When ya can't tell C70 from C55 ....

[peteski]

I did simply post the link as a snarky reply, but I do love my 30+ year old Mitutoyo dial calipers... Pleasure to use and I can trust them to be consistant and accurate... 

Sure, snarky but helpful too.    And since I believe that Al is a frugal fellow, I posted additional info about very inexpensive calipers (which are still plenty accurate for out hobbies), and read down to 0.0005".

[peteski]

Can we make this "Best Of" ?   

Yeah, "Best Of Rants". 

[Doug G.]

I got the same calipers as the first one Pete pictured for 12 bucks almost ten years ago at Radio Shack. The first pair wouldn't zero after extending the jaws and closing them again so RS replaced them, no questions, and this pair has been great since.

I have used them many times and I would say I have gotten my money's worth.

Doug

[peteski]

I got the same calipers as the first one Pete pictured for 12 bucks almost ten years ago at Radio Shack. The first pair wouldn't zero after extending the jaws and closing them again so RS replaced them, no questions, and this pair has been great since.

I have used them many times and I would say I have gotten my money's worth.

Doug

Yes, when I got mine (years ago) I'm fairly certain I got them for $9.95 (Harbor Freight was running a "special" on them). They have paid for themselves many times over. 

[OldEastRR]

Am I a better ranter than Peteski? That's a high bar to clear ...

Offer still open, $5 for a code 70 ME RH...plus shipping

[DKS]

   

[bbussey]

Am I a better ranter than Peteski? That's a high bar to clear ...

So, to summarize:

- You started by erroneously accusing the manufacturer of changing the specs of the product.
- You subsequently discovered you ordered the wrong part.
- You still insist you ordered the correct part because you incorrectly use the web and/or base width as the indicator of track code size and somehow didn’t notice a 0.015” height difference.
- You continue to rant about it, after it’s obvious that it is all due to your error.
- You mistakenly believe that continuing to push this issue is somehow amusing.

[DKS]

Am I a better ranter than Peteski? That's a high bar to clear ...

...which you've cleared by a mile. At least when @peteski rants, he has his facts straight.

[thomasjmdavis]

Yes, when I got mine (years ago) I'm fairly certain I got them for $9.95 (Harbor Freight was running a "special" on them). They have paid for themselves many times over. 

Mine came from another tool importer- something like $12, there was a shipping charge, but I ordered some other stuff at the same time, so maybe another buck or two.  Agree that this is a tool that pays for itself very quickly.  I bought mine when my modeling skills went from "why would anybody bother with one of those" to "how did I ever get along without a digital caliper???"  I think it probably paid for itself the day that I fumbled my drill index, and all the #60 and smaller drills fell out.  Only took about a minute to get that all sorted out.

My only wish is that someone would come up with a recharge-able battery for these things.  I am sure I have spent more on batteries than the cost of the caliper.

[davefoxx]

Am I a better ranter than Peteski? That's a high bar to clear ...

Offer still open, $5 for a code 70 ME RH...plus shipping

You could try to apply rail joiners to the Code 70 turnout, crimp the exposed portions of the joiners flat, and solder Code 55 rails to the joiners, making sure to get the running surface of the rails straight and flat.  I've done this to transition between Codes 40 and 55 in N scale and Codes 83 and 100 in HO scale, and it works great.  At a minimum, this would get trains running until you can find a Code 55 turnout.

DFF

[peteski]

...which you've cleared by a mile. At least when @peteski rants, he has his facts straight.

That's right!   
And for some strange reason I still find this thread amusing (in an eye-roll sort of a way).

[peteski]

My only wish is that someone would come up with a recharge-able battery for these things (digital calipers).  I am sure I have spent more on batteries than the cost of the caliper.

True.  The battery in mine lasts about a year. But on a positive note, they use a very popular battery that can be easily purchased in  dollar store (assorted batteries variety blister pack for a dollar).  Getting them at a supermarket or a specialized battery store is way too expensive.  But those dollar store batteries are kind of crappy. What I started doing now is to buy them in quantity from Digikey (when I order other electronic components). Usually 10 at a time (lots fo gadgets use those batteries). They are fresh, brand name, and prime quality.  To prolong their storage life, I store them in one of the bottom drawers of my fridge (they do not take up much room).

[wazzou]

I always remove the battery from mine when not in use. 
It's pretty easy to slide the little door back and forth and install or remove the battery. 
I generally leave the door off during use and re-install it after removing the battery.
It may be a little tedious, but it greatly improves battery life.

The reality is...it's no more tedious than any of the things it's being used for anyway.

[Dave V]

After reading through this thread I asked myself "can I add value to this discussion in some way?"  You'll be happy to know that I concluded that no...no I can't.   

[chicken45]

Can somehow, this whole thing be a banner image?