Colorado Midland in N scale 2.0

[DKS]

Option 1, definitely.

Also... to reduce the tension placed on curved bridge track, instead of bonding the track to the length of the bridge, just tack it in place in one or two small spots. Then, if the track needs to move, it can do so relatively freely.

[davefoxx]

Turnouts have been ordered.  Now...for such a small layout I don't need a box of 30 pieces of flex.  10's cutting it close...15 would be ideal (for screw-ups and such).  I know you "save money" by buying in bulk, but I'm going to keep hunting for a decent price on 15 rather than the big box o' 30.

EDIT:  Also, one of the things I liked about the current version of the CMRy are the appearance of the bridges...using Micro Engineering Bridge Track.  If I went that way again, I guess I could do one of two things...

1)  Use the code 55 bridge track but solder the code 55 rails on the ends to the top of a cushed joiner on the Peco code 55/80 rail.  I dd something similar between the two sections of the Juniata Division, but it was on a straight section, not a curve under tension.

2)  Use Micro Engineering code 70 bridge track and not worry too much about the 0.010" difference in rail height.  Not sure that's the better option either, although maybe with some fiddling I could line things up better.

This is one of those where I'm open to thoughts...I have no pre-determined solution.  If I could disguise the Peco 55 and bridge track somehow (I'm at a loss of ideas for that...but that doesn't mean someone else hasn't nailed it) I would consider doing that too.  These are primarily trestles (steel and wood) so the decks are kind of in-your-face...I want them to look right.

Agreed with the others for Option #1.  But, can't you just file or grind off the double base on the bottom of the Peco Code 55 rail and then use a standard rail joiner, soldered if necessary to keep the curve smooth?

DFF

[Point353]

Turnouts have been ordered.  Now...for such a small layout I don't need a box of 30 pieces of flex.  10's cutting it close...15 would be ideal (for screw-ups and such).  I know you "save money" by buying in bulk, but I'm going to keep hunting for a decent price on 15 rather than the big box o' 30.

EDIT:  Also, one of the things I liked about the current version of the CMRy are the appearance of the bridges...using Micro Engineering Bridge Track.  If I went that way again, I guess I could do one of two things...

1)  Use the code 55 bridge track but solder the code 55 rails on the ends to the top of a cushed joiner on the Peco code 55/80 rail.  I dd something similar between the two sections of the Juniata Division, but it was on a straight section, not a curve under tension.

2)  Use Micro Engineering code 70 bridge track and not worry too much about the 0.010" difference in rail height.  Not sure that's the better option either, although maybe with some fiddling I could line things up better.

This is one of those where I'm open to thoughts...I have no pre-determined solution.  If I could disguise the Peco 55 and bridge track somehow (I'm at a loss of ideas for that...but that doesn't mean someone else hasn't nailed it) I would consider doing that too.  These are primarily trestles (steel and wood) so the decks are kind of in-your-face...I want them to look right.

Sometimes buying a full factory-sealed box of flex-track is better than buying a few loose sections, depending upon how the track is handled and repacked by the retailer. 

The lower base of the Peco 'faux' code 55 rail can be cut or filed off so that you can slip a rail joiner on the remaining (upper) base to mate with actual code 55 track.
While the tops of the railheads will be even, you would need to compensate for the difference in overall height between the two different track pieces with the roadbed or with shims.

[DKS]

But, can't you just file or grind off the double base on the bottom of the Peco Code 55 rail and then use a standard rail joiner, soldered if necessary to keep the curve smooth?

Doh. Shoulda thought of that. Sounds like the best option.

[Dave V]

Wow, thanks for all the inputs!

Yep I can probably grind off the lower web on the Peco rail.  That does require that in a curve I have the rails lined up exactly how I want them to connect at the bridge, but that's not the end of the world.  I can get it all lined up, pin the hell out of it, CA the rails so they don't slide back out of position within the tie bed, mark it, and then grind it with a Dremel.  Easier for the straight bridge but doable in all applications.

Thanks guys!

[wm3798]

Definitely keep the rail heads flush.  I used c70 bridge track on the Retro, figuring what's .010 between friends... well, on a curved approach, you'll have pilot wheels, small flanges, and random freight car trucks all wanting to hop the joint.  Installing the guard rails helped, but filing down the c80 in a taper to meet the c70 was the only universal solution.

To ensure the alignment is good, I would start with soldering the track to the bridge track first, then cut the joint where the Peco meets more Peco.  Aligning the curve at the approach and getting that joint right will be far more complex and mission critical.  That's more or less how I do bridges all the time.  Build the bridge sans track, then solder the track together so the joints at both ends are smooth and solid.  You can estimate how much trim you need to curve the bridge track between the joints.  Then nudge it all into place, and last thing, glue the track to the bridge deck.

Lee

[eric220]

Agreed with the others for Option #1.  But, can't you just file or grind off the double base on the bottom of the Peco Code 55 rail and then use a standard rail joiner, soldered if necessary to keep the curve smooth?

DFF

I did this on the Pennsy for the few pieces of Peco that I used, like the double slip and as a transition between Atlas C55 and C80. Rail nippers will take care of the bulk of the double base, and then a little Dremel grinding will flatten out any remaining flash. Standard rail joiners will work just fine on Peco track so treated.

[Dave V]

That's all great to hear!  Sadly...I'm struggling to find ME bridge track for sale.  I may have to recycle what's on the current Midland of it come to it...which is less than ideal.  The CA glue I used for the guard rails has very likely made the curvature (or lack thereof on the big steel bridge) a permanent feature on those sections of flex track.

It does seem as if availability is the Achilles heel of Micro Engineering.  It's either everywhere or nowhere, often at the same time it seems...

[k27463]

Dave, sent you a PM.

[Dave V]

On the subject of recycling bridge bits I think I could actually just go ahead and reuse the wood truss bridge from the Aspen tail track as the lower bridge in the upper left.



To reuse any of the other bridges or pieces thereof will require some delicate surgery, but the ol' RS Laserkits truss bridge isn't even actually glued in place, so should be an easy kill.



Think while I'm at it I'll tighten up those truss rods.

[DKS]

On the subject of recycling bridge bits I think I could actually just go ahead and reuse the wood truss bridge from the Aspen tail track as the lower bridge in the upper left.

That should work perfectly.

[Hawghead]

Dave,

It'll be fun to watch you build this one, looking forward to it.

Scott

[DKS]

Think while I'm at it I'll tighten up those truss rods.

What are they, brass wire? Recommend removing them and installing steel music wire bent to shape. It'll never sag or warp.

[Point353]

That's all great to hear!  Sadly...I'm struggling to find ME bridge track for sale.

It does seem as if availability is the Achilles heel of Micro Engineering.  It's either everywhere or nowhere, often at the same time it seems...

Walthers lists both the code 55 and the code 70 ME N scale bridge track as in stock, so any shop should be able to get it from them if they don't have it already.
From whom are you trying to order it?
https://www.walthers.com/bridge-flex-track-tm-w-wide-ties-guard-rail-code-55-main-rail-nonweathered-3-91-4cm-section
https://www.walthers.com/bridge-flex-track-tm-w-wide-ties-guard-rail-3-91-4cm-long-section-code-70-main-rail-nonweathered

[Dave V]

What are they, brass wire? Recommend removing them and installing steel music wire bent to shape. It'll never sag or warp.

Yep...  They were nice and tight until I spray-bombed the bridge...apparently during drying, the paint caused:



I have a ton of Berkshire EZ Line I could use too...that'll ensure toight rods:



...while not stressing the wood frame any.