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I am making a presumption here and guessing you're modeling the Pennsy, and a somewhat Mid Atlantic locale? Depending on that you could be modeling a swamp marsh or a tidal marsh. For instance, the NEC is built through swampland in southern Maryland but in the industrial areas of Philly, it contends with tidal marsh. Most of the NEC around Odenton to DC was meadow, scrub, and low water marsh, like wooded bogs. It looks like your layout is not going to offer any woodland transition, just scrub and bog - I don't see much room for much in the way of trees with that retaining wall. I think one of the Danneman's did a nice article on modeling a smap, but it was more of a river tidal variety, not bog or shoreline. I think he used fake fur, and it appeared in MR and probably got regurgitated into later Kalmbach books on scenery. Biologists and the internet are your friend in this case, on how to develop the plant transition, depending on where your prototype is. One of the Modutrak boys did a nice job on modeling pond scum and a drainage basin, which is worth taking a look at too.
Rob Carey had an article in N Scale Railroading describing the construction techniques for a swamp he modeled on his DRGW layout.
I read somewhere that you can prep brass by soaking in white vinegar for a couple of hours, then wash off - presumably with alcohol to speed things up (?)
This might be better than sandblasting or using an air eraser to etch the brass, but I agree some type of surface prep will be needed.You might think about how to coat the different plants with adhesive to allow flocking or other traditional scenery materials to stick, as texture is an important and overlooked part of plants. Very few are as smooth in real life as brass, and even if realistically painted, the smoothness may detract from the realism.
I'd attempt to do it and plant while not set-up yet.
I don't know how thin they are, but be very careful sandblasting sheet metal. If you do use as little air pressure as possible. I would make sure that it is very clean, no oils, finger prints or anything else, then put it vinegar for about 20 minutes, rinse well to remove the vinegar then prime and paint. The vinegar etches it a little and gives it some tooth for the paint to adhere to. I have used bead blasters and warped sheet steel with it and brass is a lot softer. If you do want to use an air eraser use one of the end pieces to experiment with before doing the parts you want to use. It may be possible to put a curl in the leaves with the eraser. Richard Webster
Right, that was partially the reason for the sandblasting, texture. You point is really well taken though. Not sure if there’s anything that fine. Thanks to all so far!Still looking for thoughts on the matte medium, I.e. before of after planting. Just want the mash you look wet and muddy at the base. Maybe mix in some fine ground brown spice of some kind.
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Topic: Advice on prepping, painting and installing my marsh (Read 1874 times)
