Back Drop Material?

[dcarrell8]

I was wondering if there was a consensus on what material to use for a back drop.  I have heard that if you use 1/8" hardboard/Masonite that the paint may eventually flake off.  So I was wondering what others have used and the pros-cons of various materials.

~Dennis

[ednadolski]

I have heard that if you use 1/8" hardboard/Masonite that the paint may eventually flake off.

Flaking is a matter of proper surface preparation.   With (tempered) Masonite it can help to sand the surface before applying a primer. Of course you also have to remove the sanding dust or any other contaminants.

Thin materials like 1/8" Masonite can be more susceptible to other issues such as sagging/warping/buckling if not 'properly' supported.   That said, it's still probably the most common backdrop material in use.

Ed

[dcarrell8]

Flaking is a matter of proper surface preparation.   With (tempered) Masonite it can help to sand the surface before applying a primer. Of course you also have to remove the sanding dust or any other contaminants.

Thin materials like 1/8" Masonite can be more susceptible to other issues such as sagging/warping/buckling if not 'properly' supported.   That said, it's still probably the most common backdrop material in use.

Ed

Thanks Ed,
So as long as it's well supported, sanded and a good quality primer applied it should last a long time?  I figure I have about 20years left at this point. 

[ednadolski]

@dcarrell8  yes I used the masonite on my little Loop layout (about 14 linear feet, wrap-around style) and the paint has held up for something like 12 years and afaik is still going, even surviving a couple of moves.

Ed

[ednadolski]

BTW some modelers use artist's gesso for a primer over masonite, and given a decent surface prep it should hold up as good as anything else.   It usually takes at least two coats (three is much better) of any primer to cover something as dark as masonite, but an advantage of gesso over say house paint is that you can sand it between coats to get a smoother base.

Just make sure it is a gesso that is compatible with any paint that you plan to put over it.  Specifically, don't use an oil-based gesso unless you will only paint over it with oil paints.   There are 'universal' gessoes that can take all kinds of paints.

Ed

[ednadolski]

One more point, if you're new to backdrops a good resource is the Mike Danneman book, which iirc covers construction, priming & painting, colors, composition, and more.   Very informative read.   I'm pretty sure he used masonite for his layout backdrop and it's probably at least 15 years old by now.

Aside, I would just love to see him produce a hands-on tutorial/demo video, as there are some things that seem so much easier to pick up by watching them being done in real-time.   Maybe if enough folks keep asking him.... 

Ed

[dcarrell8]

One more point, if you're new to backdrops a good resource is the Mike Danneman book, which iirc covers construction, priming & painting, colors, composition, and more.   Very informative read.   I'm pretty sure he used masonite for his layout backdrop and it's probably at least 15 years old by now.

Aside, I would just love to see him produce a hands-on tutorial/demo video, as there are some things that seem so much easier to pick up by watching them being done in real-time.   Maybe if enough folks keep asking him.... 

Ed

I will definitely look into the book.  I'm certainly new to backdrops, so far I have watched about every youtube video out there on the subject. 

This is more ore less a practice run.  I'm still considering exactly how to mount the hardboard.  I would like to have the lighting and back drop up before I start bench work.
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

~Dennis

[ednadolski]

That's awfully darn good for a 'practice run'!        Impressive how you've captured the sense of form, mass, and scale!

IIRC Danneman mentions hanging masonite like drywall, except that you have to make countersinks for the screw heads since masonite is too hard to 'dimple' like drywall does.

Backdrop before scenery is a good idea, it can be helpful to know a priori what scenery materials you will use, so you can match the colors.

Ed

[nickelplate759]

I've used 1/8" Masonite twice.  No problem with paint peeling - just prime first!  Mount it with smallish screws - they must be countersunk and spackled.  The biggest challenge is seams - I mud and tape just as for drywall, but it's not easy (for me) to get it smooth enough that no shadows show AND no cracks develop on the seams. 

[peteski]

How do large sheets of Masonite handle the dry/humid cycles of the ambient air?  Any expansion/contraction?

I have heard some modelers using sheet Polystyrene for backdrops.  It comes in 4' x 8' sheets in various thicknesses.

[peteski]

I've used 1/8" Masonite twice.  No problem with paint peeling - just prime first!  Mount it with smallish screws - they must be countersunk and spackled.  The biggest challenge is seams - I mud and tape just as for drywall, but it's not easy (for me) to get it smooth enough that no shadows show AND no cracks develop on the seams.

How do large sheets of Masonite handle the dry/humid cycles of the ambient air?  Any expansion/contraction?

I have heard some modelers using sheet Polystyrene for backdrops.  It comes in 4' x 8' sheets in various thicknesses.

[Steveruger45]

Now, I’ve never tried this and was wondering if anyone has.  Using sheet vinyl, the type used on floors.
I’m thinking the supporting, priming, painting and joining seams would be a challenge.

[Pomperaugrr]

I use 1/8" tempered Masonite as my background.  I primed and painted it.  When installing it, I added a 1' long splice plate to the back of each seam, secured with construction adhesive.  It overlaps 6" on each side of the joint.  That allowed the face side of the joint to be smoothed out with drywall mud.  It has held up well over the years.  I have 1 minor crack on a joint, but it is barely noticeable.

[dcarrell8]

That's awfully darn good for a 'practice run'!        Impressive how you've captured the sense of form, mass, and scale!

IIRC Danneman mentions hanging masonite like drywall, except that you have to make countersinks for the screw heads since masonite is too hard to 'dimple' like drywall does.

Backdrop before scenery is a good idea, it can be helpful to know a priori what scenery materials you will use, so you can match the colors.

Ed

Thank you!
If I stare at it too long some of the angles don't make good sense as well as some of the shadowing.  I made 5 other attempts before I committed to this one, each got a little bit better.

[dcarrell8]

I use 1/8" tempered Masonite as my background.  I primed and painted it.  When installing it, I added a 1' long splice plate to the back of each seam, secured with construction adhesive.  It overlaps 6" on each side of the joint.  That allowed the face side of the joint to be smoothed out with drywall mud.  It has held up well over the years.  I have 1 minor crack on a joint, but it is barely noticeable.

Yes, I'm a bit concerned about the seams.  I don't really want to put any extra frame work on the walls to support the backdrop, which means I may need to cut them exactly where a stud is I guess. 

~Dennis