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Looks like the railings are all molded from soft plastic. They seem to sag, just like on Atlas tank cars. Too bad they do not use metal rods, but I als understand that it would require additional labor to install (thus higher cost).IIRC, @GaryHinshaw was unhappy enough with the Atlas cars that he replaced the sagging plastic with metal rods.
So are there different roadnames for a second release? UTLX? CITX? Any other common tank car reporting marks that showed on these cars that Rapido isn't offering in round 1? I can only really justify the modern PROCOR markings from this run.
What is the purpose of the two "smoke stakes" on these cars? I've never seen them on any other tank cars.
I love these guys.Great video on the cars.
Well, yes and no. I've been replacing sagging metal rails with better steel wire on several models. But I do have a replacement in the works for the Atlas Kaolin tanker (and a few others) that replaces a floppy one-piece guard-rail+stanchions part with printed stanchions and steel wire. I haven't posted that one yet though. May have to do the same with this car.
I've been meaning to ask what 3D printer you use for those mods you've been doing. The walkways on your mods look great!
It really depends. My focus has been mostly on small detail parts and conversion kits (e.g. this post), and for that the regular Mono has been outstanding, nay game-changing. That said, the footprint of the build plate is ~3" x 5.5" which limits you to something like a 50-60' car in N scale if you print it horizontally. The vertical build volume is ~6.5", so you can go a bit larger if you can print your model vertically. For anything larger, you'll need the Mono X (at ~3 times the price).I'm mezzo-mezzo on the Wash & Cure. I have the 2.0 and I use it regularly for curing, but I've stopped using it for washing. I find that the propellor stirs up a lot of residue during a wash, which can do more harm than good if the solution and vat are not very clean. I now just manually dip parts in a sequence of two IPA baths (an old one and a newish one), followed by a quick finish dip in acetone. That works great (though use care: some resins don't like acetone). Bottom line: if you have a decent UV source that you can control, you can probably do without the station, but I do like having a controlled cure cycle, so it's been worth it for me.
Thanks @dem34 - saved me the search for the that post. I hope that answers your question Bryan.About Rapido's demo model: I hope they do something about that wonky railing around the loading hatch. Otherwise the car looks pretty nice.
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Topic: Rapido Trains - New GP20 (Read 14444 times)
