Smoothing scenery material?

[voldemort]

I continue to be making two steps forward one back on my doorway layout.  I'm at the stage of finally doing the scenery.  I've watched plenty of videos.

Can someone suggest what material I could cover my base with.  I have a 2" thick polystyrene board over a door.  Much of the layout is either going up or down hills. ( extra layers on top carved down into shapes) Obviously over 2 years of the regular backward steps there are lots of, well, scars would be the best way to describe them.  Places the soldering iron melted down.  Places I've had to rip up track, others where there is a 'step' between two lines of rail that I'd like to smooth out. 

Because its N scale and so tiny, I'm not think of dramatic ideas of ways to fill things in, more just some product that would maybe vary between 1/4" and 2" thickness that could be laid down, smoothed over, painted and then grass or whatever adhered to.  Things like vermiculite and glue mixtures might be too coarse for the layer under the final finish.

what have you found the best for this?  Plaster of paris?  (will it crack?)  Paper mache type products (very fine but maybe a bit too coarse for N scale detail), some plastic putty, drywall compound (it will crack as it dries very slowly). 

Once again thank you for all your help

[Chris333]

I use Sculptamold or Celluclay with an old butter knife.

[dem34]

Well, even in N scale you don't really need to worry about how "fine" a material is as long as you know what you want scenery wise. The Base of my layout looked like the moon right before I got off my a$$ and just put some ground cover down. Big holes can be filled easily with the methods Chris described. Small gaps and scars are easily covered by underbrush and grass.

[ednadolski]

I use Sculptamold or Celluclay with an old butter knife.

You don't even need the knife.   I just wear a thin nitrile glove and shape the Sculptamold with my fingers.   Occasionally mist with a bit of water from a spray bottle to help smooth the surface and work out the lumps.

Some folks like to add sand, soil, stones, or whatever to give texture, but I think that works better for larger scales than N.  I do add some of my earth-tone paint to the Sculptamold, to save the step of having to come back and paint it later.

Ed

[porkypine52]

Check out the currant issue of Model Railroad Hobbyist [FREE] at: https://online.fliphtml5.com/buups/nyiq/index.html#p=1  There is an excellent Scenery Tutorial in it. 

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[jereising]

I use joint compound.  Cheap, and does the job.  If thickness is needed either several coats or added paper and masking tape over that.  With this method it's all about time.  Do what you can, then walk away and let it dry.  Rinse and repeat.
I texture using a wet sash brush.  The dried compound will take anything well - paint, glue, what have you - and is sturdy. 
Works for me.

[wazzou]

I generally have used either Sculptamold or Light Weight Spackle, or both.

[voldemort]

I used the sculptamold stuff this morning.  While it still has some drying to do, I'm impressed.  My layout has gone from a Halloween butcher look to a clean surgical field with a few hours of work.  I read some more stuff and had excellent success.  I mixed it for a long time, made it slightly wetter than the way I like my oatmeal and  applied with a spatula and then, after it set for 10-15 minutes, sprayed it with a bit of water and went over it with the back of a tablespoon.  Kindof like finishing off poured concrete.

Other than violating the domestic rule on using kitchen equipment on my train, it really has worked out well.  I've washed the stuff up so well that I don't think any REASONABLE person would know

Thanks again TrainAngels

[JMaurer1]

Pictures...

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I use lightweight spackle thanks to Foxxy.

I usually just use whatever putty knife is around, like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Warner-2-in-Putty-Knife/3166517

[Maletrain]

For N scale surfaces, I tend to think that it is most realistic to create a smooth base to start and then add the grass or brush or whatever roughness to make the type of surface that suits the situation.  (Unless I am casting exposed rocks, where the finished layer needs to have the roughness cast in.)

For big "fills" in roughly carved foam, something like Sculptamold that is light and won't crack seems to work well.  But, for making smooth surfaces, sometimes Sculptamold troweling leaves a surface that has a lot of trowel marks.  So, sometimes I just use paper strips soaked in white glue mixture and layered on the surface to get the contours I want.  I can smooth and shape with wet fingers and leave a smooth surface.

[DKS]

...sometimes Sculptamold troweling leaves a surface that has a lot of trowel marks.

I use Sculptamold almost exclusively. For those occasions when a surface needs to be smoother, I just add powdered plaster to the dry Sculptamold mix (very roughly 50:50). Then I use a moistened putty knife, pallet knife, or my fingers to shape a nice smooth surface.

BTW, to greatly accelerate drying, place a small fan nearby such that it blows across the surface of the material. Cuts drying time by half or more.

[davefoxx]

As Ed pointed out, I suggest lightweight spackling.  Unlike joint compound, you can slather lightweight spackling on thicker without nearly as much cracking.  Once dry, lightweight spackling is the consistency of foam, so it's easy to modify, if necessary.  Clean up?  Wipe off the putty knife and close the container.  Done.  I like to buy it in the gallon-sized buckets.

Hope this helps,
DFF

[CRL]

I prefer using a artist pallet knife. I have a couple of different sizes. The very flexible blade works well for smoothing surfaces or creating sharper textures as the material dries.

[NtheBasement]

I use Sculptamold but it has difficulty sticking to the smooth side of extruded foam.  It adheres very well if you smear it into foam that has been cut so that open foam cells are exposed.  If you need a lot you can get it for < 2 bucks a pound if you have a Dick Blick nearby.  https://www.dickblick.com/items/33104-1050/

Cheapest mix-in colors I've found is Quikrete, a little goes a long way.  https://www.lowes.com/pd/QUIKRETE-Buff-Cement-Color-Mix/3018773  But Scultptamold doesn't chip and show white like plasters do.  OTOH plaster can be carved after drying and accepts washes well.