape out a seam.

Scott

I've been asking myself about how to solve this same problem (weight in IM cars).  On the recent kit builds, I've used Ailene's tacky glue (from Walmart) to glue in weight (chunks of 1/8x1/2 steel, or nuts). Haven't tried yet with RTR cars. But you have me thinking- and as it happens, I have an old "scout" map car to experiment on.  I'll check in if my idea works.

[nickelplate759]

Good question! When building from kits I like to add 0.5 oz. to each car - which is easy before the roof is glued on, but impossible afterwards.   I've never tried to add it afterwards.

Maybe drill holes in the floor to pour in some weight?

[wazzou]

Maybe drill holes in the floor to pour in some weight?

You don't want the weight on the ceiling.

[peteski]

Can the roof be carefully pried off, or is it glued so well that it won't  budge?

[nickelplate759]

You don't want the weight on the ceiling.

True - but you could still insert the weight from the bottom.  The trick is getting it down on the floor before any adhesive is set.  I can imagine some ways to do this, but they are all a little Rube Goldberg..

[peteski]

How about dropping in some lead buckshot through the ice hatch, then squirting some 5-minute epoxy from one of those auto-mixing dual syringes? Maybe then swish the car around a bit before the glue sets to spread it around the buckshot. Then let it sit. The epoxy will have enough time to spread and glue the buckshot to the floor. 

Of course if the floor has holes in it - never mind.

[MK]

Mix up some concrete using fine aggregate.  Open up the ice hatches...   

[thomasjmdavis]

Mix up some concrete using fine aggregate.  Open up the ice hatches...   

Actually, that is exactly what I was thinking in my post above.  But I am also thinking maybe just sand (rather than ballast) and slightly watered down PVA glue (Elmers or Ailene's tacky glue, for instance).  It doesn't need to be particularly strong- just heavy.

Given how the underframe pins plug the holes in the floor, if you put a screw in the mounting hole for the coupler, I think they would be close to water tight.

Having said that, I am thinking of trying mold rubber or just silicone caulk.  According to the instructions with the can of Alumilite on my workbench, the ratio of volume to weight is 21 cu inches to a pound.  So a cubic inch would weigh .76 ounce- to get the desired 1/4 ounce would be about 1/3 of a cubic inch. The area of the interior floor of an IM boxcar (I don't have a roofless reefer close by) is 1.82 sq in, so would require a depth of just less than 0.2" to get the desired weight, if I did all the math right.  Would need an applicator with a tube that fits into the roof hatch, but that seems do-able (old Vallejo bottle, maybe?)

How about dropping in some lead buckshot through the ice hatch, then squirting some 5-minute epoxy from one of those auto-mixing dual syringes? Maybe then swish the car around a bit before the glue sets to spread it around the buckshot. Then let it sit. The epoxy will have enough time to spread and glue the buckshot to the floor. 

Of course if the floor has holes in it - never mind.

I don't think you mean buckshot- even size 4 is just under a 1/4 inch in diameter, birdshot would be easier to fit without drilling out the reefer hatch.  But in any case, I think the way to go about it with shotgun loads or BBs or (little bitty) split shot fishing weights would be to put in 1/2 the weights, tilt the car and shake gently so they collect at one end, glue those in and let the glue set, and then do the other end.  That way, you don't have the random distribution you would get with trying to keep the car level and gluing all of them down at one time.

[Angus Shops]

I was just messing around with an IM boxcar, hoping to disassemble the car so I could use the roof ands ends for another project. I found that I could pop the roof of by slipping my thumbnail under a corner and working around the car fairly easily. I’m not sure if this was a kit I assembled or a factory assembled car, but it is decorated as a CN car and I don’t recall ever purchasing anything other than undec cars in kit form. A tiny piece of the roof corner broke off and remained attached to the car body, but if your plan is to reattach the roof it will fit back together with an invisible joint. Maybe I was lucky, but worth a try?
Geoff

[SAH]

Put the car in the freezer over night.  Upon removing it squeeze the sides slightly.  Most times the roof will pop off nicely.  If not, try Geoff's method while the car is still cold.

[Cajonpassfan]

Hmm, a reefer in the freezer: how apropos. Had not thought about that, might have to find a suitable victim tonight...
Certainly removing the roof would be the easiest option, but wonder what else is going to “pop”. Worth a try though, thanks!
Btw, I appreciate all the creative suggestions guys!
Otto

[SAH]

I've found that "usually" nothing else pops loose.  In the case of a reefer maybe the hatches will pop.

Forgot to mention that "over night" is critical.  This technique works best in the morning, after a steak, eggs and hash brown breakfast, washed down with a Natty Bo or two.  I think the finger squeeze pressure is calibrated at that point.  The Baltimore crowd will vouch for necessity of the Natty Bo in the AM.   

[Spades]

How about dropping in some lead buckshot through the ice hatch, then squirting some 5-minute epoxy from one of those auto-mixing dual syringes? Maybe then swish the car around a bit before the glue sets to spread it around the buckshot. Then let it sit. The epoxy will have enough time to spread and glue the buckshot to the floor. 

Of course if the floor has holes in it - never mind.

WAG. You weigh the shot before you put it. Put the epoxy in through the ice hatch, in the the ensuing 5 minute shake the car to coat(bird shot) and settle evenly?

 Peteski,  I think going through the floor would be easier and cleaner, and if it results in scaring and disfigurement it is on the bottom of the car.  Even with unprototypical ride height, I don't think it would be visible