It’s ALLLLIIIIVEEEE.. and I’m scared

[Chris333]

Also if I do have to clean the fep I used lint free chem wipes. Don't know if they keep from scratching, but have to be better than paper towels.

[SkipGear]

John,
 Once a print fails and sticks to the FEP, nothing will be exposed past that point and it will just keep exposing into the parts that are stuck to the FEP so nothing else will be created. With the RERF test, the small posts can come loose and it is a good idea to at least strain the resin if you had failures where you see things pulled off the model. In most normal prints, the failures come from not enough raft and too much suction or pull as it is coming off the FEP. It sticks to the FEP instead of the build plate. In those situations, there will be no small debris, just a raft sized blob stuck to the FEP, pop it off and move on.

[Lemosteam]

Imexpected failure with the RERF. so yes, I drained and filtered yep the resin from the vat.

That was the point of that file, right?

Time to Print something real and measure it for accuracy.

Also, what is the average amount of time spent in the curing chamber?

[garethashenden]

Also, what is the average amount of time spent in the curing chamber?

I think the instructions that came with my Wash & Cure said two or three minutes for curing. That seems to work. I was really struggling to get parts clean and cured before I bought this, I'd cure them for an hour and they're still tacky. But now, ten minutes cleaning and three curing, with a bit of drying time in between and the prints are coming out so much better.

[Lemosteam]

So when in the various slicers, can the exposure be varied ant any given layer or are we pretty much stuck with the exposure time for the remaining layers after the base layers have completed?

My second print was a complete failure due to the support tip diameter I specified.

My third part (same as second) looked great on the visible surfaces from the top, and then when I removed the part, the underside was very nebulous.  Holes were filled where on the RERF print in a similar size were fairly clean.

I ask my question above, hoping that I can stiffen specific layers to help reduce any movement during the raise/lower effect in the fluid.  Also I think I may not have had enough supports in two spots.

[RBrodzinsky]

you can't adjust time per layer, just base and "other".  The real magic is figuring out the proper support structure, and the rotation for the part.  If you have details on multiple sides, I find it best to rotate to about 40 degrees.  This allows the resin to drain away from the detail.

I tend to use Chitubox for creating the supports, then save as an STL (with supports) and bring into Photon Workshop for slicing.  Have not much success using the Chitubox slicing.

[SkipGear]

I believe the photon slicer has the ability to do it but I have never had the need to play with it.

There is an art to creating supports. That is why I draw them as part of the file. Uniform and correctly placed supports do so much for the quality of the print. I have not seen a single support generating programs that gives me the amount of control I want.

[Lemosteam]

I downloaded the Lychee free version, and the tool allows for manual placement of supports, generic on the fly controls of the supports, diameter, taper point size, etc. its very intuitive.  It exports a sliced Photon file that reads directly into the Anycubic slicer where you can manage the exposure, etc.  Then a save as allows for the Anycubic version to be copied onto the thumb drive.  I have not tried to print the Lychee file directly, as I have yet to figure out how to add the layer settings.

One thing I was disappointed with on the Lychee tool, was the fact that I could not re-open the sliced file in the tool I just saved it from!  Odd, and I assume it's the annoying proprietary file type.

I even created a standard raft in CAD that I import as a 180 x 110 1mm thick .stl file, and then scale it in the tool to just cover the width and length of the group of parts.

Scaling moving and duplication multiple copies of imported files is VERY handy!  I was not able to determine if supports could also be duplicated.

There is a "PRO" version avilable for $3.99/mo subscription, and I am still deciding.

Did I mention that t is very intuitive?  LOL.  Watch the demo vids- the tool works exactly as shown (too quickly though, had to watch several times).

- So I will have to try individual layer settings in the Anycubic slicer and I will report back if it's possible.

[Lemosteam]

I believe the photon slicer has the ability to do it but I have never had the need to play with it.

There is an art to creating supports. That is why I draw them as part of the file. Uniform and correctly placed supports do so much for the quality of the print. I have not seen a single support generating programs that gives me the amount of control I want.

@SkipGear If the photon slicer has this ability, I have not found it, nor a way to modify it.  To me it seems that that flexibility is a no brainer to add as an enhancement.  All it affects is the time to print.

[Lemosteam]

My solution for plate and print dripping for my Mono X:


 
Drill two 3/8 holes centered on the sides of the U channel, pick up an 8mm X1.25 X70mm bolt or screw, and add a handle.

The screw does not need to tighten, it just needs to keep the plate from falling off the lift support.

[SkipGear]

Was thinking of something similar, a square tube that fits the post mounted to the side. Then hang it below. Just need to raise the arm higher before removing.

[Lemosteam]

Was thinking of something similar, a square tube that fits the post mounted to the side. Then hang it below. Just need to raise the arm higher before removing.

Its hard enough for me to hold one part and a bolt, much less two.  Guess I'm just terrified of dropping that plate into the vat and screen.

[C855B]

My solution for plate and print dripping for my Mono X: ...

Hmm. Did the product engineer forget his coffee the morning he designed that? The original Photon has a square tenon arrangement for the build carriage and plate. Open the door, loosen the clamp, pull off and turn 90°, put back on (no need to re-clamp). If I want to close the door when I want to let it drip for a while, just lower the carriage to clear.

Granted, this doesn't work for tall prints, but it covers 90% of what I do. That the jumps higher, runs faster version doesn't have something similar puzzles me.

[Lemosteam]

Agreed, I thought the same.  The U channel is just not tall enough to go back over the carriage when turned 90 degrees.  the carriage however IS at its "Print complete" position, so the added height helps and i don't have to raise or lower it.

[RBrodzinsky]

@SkipGear If the photon slicer has this ability, I have not found it, nor a way to modify it.  To me it seems that that flexibility is a no brainer to add as an enhancement.  All it affects is the time to print.

I just checked for latest Photon Workshop software, and V2.1.24 does have single layer exposure adjustment capabilities.  See page 18 of the PDF manual documenting the new features.