New modular layout: CPR Philly Waterfront

[jsoflo]

Thanks gentlemen- I went ahead and ordered from YD and they contacted me they are awaiting fulfillment- wow is it hard to find Peco R/H code 55 switches right now...

with progress stalled at track work phase, I went ahead and sprayed the under-surface with Krylon Camo brown, and some of the track. I like the way that came out. I dug out some cork in the area where poor drainage will occur, and have begun experimenting with grout in that area to see how it adheres to cork and looks. I am pleased with it and plan to use it as an underlayment. It looks crappy right now, but this should clean up nicely.

I am awaiting delivery of some grass tufts (winter-dead grass), 6mm high. I plan to alter their lengths by placing some at the bottom of the dig out and filling much of that in with the grout- leaving a small area above ground. I will then add more tufts around the top which will end up longer, so I get grasses of differing heights without buying all different lengths (I don't need much). I then plan to use clear PVA glue in small areas of these depressions to create puddles/ice in low lying area.

I began construction on the plate and pipe steel building, exterior cinder block walls are cut, and the freight door cut out and painted. This is styrene. The cement floor on south side was also cut from styrene. This should be assembled soon. Next I wait on delivery of clear styrene for the 10mm window at the top of the south wall, as well as the 5mm strip styrene (concrete) above that.

I am considering scrapping the Girardi bros. grocer building and having a go at scratch building S&S grocers which was rail served back during my time period on Columbus Ave. Similar concept- if not the same- but a much different and higher building.

Finally, I have been altering the old port building I had on the old layout to this layout.
Be well everyone,
J

[jsoflo]

Attached is a photo of S&S grocers, which was rail served by CPR in the time period I am modeling. Any ideas on where to find the a/c units on that roof or the metal wall vents?

[Hawghead]

J

You've got a kink in the track connecting the two x-over switches on the top left of the layout.  You need to move the upper left one to the right or the lower one to the left to make a straight shot between the switches.

 


Scott

[jsoflo]

Great catch Scott- I see it, and have now corrected it as you described, thanks!

I've started working on my Delaware Valley Pipe and Plate facility- based upon the old Philadelphia Prime Plate facility that was rail served by CP Rail during my modeling era, one rail ran inside the building for interior service. The modeled building is approximately 12" long at the front of the west module.

Attachments 1 and 2 are photos of the building as it looks now. Attachment 3 is CP Rail service of the building circa early 2000's.
J

[jsoflo]

Quick wiring question because all the online tutorials on this particular subject have me more lost than I thought I would be... Using Peco Electrofrog switches.... obviously, the rails out of the frogs must be insulated.... so the question is-

Can I use non insulated metal joiners from the frogs and Dremel cut the rails another 1/8" down after the frogs later to insulate the frogs?

The reason I ask is- for track laying purposes, you get much better connection prior to and during gluing track down via metal non-insulated joiners-- that holds shape better. With the insulated joiners everything has the ability- and tends to- shift a couple mm as things get moved, and I would rather just use a metal joiner- solder it, create a solid connection, glue my track work down, and go back and cut with a Dremel if possible.

I am NOT using any switch machines- its a 6' set of modules- don't feel like there is a need.

Thanks in advance- I hate wiring.
J

I attach wire feeders to track everywhere- to ensure good electrical, so that is not an issue.

[Angus Shops]

Back in my DC cab wiring days I always cut the gaps after laying the track. The plastic insulating joiners never felt solid to me as you suggest, and they tend to be big plastic lumpy things. In some cases I even ballasted the track before cutting the gaps to make sure nothing moved. Worked every time but you still need to take care ensure the cut disc doesn’t snag a rail and take time to let the heat generated by the cutting dissipate so you don’t melt the plastic spikes that hold the rail in place.

[CRL]

I agree w/AS... I don’t care for insulated rail joiners. I typically solder my rail joiners and cut the gaps elsewhere, just short of the clearance point.

[jsoflo]

Thank you gentlemen! It made sense to me that this would be the case, cutting the connection is the same interruption the insulated joiner offered, just wanted to make sure there was nothing else I was not considering DCC wise. Thanks!
J

[wazzou]

If you can cut at a 45 degree angle, the cut is less obtrusive too.

[MDW]

Quick wiring question because all the online tutorials on this particular subject have me more lost than I thought I would be... Using Peco Electrofrog switches.... obviously, the rails out of the frogs must be insulated.... so the question is-

Can I use non insulated metal joiners from the frogs and Dremel cut the rails another 1/8" down after the frogs later to insulate the frogs?

The reason I ask is- for track laying purposes, you get much better connection prior to and during gluing track down via metal non-insulated joiners-- that holds shape better. With the insulated joiners everything has the ability- and tends to- shift a couple mm as things get moved, and I would rather just use a metal joiner- solder it, create a solid connection, glue my track work down, and go back and cut with a Dremel if possible.

100% yes.  I am using a few curved Electrofrogs and it’s so much easier to get nice flowing curves out of the turnout by soldering the rails coming out of the frogs.  My first attempts with insulated joiners were leaving notable kinks that some of my steam locomotives didn’t like.    I isolate the frog by gapping it on the work bench so that I have a better chance of successfully minimizing the gap widths and install with frog juicers.

Michel

[jsoflo]

The track work on the main pair of modules is down- have a bunch of the wiring in, next step is gluing all track down and finishing wiring and then perfecting the track connections with the files and painting it. I snuck in a pair of very small concrete tie sections- going to model it as recently repaired track with old ties discarded nearby, this is an area that was not very well maintained:

[GaryHinshaw]

[Just catching up with a backlog of Eng. threads.]

Welcome back to the fold!  I always enjoyed seeing the updates on your previous pike, and I love the concept your developing here.  Watching again with interest.

[lv4142003]

Interesting area to model. I found these on the internet. I saw the STL&H unit parked just about in the same place everyday, while driving on Delaware Ave near Oregon Ave. The empty lot behind it used to be Publicers Distillery. Made a few extra alarm fires there. After it was demolished the Korean firm that built the new Broad Street subway cars used the lot to store the cars there, waiting for space in their new building on Oregon Ave. to prep the cars for delivery. The EMD switcher is the only EMD switcher ever lettered for the Delaware & Hudson RR that I'm aware of. Would make an interesting piece of motive power. I never saw it down there and don't have a date on the picture, nor who took it.

[jsoflo]

[Just catching up with a backlog of Eng. threads.]

Welcome back to the fold!  I always enjoyed seeing the updates on your previous pike, and I love the concept your developing here.  Watching again with interest.

Thanks Gary! First place I checked in upon return was your layout project!

I have been working a lot on the east end of my new pair of modules, which is the pier. It is now 100% paved and wiring is complete. This will give you the idea of the paving:




I worked from an overhead photo from google maps of the piers along Philadelphia's waterfront, as normally pier 80 IS the entire pier, with dockage on both sides and rail on the south side. I had to re-work that and put rail on the north side with a pier adjacent, keeping the dockage on the south as backdrop. A nearby overhead photo of an unused pier showed me what this would look like

I transition with some "Jersey" barriers on the west side of the module to poorly paved parking style pavement, and anticipate incorporating a pier from the old Philadelphia navy yard that is now used by tug and pilot boat operators. There is a quonset hut storage facility there, and I can fill some dead space by incorporating that scene.

I have been working the pier building itself, and did some color testing on it prior to sanding and finish coloring and then adding doors and details:

[jsoflo]

Here is an overhead shot of the quonset hut and pilot/tug pier at the former Navy yard:



Here is a photo of the pier 74 building I am working to scratch build



And pulled out my 7310 to move a few boxcars around and test electrical (it passed):