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Just need a larger well to receive the molten metal above the sprue.
More pressure and keeps the metal molten a bit longer. I think double the weight of the part in reserve in well is the number . But I've used smaller and larger.
I suspect if the metal is heated even more (above the melting point) it will stay liquid longer (take longer time to cool and solidify). But I don't know how the resin form would handle higher temperatures.
Casting lead alloys in steel molds, I have found that letting the molten metal get too hot leads to a frosted appearance on the castings. There seems to be an optimum temperature, because not hot enough leads to wrinkled-looking surfaces on the castings.I am not sure how this would play out in molds made of printed resin. Too much heat against the resin might show issues not seen with steel molds.
Why are you doing this as a two piece mold? Just pour it into the bottom mold and you can make sure that both wings get enough material and any excess material that builds up on the top can just be cut/sanded off.
Hey John L. Instead of making small molds make a series of patterns and runner trees. Use the pattern to make a silicon mold. Take that mold and put it in a spin caster and you will get decent parts all filled up on the sprue tree. There are a couple of maker spaces that had spincasters for the jewelry folks to play with in the metro area. I forgot the name of the fellow who was the owner/operator of sunrise details. He used a spinster to make the detail parts. Unfortunately he was involved in a nasty car wreck that disabled him. Armstrong on the west side sell a lot of jewelry making supplies on 8 mile in Livonia. he also has spinsters for sale and sometimes has classes using the spin caster. check it out.
1: to see if I could