FVM SD70ACe Loksound Install

[Super_G]

Has anyone installed Loksound in a FVM SD70ACe? I know someone on the forum has done an install on the FVM GEVO using the Loksound Micro Direct, but I haven't seen anyone installing anything on the SD70ACe.

[kscessandriver]

I did a FVM SD70ACe with a Zimo MX649N sound decoder recently. It fit in nicely, but at somepoint I'd probably try a ESU sound decoder as well.

Which LokSound decoder are you looking at for it? A Select board replacement or a 6 pin NEM651 LokSound V5?

[Super_G]

I did a FVM SD70ACe with a Zimo MX649N sound decoder recently. It fit in nicely, but at somepoint I'd probably try a ESU sound decoder as well.

Which LokSound decoder are you looking at for it? A Select board replacement or a 6 pin NEM651 LokSound V5?

I was thinking either using the 6 pin decoder if it would fit, or the hard wire decoder they have. I know that using the 6 pin would require me to mill out the tank portion on the underside of the mechanism frames to fit a speaker on the locomotive. If that wouldn't work, I was thinking about using the hard wire decoder and doing what jdcolombo did with his GEVO here: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=31587.0

That's if the frames are the same, or similar enough. For sound egress, I was thinking along the same lines as John was, but using the trainworx SD70M-2 detail kit to detail the fans and add "sound holes" there. Also, I would like to stay with ESU due to standardization and that they have more sound files that are applicable for the era that I am modeling, i.e. early 2000's to present.

[kscessandriver]

I was thinking either using the 6 pin decoder if it would fit, or the hard wire decoder they have. I know that using the 6 pin would require me to mill out the tank portion on the underside of the mechanism frames to fit a speaker on the locomotive. If that wouldn't work, I was thinking about using the hard wire decoder and doing what jdcolombo did with his GEVO here: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=31587.0

That's if the frames are the same, or similar enough. For sound egress, I was thinking along the same lines as John was, but using the trainworx SD70M-2 detail kit to detail the fans and add "sound holes" there. Also, I would like to stay with ESU due to standardization and that they have more sound files that are applicable for the era that I am modeling, i.e. early 2000's to present.

I'm not sure how the Zimo MX649N compares to the LokSound V5 NEM651 in terms of size, but I'll say this. I decided not to modify the frame at all to fit a speaker in, which turned out to work. I decided to give up the light pipes for the rear ditch lights on my model, and put a Streamlined Backshop 8x12mm sugar cube with the Long Boiler Baffle in. I put it vertically underneath the rear fan. It fit snugly, but required no frame modifcation. Something to consider

[Steveruger45]

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Here is a photo from Spookshows site of this frame.
It looks like the OEM dc board has a removable sister board at the back under the board like their GP60 does.  This would take a lokpilot six pin easily.  That won’t give any sound though.

It looks to me that a 73100 Loksound select direct micro would fit with little or no frame mods. Might have to remove the the frames rear board sockets and I would probably do that so I could slant the decoder up a little at the back. Then a speaker in a suitably low but long enclosure would fit underneath at the rear.

For a Loksound micro 5dcc more clearance measurements would be needed. If enough width and height could be gained ahead or over the motor that would be a place to put the decoder but I would still go for a speaker at the rear.
I wouldn’t drill sound holes in the shell, ive found they don’t help much if at all and in some cases it sounds better without them once the shell is fitted.

Another option is put the decoder in the tank.  I’ve done that with the older and longer version 4 in a Kato sd45.  That one is in the loksound install thread.

[kscessandriver]

(Attachment Link)

Here is a photo from Spookshows site of this frame.
It looks like the OEM dc board has a removable sister board at the back under the board like their GP60 does.  This would take a lokpilot six pin easily.  That won’t give any sound though.

It looks to me that a 73100 Loksound select direct micro would fit with little or no frame mods. Might have to remove the the frames rear board sockets and I would probably do that so I could slant the decoder up a little at the back. Then a speaker in a suitably low but long enclosure would fit underneath at the rear.

For a Loksound micro 5dcc more clearance measurements would be needed. If enough width and height could be gained ahead or over the motor that would be a place to put the decoder but I would still go for a speaker at the rear.
I wouldn’t drill sound holes in the shell, ive found they don’t help much if at all and in some cases it sounds better without them once the shell is fitted.

