State of the Art switching in N scale?

[Maletrain]

Getting back to switching N scale, I'll start by saying that my experience for N scale is probably much less than previous posters to this thread.  But, I do have 2 suggestions that get back to the question about picks for uncoupling.

I use dental brushes on the ends of the usual wooden cocktail skewers to uncouple.  "Proxabrush Moderate" for HO and "Proxabrush  Tight" for N scale.  I cut the brushes off the Proxabrush rubbery handles and put the brush wire in a (carefully centered) hole on the squared end of the wooden pick.  The other end of the wooden pick has the usual pencil-shaped point.  In use, usually the brush end seems to just be magical in grabbing the couple knuckles and twisting them apart, just by resting the tip of the brush on the top of the couples.  But, occasionally, that just doesn't seem to want to work, no matter how I keep trying to put slack in the couplers.  That is why the pencil tip is on the other end - it can sometimes work (eventually) when the brush tends to fail.

Coupling at crawl speed and getting cars to roll freely enough to run long trains seem to be conflicting goals for N scale modelers.  My solution is to cheat by using the pencil end of the pick to hold the other end of the free-rolling car in place while I couple.  Just stick its point into the ballast with the car end against the pick shaft, and you have "set brakes" on the car.

I also find the "pick brake" trick to be useful when trying to uncouple on a grade that insists on taking the slack out of the couplers.  But, that requires 2 picks or a finger and a pick to keep the cars from stringing out while I am working the knuckles with the brush. Sometimes the wooden point alone will work in this situation if my eyes and the layout situation can let me see the exact point where that pick point needs to be placed.

[dem34]

For a long time I've wondered if it would be practical to deliver power to a locomotive via induction. Mount a series of emitter coils along the underside of the track, and a pickup coil in the loco fuel tank. Wouldn't be practical for a whole layout, but maybe just yards and switching areas.

Something similar to this but in the opposite direction. Example is using big toys though.

Could be an interesting option for the hobby if it could all be made cheaper and miniaturized. Enough switchers had beacon lights that the receivers could be disguised as.

[djconway]

Thanks!   A couple (no pun) of further questions:

 - Any difference for the MT 905 Z couplers?
 - How much effort is there in tuning new cars and keeping them tuned?
 - Does free-rolling metal wheels make much difference (most new cars are like this, but plenty of older ones are not.)
 - Any particular kind of pick (toothpicks, screwdriver, commercial, doesn't matter, ....?)

Ed

in order of the questions -
I do not have too many 905's on rolling stock, but I find that the locos that have them do require a touch more force to couple.
Tuning cars is not a heavy time requirement, I have some cars that I picked up in 1973 when I first got into N-Scale that a 2 minute check and a puff of graphite every few years keeps them operating just fine.  The hardest (longest) time is getting the car on the track the first time. All of the tuning is required if the car does not have body mounted couplers to begin with.  Weight is a major factor in keeping cars on the track and coupling reliably.
I have a mix of wheel types and have seen no difference in operation.  I do however check every truck to make sure that they roll freely, and have found some differences in the axel lengths, make sure you test every axel.
I use a straight dental pick, or a micro brush with the head trimmed off. It needs to be small enough to get between the cars and firm enough to push the couplers apart. I will point out that you do need slack to uncouple (just like the real world).

[Maletrain]

Something similar to this but in the opposite direction. Example is using big toys though.

[video link deleted]

Could be an interesting option for the hobby if it could all be made cheaper and miniaturized. Enough switchers had beacon lights that the receivers could be disguised as.

With that gizmo providing the only power, tunnels would be out of the question. Even going under bridges might stop a train moving at realistic speeds.  And, nobody has mentioned how much that power transmission system will cost.  Large layouts might need several, both for line of sight and to be able to track the many receivers running around the layout simultaneously.  And, he was talking 3 watts.  That is about 0.25 amp at about 12 volts, so maybe one or 2 N scale locos?

[peteski]

With that gizmo providing the only power, tunnels would be out of the question. Even going under bridges might stop a train moving at realistic speeds.  And, nobody has mentioned how much that power transmission system will cost.  Large layouts might need several, both for line of sight and to be able to track the many receivers running around the layout simultaneously.  And, he was talking 3 watts.  That is about 0.25 amp at about 12 volts, so maybe one or 2 N scale locos?

More realistic would be a series of long oval coils placed directly under the ties (to minimize the air gap between the coils in the layout and the model).  Maybe the coils could be incorporated into sectional roadbed track (like Unitrack), to make it modular and easy to install.

[Maletrain]

First, that gizmo on the posted link is a near-infra-red transmitter that actually aims a beam at the individual receivers so that it does not need to flood a whole are with energy, most of which would get absorbed in non-useful things like the floor and couch in an area flood mode.

