Curving Benchwork?

[mike_lawyer]

I am planning on building a layout with a curved end of a peninsula. I want to build the curved end like the Benchwork seen at the link below:

https://www.raildig.com/raildig-guest/ondrew-hartigan-model-railroad-benchwork

I have 8 foot long, 3 inch wide strips of 1/8 inch thick luan plywood.  I plan on building a jig on plywood like shown at the link.  My question is this: what adhesive should I use to glue the luan strips together?  Just wood glue or something else?

[ednadolski]

Wood glue probably is the best bet.  There are polyurethanes and such but IDK anything about working with those.   In any case, if you are gluing (laminating) the surfaces together, then you will need a lot of glue (and clamps and blocks).

Have you considered bending plywood?   it is pricier but more flexible than lauan.

Ed

[mmagliaro]

My current layout has 1/8" masonite with a finished smooth side on it.  I don't know what it's called.  I saw it at the store and like it better than masonite because with the smooth laminate on one side, it makes for a nicer painted finish and it prevents the masonite from trying bend or kink.  No complaints.  I'd use it again.
On my previous layout, I used 1/8" model aircraft plywood.  You can buy it in 2' x 4' sheets if you look around, or even 6" or 4" wide by 4' pieces.  Because it's model aircraft grade, it's made of a lot of really thin plys glued together and it is really strong.  It bends beautifully.  I just made sure my underlying frame had LOTS of frequent glue block points so that I could clamp, glue, and bend the plywood.  Around a 180 degree curve it made for a nice smooth look.   Worked great, and if you want to stain and urethane it instead of painting, it looks great.  There are no knots.  It is pretty expensive, so I guess it's up to the look you want and how much layout edge you need to do.

In answer to your question (see, I didn't forget your question!)... wood glue.  I used TiteBond 3 (always,  it is  much stronger than the "1" and "2").  Worked great.    But if you can hide some screws and plug over the heads or sand/fill over them, you won't regret it.  I always did that to make sure a glue joint wouldn't just "let go" one day.

[metalworkertom]

My current layout has 1/8" masonite with a finished smooth side on it.  I don't know what it's called.  I saw it at the store and like it better than masonite because with the smooth laminate on one side, it makes for a nicer painted finish and it prevents the masonite from trying bend or kink.  No complaints.  I'd use it again.
On my previous layout, I used 1/8" model aircraft plywood.  You can buy it in 2' x 4' sheets if you look around, or even 6" or 4" wide by 4' pieces.  Because it's model aircraft grade, it's made of a lot of really thin plys glued together and it is really strong.  It bends beautifully.  I just made sure my underlying frame had LOTS of frequent glue block points so that I could clamp, glue, and in the plywood around a 180 degree curve and it would make for a nice smooth look.   Worked great, and if you want to stain and urethane it instead of painting, it looks great.  There are no knots in that stuff.  It is pretty expensive, so I guess it's up to the look you want and how much layout edge you need to do.

In answer to your question (see, I didn't forget your question!)... wood glue.  I used TiteBond 3 (always,  it is  much stronger than the "1" and "2").  Worked great.    But if you can hide some screws and plug over the heads or sand/fill over them, you won't regret it.  I always did that to make sure a glue joint wouldn't just "let go" one day.

I second Titebond 3. Bonds well and for a long time. Bow makers and Bamboo fly rod builders use it and both go through severe use.

[chesapeake490]

There is a product made for the custom cabinetry called wacky wood. It is a plywood with all of the layers going in the same direction. It bends very easily.

[Philip H]

The urethane glues (Gorilla Glue is the most well known) are always a good choice, but they expand as the cure, so tight clamping is a must.  by wetting the wood surface first and clamping evenly across the surface of the surface you force the glue into the wood fibers as it expands. Once setthe joints will be solid - the wood often fails before the joint does in those situations.

[Hiroe]

I used to build curve-side modules using this technology of laminated curved framing members.
This one was built with 3x layers of 1/8" doorskin luan:
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Then I discovered that if you use the plywood to build what amounts to a torsion box, you don't need to laminate the sides, and this saves a ton of both weight and time-spent. Now I build them with just single-ply 1/4" birch luan sides, and can crank a half-dozen out in an evening with an air-stapler if I have all the endplates and cross-struts precut.
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You can do much the same in built-in layouts if you add a 6" to 12" deep flat deck to the top or bottom of the curved front, as a linear reinforcement to hold the shape. I do this with the module tops as oversize pieces of 1/4" luan sheet, then trim to match with a router and following bit after the glue is dry.
This one was built with the flat reinforcement on the bottom, and filled with spray-foam insulation after thorough testing of the track and wiring:
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--Drew McCann

[CRL]

Honestly, I’ve never considered bending the bench work as shown. I’ll bend just the fascia instead. I will use standoffs to hold the fascia in position, but will use a basic ladder grid with square corners as the basic foundational structure with sections stair stepped or offset to meet & support the curved fascia, but the fascia is just trim and is not structural.

[mmagliaro]

Honestly, I’ve never considered bending the bench work as shown. I’ll bend just the fascia instead. I will use standoffs to hold the fascia in position, but will use a basic ladder grid with square corners as the basic foundational structure with sections stair stepped or offset to meet & support the curved fascia, but the fascia is just trim and is not structural.

Mine wasn't structural either.  The benchwork was all done and functional, with the ends of framing members sticking out.  I just trimmed them so that I could wrap the fascia over them.  But there needs to be enough of them so the fascia is strong.  People are going to lean against it, and it will bend and crack if it isn't really well braced from behind.