Another option is put the decoder in the tank.  I’ve done that with the older and longer version 4 in a Kato sd45.  That one is in the loksound install thread.

That is correct, about the 6 pin NEM651 socket. You could certainly use a 6 pin sound decoder in the install as well, I'm just not familiar with the size of the LokSound V5 Micro NEM651, to know if it would fit without too much effort.

[Steveruger45]

That is correct, about the 6 pin NEM651 socket. You could certainly use a 6 pin sound decoder in the install as well, I'm just not familiar with the size of the LokSound V5 Micro NEM651, to know if it would fit without too much effort.

The issue with the lok5 dcc micro is that the six pin plug is not part of the decoder. It’s an adaptor with the six pin at one end and a next 18 at the other (that plugs into the top of the decoder) and a length of film-cable between them.  I’m not saying it couldn’t fit but it would take all the space or so much of it over the rear truck there would be no room for a speaker there.

[kscessandriver]

The issue with the lok5 dcc micro is that the six pin plug is not part of the decoder. It’s an adaptor with the six pin at one end and a next 18 at the other (that plugs into the top of the decoder) and a length of film-cable between them.  I’m not saying it couldn’t fit but it would take all the space or so much of it over the rear truck there would be no room for a speaker there.

Ah ok, that makes sense, and is a shame. The Zimo NEM651 is just a plug in 6 pin, no ribbon cable or anything. I bet you could do the same thing I did, which was to remove the rear ditch lights piping, and squeeze the speaker into that area. Maybe I'll try it at some point.

[Super_G]

Ah ok, that makes sense, and is a shame. The Zimo NEM651 is just a plug in 6 pin, no ribbon cable or anything. I bet you could do the same thing I did, which was to remove the rear ditch lights piping, and squeeze the speaker into that area. Maybe I'll try it at some point.

I had forgot that ESU used the ribbon cable adaptor thingy for their 6 pin decoders.  I would go with the 73100, but the solder pads are so fine for the aux LEDs that I fear I might damage the decoder in the process of adding different LEDs for the front and rear ditch lights. Kinda thinking the hardwire method might be the best...

[Steveruger45]

I had forgot that ESU used the ribbon cable adaptor thingy for their 6 pin decoders.  I would go with the 73100, but the solder pads are so fine for the aux LEDs that I fear I might damage the decoder in the process of adding different LEDs for the front and rear ditch lights. Kinda thinking the hardwire method might be the best...

You do need a very fine soldering tip.  I’ve never damaged any myself though.  If you’re worried about soldering leds or wires for leds to those small tabs, take a look at the 73199 Loksound micro select direct instead. The leds are all on the decoder already. Whether they would be close enough to the lights lenses though may be an issue but that might be overcome too.

[Super_G]

I wouldn’t drill sound holes in the shell, ive found they don’t help much if at all and in some cases it sounds better without them once the shell is fitted.

Does that help reduce the high range of the small speakers and mellow them out some?

[Steveruger45]

Does that help reduce the high range of the small speakers and mellow them out some?

Essentially yes.
Getting the appropriate cubic capacity of the enclosure to the speaker is the most critical though.
YMMV, but I have found to my ear at least on the last 50 sound installs I’ve done that 500mm3 for the 8x12mm speakers and 750-800mm3 for the 9x16mm speakers is the minimum/optimal enclosure volume you should aim for.
If you mount the speaker in an enclosure with diaphragm up with the solid back of the speaker inside the enclosure that doesn’t actually affect (that is reduce) the “effective” volume as far as the speaker is concerned.
But mounting the speaker back side up does reduce the enclosure volume you can make in the same given space dimensions.
I’ve done installs with speakers “right side up”and “wrong side up” (there isn’t an audible right and wrong side btw, just my expression).  It’s easier wrong side up to solder on the speaker wires and if you can still have enough room to get the enclosure volume, measured from the diaphragm to the back inside of the enclosure then that’s ok.  I’ve tried bigger enclosures than the stated optimal / minimal when I had the space and it didn’t very noticeably improve the sound especially once you get over 1000mm3 for the noted speakers.