Second, assuming you mean to put electromagnetic induction coils under the tracks, I am wondering how things like brass locos and such would fare, not to mention the wires connecting the micro-computer decoders to the motors, etc.  We are basically talking about a micro-wave system tuned to something other than water so that it isn't a microwave oven.  But, would it have some "interesting" resonances with other components and wires in our locomotives, etc.? We used to have an induction heater for metals in one lab in college. - it melted steel and some other metals.  It also arced if we messed up.

[jdcolombo]

Thanks!   A couple (no pun) of further questions:

 - Any difference for the MT 905 Z couplers?
 - How much effort is there in tuning new cars and keeping them tuned?
 - Does free-rolling metal wheels make much difference (most new cars are like this, but plenty of older ones are not.)
 - Any particular kind of pick (toothpicks, screwdriver, commercial, doesn't matter, ....?)

Ed

(1) If 905's are mounted properly, they work as well as any other MT coupler.  I have 905's on the front end of my Bachmann Consolidations, and last op session we used those for yard switching with no problems at all.

(2) I don't spend much time "tuning" cars.  If the weight is below 1oz, I add weight to bring it up to 1oz.  Not strictly NMRA standard, but I've found that the 1oz. target just works for me.  I replace wheelsets with Fox Valley brass wheels with the correct axle length.  That's it for tune-up, and once done, I never touch it again, except perhaps to clean the wheels once every couple of years (honest!).

(3) My entire fleet is either MT lo-profile wheels in MT trucks, or Fox Valley wheels in MT trucks.  Both work well, but I'm converting over to Fox Valley for everything; I think the metal wheels may attract a bit less dirt, but I'm not really sure.  Mostly, I just like the looks of the FVM wheels, particularly when painted with an earth/rust color. However, with really free-rolling wheels, it's basically impossible not to move the car a little when coupling on to an engine.  Probably the best I can do is have the car move a couple of mm at coupling.

(4)  I make my own picks out of 1/8" brass rod.  file down about 1/8" of the end of the rod into a thin arrow.  The arrowhead should be pretty sharp so you can easily insert it between the coupler faces and then a slight twist gives you an uncoupling.  My arrowheads are sharp enough that I refer to my picks as "uncoupling weapons" .

John C.

[DKS]

More realistic would be a series of long oval coils placed directly under the ties (to minimize the air gap between the coils in the layout and the model).  Maybe the coils could be incorporated into sectional roadbed track (like Unitrack), to make it modular and easy to install.

That's exactly how I'd envisioned it.

Sorry to hijack this thread--I've started a new one in DCC and electronics.

[ednadolski]

(1) If 905's are mounted properly, they work as well as any other MT coupler.  I have 905's on the front end of my Bachmann Consolidations, and last op session we used those for yard switching with no problems at all.

I've gone thru my parts box and found an small stash of the 905s.   Time to start putting some things together...

Ed

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I feel like the biggest challenge with 905s is when you combine them with other stuff.

If you're all 905s, I bet you'll do fine.

[wazzou]

You'll definitely get closer coupling and be sure to get stronger reading glasses for the uncoupling with a pick operation.   

[ednadolski]

I feel like the biggest challenge with 905s is when you combine them with other stuff.

Looking ahead a bit, I'm wondering how to install them into a Kato diesel... 

Ed

[ednadolski]

You'll definitely get closer coupling and be sure to get stronger reading glasses for the uncoupling with a pick operation. 

I've been on tri-focals for a while now, but I do have the optivisors on stand by

For me I think it would help to tape the pick onto the end of a pen light.

Ed

[Cajonpassfan]

I've gone thru my parts box and found an small stash of the 905s.   Time to start putting some things together...

Ed

Ed, about using 905’s...yes they are quite reliable when mounted correctly, even for switching, especially with manual uncoupling. But, in my experience, there is another consideration that impacts their reliability, and that is grades and curvature. I have a long 2.2% climb (and a shorter 3% descent) with some 18” curves, and when I do experience a break in two, it almost always involves one of the handful 905 equipped cars I own. I think my trackwork is pretty good, as is my coupler mounting. I believe it maybe the stress and friction of pulling a heavy train up a steep grade through tight curves that push the 905’s reliability limits, so much so that I now only use them for specific situations...locomotive pilots, especially steam, cabooses, some passenger cars, and special  “prize” equipment. My freights are 24-30 cars long, and made up mostly of 40 and 50’ cars...
Before I’d attempt a mass conversion, I’d suggest converting a few cars and putting them to a test through whatever operating environment is envisioned.
Just my two cents worth,
Otto

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Looking ahead a bit, I'm wondering how to install them into a Kato diesel... 

Ed

Well, I think it depends on one's sensibilities.

With your sensibilities, I'd say that it'll revolve around a screw into the pilot and filling in the area around the draft gear box, as well as adding an air hose. With a working glad hand and angle cock.