The New Northern Central

[Jesse6669]

First test print.  The joint bars were just a wee bit too fragile, will have to add a little reinforcement if the rail will have a gap like that.  Also I staggered the joint to be more prototypical (at least I suppose it is).  I didn't really clean this print as much as I usually do so there's some resin crud in there it appears.



All are true-to-scale scale 100 lb. rail, tie plates, spikes, crossties..   I'll probably give a go at painting it.   I tried a car rolling on it and it works great.  No worries with spikes interfering with the wheels.

I put the file here on my Google drive for whoever wants it.

Ed, let me know if you want me to mail you a couple segments like this--it's about 5 1/2 inch length, I owe you for a couple favors!

Jesse

[Ed Kapuscinski]

First test print.  The joint bars were just a wee bit too fragile, will have to add a little reinforcement if the rail will have a gap like that.  Also I staggered the joint to be more prototypical (at least I suppose it is).  I didn't really clean this print as much as I usually do so there's some resin crud in there it appears.



All are true-to-scale scale 100 lb. rail, tie plates, spikes, crossties..   I'll probably give a go at painting it.   I tried a car rolling on it and it works great.  No worries with spikes interfering with the wheels.

I put the file here on my Google drive for whoever wants it.

Ed, let me know if you want me to mail you a couple segments like this--it's about 5 1/2 inch length, I owe you for a couple favors!

Jesse

Heck yeah! Mostly because I love how much of a TRW project this has become. The building itself is a @Chris333 casting by way of Dave V. Some of your track will absolutely MAKE it.

[Angus Shops]

Wider tie spacing would give a little bit more of a ‘industrial track’ look.

[ednadolski]

Tie texture will be a pain and add a lot of size

Alternately, it might work to randomly scratch/scuff the tie tops up with a fine-tooth saw blade, sandpaper, scratch awl, etc.

Ed

[chessie system fan]

Wider tie spacing would give a little bit more of a ‘industrial track’ look.

I'm curious, does anyone know for sure if this is true or just a model railroading myth?  All of the old industrial trackage I've explored seemed kind of normal-looking to me. But it's possible that my random sampling isn't indicative of sidings laid down in the 1920s or 1930s in the northeast.

[pjm20]

Wider track spacing in PRR standards was up to 6" wider between ties, not exactly something that would stick out to you, but subtle enough. Remember that in a lot of cases private sidings were the responsibility of the customer as well.

[mdltrn]

I'm curious, does anyone know for sure if this is true or just a model railroading myth?  All of the old industrial trackage I've explored seemed kind of normal-looking to me. But it's possible that my random sampling isn't indicative of sidings laid down in the 1920s or 1930s in the northeast.

Some typical guidelines for tie spacing, measure from centerline of tie are:
main line:  18-19.5"
branch line:  19.5-21"
siding/industrial:  20-24"
The most important factor to consider is the intended use, location and geometry of the track. A busy siding adjacent to a main line may have a similar tie spacing as the the main line. A seldom used spur that gets a handful of cars per year could have a more generous spacing. The ties might be tightened up around a sharp curve however.

Another thing to keep in mind is the size of the ties. Main line wood ties are typically Grade 5 - 7" deep x 9" wide x 8'-6" long, while a more economical tie for a lesser used track typically has a smaller cross section and is sometimes shorter, such as Grade 3 6" deep x 8" wide x 8'-0" long.  See chart below. A narrower tie will increase the amount of ballast between ties, compared with a wider tie at the same spacing.

[Jesse6669]

I did a slightly revised track section (foreground) using Grade 3 ties (8" wide instead of 9") and slightly randomized spacing.  Also fixed the joint bar issue.  I think it came out looking pretty good--Now if only I could print in conductive metal at this scale...
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[Lemosteam]

I did a slightly revised track section (foreground) using Grade 3 ties (8" wide instead of 9") and slightly randomized spacing.  Also fixed the joint bar issue.  I think it came out looking pretty good--Now if only I could print in conductive metal at this scale...
(Attachment Link)

Try nickelpating it. Like old model kit chrome pieces.

Hmm.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Try nickelpating it. Like old model kit chrome pieces.

Hmm.

Actually... what about conductive paint??

[Lemosteam]

Actually... what about conductive paint??

If it wants to be run on, paint would wear off  quickly, imho. But plating on the other hand…

[Jesse6669]

If it wants to be run on, paint would wear off  quickly, imho. But plating on the other hand…

Hmm.. I could see doing this with masks so only the railhead is plated, I wonder how much voltage a plated layer could handle though?  I'm not an electronics guy so this is out of may area of expertise but that's a thin layer.  Now for the smaller scales like T.. it's only a 4v circuit so maybeeeee....

[Scottl]

Circuit boards can handle comparable amperage to what an N scale loco uses, but that is copper.  Plating metal might not be as conductive.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I've been busy working on the New NCR. First, I got over myself and fixed a major bug by eating a frog.

https://conrail1285.com/eat-the-frog-yard-track-edition/

Just look at the improved clearance here! You can now actually USE the front yard track.



That also enabled me to start the first step toward getting some scenery down here.



And catch a glimpse of a scene like this.

[btrain]

Looking nice Ed! I’m digging that random tie spacing in the yard. It kind of gives that feeling from watching that Penn Central film that was sent to Congress, soliciting help or a bailout.