SP 6000 project & Golden State

[JMaurer1]

There's something wrong with the trucks?

[nickelplate759]

There's something wrong with the trucks?

LOL!  No, it's the paint on the doors, that's all.

[nickelplate759]

Turns out that the paint is correct, but the way the doors mount in the the  kit is not.  The mount too low.   They will be removed, trimmed at the top, and reglued in place about 1 scale foot higher.

[nickelplate759]

Added SP Golden Cloud to the fleet. 



After I finished it I discovered that it was wrecked in 1948, so I need to be careful not to put it in a train with cars that were delivered later or the Time Incongruity Vortex might be catastrophic!

[peteski]

Added SP Golden Cloud to the fleet. 

After I finished it I discovered that it was wrecked in 1948, so I need to be careful not to put it in a train with cars that were delivered later or the Time Incongruity Vortex might be catastrophic!

. . . and unless you are friendly with bunch of SP historian friends who will also know the specific period you are modeling, you will likely be the only person noticing the "problem".  Most people will just notice a beautiful train! 

[JMaurer1]

Just install a flux capacitor in it.

[nickelplate759]

Well, the doors on the RPO-baggage have been fixed, and windows glazed.  Unfortunately, I've realized that the castings (they are resin) are warped.
The GOOD news is that the body is bowed down in the middle, and the roof is bowed up, so if I glue them together the care will be sort-of-straight.

I'm not sure what kind of glue to use.  No matter what I use, my plan is to
1. apply glue to the mating surfaces of the roof and body, mostly in the middle of the car.
2. Put them together and tie them with wound string until the glue dries.

I only expect to get one shot at this, so I'm looking for suggestions on what glue to try.   
My first thought is Walthers/Hobsco Goo, my second is a medium-thick Cyanacrylate super-glue.

Anyone have experience to share?   Or wild ideas?

[SP-Wolf]

Well, the doors on the RPO-baggage have been fixed, and windows glazed.  Unfortunately, I've realized that the castings (they are resin) are warped.
The GOOD news is that the body is bowed down in the middle, and the roof is bowed up, so if I glue them together the care will be sort-of-straight.

I'm not sure what kind of glue to use.  No matter what I use, my plan is to
1. apply glue to the mating surfaces of the roof and body, mostly in the middle of the car.
2. Put them together and tie them with wound string until the glue dries.

I only expect to get one shot at this, so I'm looking for suggestions on what glue to try.   
My first thought is Walthers/Hobsco Goo, my second is a medium-thick Cyanacrylate super-glue.

Anyone have experience to share?   Or wild ideas?

Great looking car.

Go with the ACC.
That is what I used on mine -- been about 20 or so years. No issues.

Wolf

[dem34]

Well, the doors on the RPO-baggage have been fixed, and windows glazed.  Unfortunately, I've realized that the castings (they are resin) are warped.
The GOOD news is that the body is bowed down in the middle, and the roof is bowed up, so if I glue them together the care will be sort-of-straight.

I'm not sure what kind of glue to use.  No matter what I use, my plan is to
1. apply glue to the mating surfaces of the roof and body, mostly in the middle of the car.
2. Put them together and tie them with wound string until the glue dries.

I only expect to get one shot at this, so I'm looking for suggestions on what glue to try.   
My first thought is Walthers/Hobsco Goo, my second is a medium-thick Cyanacrylate super-glue.

Anyone have experience to share?   Or wild ideas?

I don't quite have the experience that others here do, but my concern with just CA is that if it warps further it will just break the joint and mean you need to glue it again. Goo would probably work a lot better for this but the play inherent to stuff may not give you seam lines that are as nice as something more solid. In either event it would probably help to have a good selection of clamps to hold things true for however long it takes for the chosen glue to cure fully.

[nickelplate759]

I went with medium ACC.  If the joint breaks I can try something else - I've even thought about embedding a nut in the roof and running a bolt up through the floor.
I used twine for my "clamp".   Pictures tomorrow if it works!

[GhengisKong]

If the ACC joint somehow fails, maybe use 5 minute epoxy?

[Angus Shops]

You may be able to remove at least some of the warp. The resin I use softens at a fairly low temperature and I routinely heat warped parts with a hairdryer or by immersion in hot tap water to straighten warped parts. When the part cools it should retain the the new shape. In your case I wouldn’t try to ‘unwarp’ the body (to complex a shape, already decalled, and you would probably introduce a new warp while trying to remove the first. You might be able to get enough warp out of the roof to make a nice joint with the body. I’d use CA; I’ve never had a CA to resin joint come apart even when forcing warped parts together and I’d expect the two resin parts to ‘relax’ into each other for a permanent and stable joint.
Geoff

[nickelplate759]

Thanks for all the suggestions.  IF I had realized the parts were warped before painting I would have tried straightening them.  Since the body sags, there's not much value in trying just to get the roof to match.   We'll know what happened tomorrow....

[peteski]

Thanks for all the suggestions.  IF I had realized the parts were warped before painting I would have tried straightening them.  Since the body sags, there's not much value in trying just to get the roof to match.   We'll know what happened tomorrow....

Test-fitting parts (before painting of course) is a vital part of my model building process.  I do that (sometimes multiple times) to make everything fits correctly. I also do some temporary assembly using either masking tape or even epoxy as temporary adhesive.  Used sparingly 5-minute epoxy does not adhere very strongly to smooth plastic.  This is mainly when I build model automobiles (in various scales, from Z to 1:8 ), but it is a good process for making sure any model kit will go together smoothly and parts will fit.

I also make allowances for the paint thickness (so parts still fit after being painted, then assembled).  Again, on automotive models, but that is something to consider with any model that will include some assembly after painting.  This is all part of the building process and I enjoy dint that as much as the final assembly.

[nickelplate759]

Here's the RPO all tied up while the glue set...


...and here it is afterwards untied.



Seems to have worked!  Now to add the trucks and final details (steps and mail hook).