Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k

[timwatson]

Also @Chris333 if you use the gasket I made with the Nintendo switch screen you will need a new version. It creates a gap at the front of the lcd in its current state. That’s next.

[timwatson]

I may have spoken too soon. Just like the last iterations the more I print with it the more the lean comes back. I wish I could figure out that part. I may need to print a more solid arm and try again. The bright side is that it now prints vertically square on the build plate. Calibration cubes are next to try to print after I get this resin exposure time figured out.

[timwatson]

So the rail doesn't flex when pulling away from the FEP?

What type of resin is the head made of that it is so strong?

You jinxed it  ! As I was printing the new arm on the SM4k the one I FDM printed cracked in half hard.
Sigh, now reprinting a new one. I forgot the one I was using awhile back was printed in a different orientation with the grain running longways.

[Chris333]

Maybe print thru holes and insert metal rods.

[JeffB]

I may have spoken too soon. Just like the last iterations the more I print with it the more the lean comes back. I wish I could figure out that part. I may need to print a more solid arm and try again. The bright side is that it now prints vertically square on the build plate. Calibration cubes are next to try to print after I get this resin exposure time figured out.

Or you could just install the laser cut aluminum brackets I sent you!   

Jeff

[timwatson]

Maybe print thru holes and insert metal rods.

That might be another next step, we will see. I still feel good about this version but I need a more sturdy arm. I started the resin arm printing (with the cracking FDM arm) and I am using Anycubic green mixed with Elegoo ABS like and the print time was ~3 hours. I've never ever got a resin print to take that little time before. This was the whole build plate filled.

Or you could just install the laser cut aluminum brackets I sent you!   

Jeff

I can't actually, if I want to reuse the holes in the base already there (which I should strive to do) then the current back of the arm is too deep front to back. That was a sad realization.
Could you laser cut us a 1/4" aluminum base @JeffB . I could make the drawing. I'm so deep into this now I have to see it through.

[timwatson]

Or you could just install the laser cut aluminum brackets I sent you!   

Jeff

Maybe you've got a point here. Maybe I should have tried to use the current arm instead of making a new one. I just need to move the whole tower back 1.5mm somehow. Sigh.


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[Chris333]

If it sticks out 1.5mm now you could deepen the notch by 1.5mm and the 2 notches on the build plate that locate on the bolts. This would give you a tiny bit better bite.

[timwatson]

If it sticks out 1.5mm now you could deepen the notch by 1.5mm and the 2 notches on the build plate that locate on the bolts. This would give you a tiny bit better bite.

I'm not sure I follow. The last picture shows that I can't move the tower or the arm. The stepper rod can't bend.

[Chris333]

This notch where the head screws into, just move it back 1.5mm

[timwatson]

This notch where the head screws into, just move it back 1.5mm

Ah I see what you're saying, but that's not the problem, the 2 parts that can't move are the stepper and lead screw and the z axis tower placement. Those two things placed where they are won't allow the old bracket to be used.

[Chris333]

Oh I see it now the back vertical part will not fit. Carry on 

[Chris333]

Got my 1/4" aluminum plate today. Seems cutting it will be fun. I could spend hours clamping it down to my mill or just try cutting it on the table saw. 

[Chris333]

Well that wasn't bad at all. Bought a billion tooth blade for the saw and it cut right through. Only downside... metallic sawdust. This will be inside the machine and never seen.



No holes drilled yet.

[timwatson]

That’s a thing of beauty @Chris333 ! Really I might be coming around to this. Where did you get the metal? Also is it 6061? Also how did you drill mill the hole for the end stop sensor.