Looking to Print a Caboose...

[wm3798]

I guess this is another situation where you can't let perfect get in the way of the good enough.

[peteski]

This is my little quick test. 1"x1" gaps are .010" wide and deep and the boards are only .010" wide.

Chris, please don't use the Rapido meat reefer as a reference!  That is possibly the worst injection-molded N scale wooden reefer ever made (even worse than Bachmann).  Those board gaps are humongous!   

[DKS]

Chris, please don't use the Rapido meat reefer as a reference!  That is possibly the worst injection-molded N scale wooden reefer ever made (even worse than Bachmann).  Those board gaps are humongous!   

Why not? Using the Rapido as reference will make anything look better!

[peteski]

Why not? Using the Rapido as reference will make anything look better!

You have a point.

[GimpLizard]

Well, I ordered the Photo printer. They're saying 20-30 days for delivery.

Dern Covid!!!

[Chris333]

Should have used Amazon.

[GimpLizard]

Should have used Amazon.

Anycubic has it on sale. Got the printer, Wash & Cure, plus resin for $50 less than the printer and W&C without resin at Amazon.

[Chris333]

Ah I see. Printing your caboose body now to see how the windows come out.

[SkipGear]

I've been doing my own tinkering. I'm drawing in MM because it is easier to scale in my head. Boards are 2mm wide, which makes a nice round conversion to 3 1/2 wide in N scale. Grooves are .15mm deep, .2mm wide (roughly .08" wide). This looked visually right to me, relative to what I know the printer can do. Will print a test tomorrow night. It may not be enough but it's worth a try. 

I'm also going to turn down the exposure time a bit. Chris' print looks like it may be over exposed. Going to try 6 sec instead of 8. Can't wait for the new printer and get that down to 1-2 seconds.



Also, caboose decals were done long before micro-scale finally got around to them.

[SkipGear]

A pixel level slice....this may be enough to see the grooves.

[Chris333]

In the last pic you must have anti aliasing turned on, that is those grey pixels.

Test print is done, let me clean it.

[SkipGear]

Yes, just a quick run through the slicer with std. settings to see how things looked.

[Chris333]

The windows are a little thin 


The supports:

[peteski]

How did you remove the supports for the roof from the inside of the shell?

[Chris333]

I just rip them off.

Clean it in dirty used alcohol, clean it in clean alcohol. Blow it off. Rip off the supports. Clean it again in new alcohol. Then finish curing it under UV lights.

HOn30 loco cab: