Weekend Update 6/21/20

[DKS]

With so little left to do on the trestle, I wrapped it up this morning.

[OldEastRR]

I'm trying to decal-bash NKP composite hoppers using the Micro-Trains car.

Looks like you could duplicate the NKP car better by removing the end-most vertical rib at each end of the MTL car. Then add a thin narrow strip of styrene (or paper) to duplicate that angled flat brace in each upper corner of the sides. Plus a vertical brakewheel (like on the Atlas 40' wooden boxes) and you'd get the look more accurately.

jdcolombo has been having the NKPHTS print up decals in sizes different from the MS ones, he might be able to fix you up. Maybe he can get MTL to make unlettered black-painted hoppers and he gets somebody to make the correct decals, like he's been doing with MTL passenger cars.

[nickelplate759]

I agree that the car could be a closer match.  I thought about removing that brace, but that doesn't really go far enough.  One big problem is that the NKP cars were taller, and maybe shorter - so even correctly sized lettering will look a little cramped.

undec cars aren't an issue - I just stripped and painted some factory painted Micro-Trains cars.

[Maletrain]

Interesting that that the prototype cars had only 7 wide boards on the side, while the MTL models have 10 of smaller width. (Easier counting boards than rivets  ) Really didn't notice until posters started talking about letter height, and then I saw that the prototype has its large letters painted on individual boards, not spanning cracks.  That tends to change the "look", compared to the model.  But, it's something that would be hard to change without scratch building new sides.  So, it is a matter of what is good enough for the intended situation.  For runners, they look great and probably only the modeler who made them will ever notice the compromise. 

[Nick Lorusso]

Finally finished my GP40. And starting 3 24”x48” Free-moN modules.

[craigolio1]

Finally finished my GP40. And starting 3 24”x48” Free-moN modules.

Fantastic model!!

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Yesterday was flat car load day.

I made up a bunch of steel plate loads. I'm not 100% happy, but they're much better than nothing!

I hope this one makes @davefoxx happy. I know he loved this car.

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They still need some dunnage and strapping, but I'm working on figuring out how best to do the strapping so they're removable.

[DKS]

...I'm working on figuring out how best to do the strapping so they're removable.

Good luck with that...

[dnhouston]

Made a little more progress with the deck truss bridge.  Got all the vertical and horizontal tension rods installed.  Next up is all the vertical and horizontal diagonal braces.

[nickelplate759]

I'm trying to decal-bash NKP composite hoppers using the Micro-Trains car....

Here is the current state of both attempts, differences are the NYC&St.L lettering, the NKP marks, and the positions of the words in herald (NKP used both positions).  I've carefully chosen car numbers for which I cannot find photos so I can't be certain they are wrong.


I'm still hoping that if I work hard enough Bluford Shops will do these cars 

[davefoxx]

I hope this one makes @davefoxx happy. I know he loved this car

Yes, I did!  That B&O bulkhead flat is a great model, and I'm glad to see it earning some revenue.

DFF

[nkalanaga]

For tiedowns and dunnage for those steel plates, what I would probably do first is add boards under the plates.  Then tie the plates themselves together, a couple straps around each stack will do.  Finally, add some blocking to the ends of the "risers", and at the ends of the stacks, to keep the plates from sliding.  They're not going to bounce off, so keeping them from sliding is enough, and all of the wood can be "nailed" to the deck.

Actually, it's all glued to the plates, so the entire assembly comes off.  That would also allow the same loads to be used on any flatcar.

[Jim Starbuck]

Yesterday was flat car load day.
They still need some dunnage and strapping, but I'm working on figuring out how best to do the strapping so they're removable.

For strapping over the stack could you use flat brass wire?
It could be bent over the edge of the stack and down to the stake pockets on the car then a short tab bent vertically down to poke into the pocket.
Glued to the load the whole thing could be lifted off in one piece. The wire would stay straight depicting tension from the edge of the stack down to the stake pockets.
Just a thought.

Jim

[TimF]

Yesterday was flat car load day.

I made up a bunch of steel plate loads. I'm not 100% happy, but they're much better than nothing!

I hope this one makes @davefoxx happy. I know he loved this car.

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They still need some dunnage and strapping, but I'm working on figuring out how best to do the strapping so they're removable.

Try neodym magnets under the car and load (very,very thin magnets...) and brass wire for strapping

[John]

Loving my Photon .. continue to print common things I need lots of -- signal shacks, jersey barriers, guard rails ..