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Thanks for posting the video.Just spit balling: Are there loose bolts from the factory? My Photon was pretty loose when I bought it.I saw a few days back on FB that Phozen released a new g-code for the printer. Did you try that? I suspect this is what Phozen will have you try.Another modeler I know had a Phrozen before I got my Photon and he said they were about the same, but no Anycubic quality issues.
That is crazy that you cannot manually move the Z rail. I use that all the time on the Photon. But as far as leveling the plate, I've only had to do that 2-3 times in 2 years with the Photon. Once it is set you should be good.
I don't have a dog in this hunt but just looking at the build plate attachment, bent steel relatively light weight brackets as well as attaching hole placements, I suspect that the rigidity desired to make parts holding extreme tolerance just isn't there, especially vertically. A dial indicator and finger tip loading of the build plate would afford some sense if this is true. Additionally, if only to make adjusting the squareness of the plate easier, add at least some washers to those bolts on the slotted adjusting holes and better yet, a drilled bridge plate that joins those holes, with the idea that they will resist the propensity of the turning bolt to cause the slotted bracket to shift position while torqueing those bolts. I've also heard reference to the "Z" axis nut allowing some angular shifting of the build plate while running but without seeing the latch-up I'm not sure what that's all about. If the axis isn't rigidly guided then it's a problem, maybe bigger than the suspicion that I outlined above. It's also possible that any one of those things might not be a huge issue by itself but they are cumulative so... If the rigidity isn't there, all of the wonderful screen resolution and light brightness becomes moot.
I have one of the Mini-4K's. I purchased it just before Thanksgiving, got it just before Christmas. I haven't used it yet, but I did, on the recommendation of the negative review I referenced above, installed some build plate bracket supports. They're laser cut from 1/8" (3mm) thick aluminum and bolted in place (I work with industrial laser cutters). With the supports installed, the build plate support bracket is rock solid.Watched the video showing the the deflection... The important thing I took away from that, is that the indicator on the Z-axis appears to be consistently resetting to specific positions for each operation (up/down, peel, etc...) within an indicator tick or two (can't see what the graduations on the indicator are... 0.01mm?? 0.001"??)Jeff
Rodney,Did you get a Sonic Mini 4K as well?
Here's the brackets I added to my machine... They're attached with 4mm screws and are the same on both sides to avoid any asymmetric twisting forces. I also sanded the build plate where the attachment bracket slides on so that the bracket is more loose. I also de-burred the slots in the attachment bracket so the bracket would slide freely over the build plate. The washers on the bracket were added to mitigate any twisting moment from tightening the screws. I added washers under the screws that attach the Z-axis homing flag to prevent the screw heads from biting into the plastic flag.Untitled by jeffB, on FlickrUntitled by jeffB, on FlickrJeff
This is impressive. You did all of this before printing anything? I’d love to see how your 20mm cube prints!